Rusty Lift with a clevis lift

sidewayskj · **Posted:** Thu Nov 09, 2006 1:25 am

I have been reading postings on lifts and balljoints. If I were to go with a rusty's lift (which I am planning on) and did the clevis lift, would I still need to think about a set of Al arms to take the strain off the upper ball joints, or is that just something that you only look at if your are purchasing a frankinlift. Thanks for the time and the LOST crew gives a huge amount of information out.

kolesy · **Posted:** Thu Nov 09, 2006 6:44 am

I run th erusty's coil lift and did a clevis lift, but i also have their upper strut plate. Thta combination definitley gave me the upper ball joint contact. I threw on some of al's a-arms and problem solved. You MAY be safe with just a lil clevis lift but don't do it an dbe mad at me. If you are unsure do the clevis lift and inspect it afterwards before you go wheelin around. Just do it and jack up the front from the crossmember and when the wheels are at full droop, inpsect. If you have contact get rid of the clevis. The lift alone will be just fine to avoid contact.

Eddo · **Joined:** Thu Jul 07, 2005 7:01 pm **Posts:** 1214

I've done it on 3 Jeeps so far and you can get away with about 1/2" of clevis lift on Rusty's before you get upper ball joint contact. Do what kolesy suggested. Add about 1/2" and inspect it.

Also if you do get contact, it is not the end of the world. You can fabricate up some bump stop in the mean time till you get new a-arms if you want. For example, all Frankenlifts would have upper ball joint contact problems if it where not for the bumpstop.

Science_Guy · **Posted:** Thu Nov 09, 2006 10:59 am

I run a Rusty Coil lift with a clevis lift. I have about 1/8 in gap (perfect IMO) and do not have to worry about adding a bumpstop. I will prob add an upper strut plate spacer later if I notice any droop or sag. This combination, with a spring isolator lift in the back as well, is by far the best lift for the $ available right now.

LIBAR8R · **Posted:** Thu Nov 09, 2006 12:23 pm

Science_Guy wrote:

I run a Rusty Coil lift with a clevis lift. I have about 1/8 in gap (perfect IMO) and do not have to worry about adding a bumpstop. I will prob add an upper strut plate spacer later if I notice any droop or sag. This combination, with a spring isolator lift in the back as well, is by far the best lift for the $ available right now.

Really noob question here but what's a clevis lift?

Science_Guy · **Posted:** Thu Nov 09, 2006 12:52 pm

There are several articles about this like the step by step instructions here.

In short, you leave some space between the strut higher in the clevis.

LIBAR8R · **Posted:** Thu Nov 09, 2006 1:15 pm

Science_Guy wrote:

There are several articles about this like the step by step instructions here.

In short, you leave some space between the strut higher in the clevis.

So I'm familiar with motorcycle's and high end mountain bike suspension, is this like adjusting the shock collar?

jelohead · **Posted:** Thu Nov 09, 2006 4:32 pm

not at all. the clevis is the collar that the bottom of the strut sits in. the conduit lock-nuts that you see are there only to maintain the new spacing once the clevis is loosened and the strut is raised up a tad. there are no threads , the lock-nuts do not serve any kind of threading purpose. by raising up the strut assembly, you effectively lengthen the entire strut. sound right guys?

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Thu Nov 09, 2006 4:39 pm

LIBAR8R wrote:

Science_Guy wrote:

There are several articles about this like the step by step instructions here.

In short, you leave some space between the strut higher in the clevis.

So I'm familiar with motorcycle's and high end mountain bike suspension, is this like adjusting the shock collar?

Haha, like jelohead said, its kinda the same concept, just no threads. The clevis is just pulled out of the forks and some conduits washers are added so it doesnt slide back down into the fork. Some people dont use the washers and it seems to work out fine. The washers are there "just incase."

kolesy · **Posted:** Thu Nov 09, 2006 4:51 pm

Quote:

In short, you leave some space between the strut higher in the clevis.

Haha, like jelohead said, its kinda the same concept, just no threads. The clevis is just pulled out of the forks and some conduits washers are added so it doesnt slide back down into the fork. Some people dont use the washers and it seems to work out fine. The washers are there "just incase."

No spacers/washers and I'm fine. 10,000 miles on it so far.

fortx4 KJ · **Posted:** Thu Nov 09, 2006 11:51 pm

where do i get the conduit washers at and how much are they?

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Fri Nov 10, 2006 12:07 am

Lowes, Home Depot, etc. $1 or so each

sidewayskj · **Posted:** Fri Nov 10, 2006 12:43 am

thanks for the info on the rusty's lift it is the lift I am looking at and don't want the joy of changing out ball joints all the time (enjoy my free time from family don't need to spend it on the jeep every day). The information is usefull and clear up something I wasn't to sure about. thanks for your time.

Video Guy · **Posted:** Thu Nov 30, 2006 4:34 pm

MOD: Think this could be made a sticky thread in the FAQ section?

Great info here. Thanks for sharing, everyone.

Science_Guy · **Posted:** Thu Nov 30, 2006 5:30 pm

I was going to do a write up on my Rusty lift which included a clevis lift (front) and a spring isolator lift (rear). I was going to post it after I have at least one more off road trip and some more miles under my belt.

Rusty Lift with a clevis lift

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