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 Post subject: New Superlift 4/1/07
PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 2:33 pm 
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I just talked to Michael Correro from Superlift suspensions, I know him from my past show truck. He said that the new Superlift for the liberty will be out in April 07, hopfully in time for moab.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 2:38 pm 
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Cool. Did he give you any specs on it?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 2:55 pm 
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I'll check with him right now on the specs...


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 3:37 pm 
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I imagine it will be much like the 4 inch GC and Commander lift. Saw one the other day on a GC, Looks like a lot of modifying and welding under the rig was necessary. Looks like a new belly pan and cross member, relocation of differential/front driveshaft, new steering knuckles on the front end. Didn't have time to look at the back.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 3:44 pm 
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Yeah! Specs! Will it be an off-road lift or a show lift? Height? Tested for issues? Expected price?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 3:58 pm 
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4/1/2007?

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 4:00 pm 
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dirtykj wrote:
4/1/2007?


I agree.... :twisted: :roll:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 4:16 pm 
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spoonplugger1 wrote:
I imagine it will be much like the 4 inch GC and Commander lift. Saw one the other day on a GC, Looks like a lot of modifying and welding under the rig was necessary. Looks like a new belly pan and cross member, relocation of differential/front driveshaft, new steering knuckles on the front end. Didn't have time to look at the back.



all of the IFS lifts over 2-2.5" maby 3" will require droping the front diff
and all that kind of stuff most are bolt on
I had a ranger with the 4" super lift and can tell you it waas a royal PITA to put on took a good shop almost 2 days to do

also remember that when you drop the front diff you give up groud clearance that would be gained if you dont
I would bet that with this lift the CV joints stay at stock angle so the only gain would come from tires
I would bet with a 4" lift you may squeez 33's on it but you would only gain 1.5" over stock hight under the front diff
in the end an OME lift with 245/75 would have the same clearance under the front diff
That is what happened with my ranger I still had to crank the torsion bars to the max to gain 3/4-1" under the front diff


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 4:51 pm 
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But your approach, departure and breakover angles would be much improved. Even with a str8 axle the center differential only gets more clearance from the tires. The cradle drop will allow you more wheel travel up front (especially droop) with better CV angles. Running 33's will still be sketchy with the small wheelwell openings and front aluminum diff.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 6:16 pm 
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DarbyWalters wrote:
But your approach, departure and breakover angles would be much improved. Even with a str8 axle the center differential only gets more clearance from the tires. The cradle drop will allow you more wheel travel up front (especially droop) with better CV angles. Running 33's will still be sketchy with the small wheelwell openings and front aluminum diff.


not as much as you would think on wheel travel
With longer struts bigger tires you need bigger bump stops wich negates the gained up travel
and the same goes for the rear
and to the center diff clearance it mkes the ifs good that with a 2" lift you get 2" under your diff
Trust me I have had an IFS truck with a 4" lift and all you gain is bigger tires and a ton of head aches nothing else
after you put on bigger tires what will you do for gears? 4.10 just won't cut it with 33's I dont like 3.73's with 30's
IMO with 33's you need 4.56 min if not 4.88 then of corse the old alum. front diff problem


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 Post subject: CRD
PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 6:42 pm 
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Is this gasser only or are they developing CRD model? It looks like the King springs for me, so far. I don't consider the spacer lifts out there acceptable.


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 Post subject: Re: CRD
PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 11:58 pm 
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Pablo wrote:
It looks like the King springs for me, so far. I don't consider the spacer lifts out there acceptable.


well said, I agree. If you can afford a KJ, you can afford to lift it properly.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2006 11:23 am 
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jason thompson wrote:
DarbyWalters wrote:
But your approach, departure and breakover angles would be much improved. Even with a str8 axle the center differential only gets more clearance from the tires. The cradle drop will allow you more wheel travel up front (especially droop) with better CV angles. Running 33's will still be sketchy with the small wheelwell openings and front aluminum diff.


not as much as you would think on wheel travel
With longer struts bigger tires you need bigger bump stops wich negates the gained up travel
and the same goes for the rear
and to the center diff clearance it mkes the ifs good that with a 2" lift you get 2" under your diff
Trust me I have had an IFS truck with a 4" lift and all you gain is bigger tires and a ton of head aches nothing else
after you put on bigger tires what will you do for gears? 4.10 just won't cut it with 33's I dont like 3.73's with 30's
IMO with 33's you need 4.56 min if not 4.88 then of corse the old alum. front diff problem


You can gain some wheel travel...I did not say how much...compared to current lifts that the UBJ contacts the Strut assembly

The cradle drop will add no extra clearance for the front diff but will help everything else EVEN without bigger tires.

The gains are better CVJoint angles, departure-approah-breakover angles

Already stated that 33's are risky so the tire issue is mute but with the automatic and 4.10s you would have plenty or gear ratio especially with a CRD

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2006 2:29 pm 
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It's going to be a 5" kit, that's all he knows.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2006 3:37 pm 
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DarbyWalters wrote:
jason thompson wrote:
DarbyWalters wrote:
But your approach, departure and breakover angles would be much improved. Even with a str8 axle the center differential only gets more clearance from the tires. The cradle drop will allow you more wheel travel up front (especially droop) with better CV angles. Running 33's will still be sketchy with the small wheelwell openings and front aluminum diff.


not as much as you would think on wheel travel
With longer struts bigger tires you need bigger bump stops wich negates the gained up travel
and the same goes for the rear
and to the center diff clearance it mkes the ifs good that with a 2" lift you get 2" under your diff
Trust me I have had an IFS truck with a 4" lift and all you gain is bigger tires and a ton of head aches nothing else
after you put on bigger tires what will you do for gears? 4.10 just won't cut it with 33's I dont like 3.73's with 30's
IMO with 33's you need 4.56 min if not 4.88 then of corse the old alum. front diff problem


You can gain some wheel travel...I did not say how much...compared to current lifts that the UBJ contacts the Strut assembly

The cradle drop will add no extra clearance for the front diff but will help everything else EVEN without bigger tires.

The gains are better CVJoint angles, departure-approah-breakover angles

Already stated that 33's are risky so the tire issue is mute but with the automatic and 4.10s you would have plenty or gear ratio especially with a CRD




Try telling that to my brother
33's and 4.10 on the first gear swap on a YJ with 4.0
latter he had to do a second swap to 4.56 due to lack of gear and is now looking at 4.88
most guys run 4.56's with 33's it's like a magic number but I am sure that if you dont mind 2 miles to the gallon on gas the 4.10 are fine
for mud and flat ground then 4.10 is ok but any thing else it will not be
if it were then why would they put 4.10's in a rubi with 31's? and they have a 4-1 low range
but hey what do I know?


also the CRD thought I would say maby but guys that are running LS1 V8's and auto's with 36's still run 4.88's and 5.13's or lower
and that V8 is stronger than a CRD hands down


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 Post subject: Superlift
PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2006 10:06 pm 
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I wouldn't hold my breath! Joe :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 5:53 am 
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How long until someone comes out and says it...


APRIL FOOLS!!!!!!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 10:11 am 
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jason thompson wrote:
DarbyWalters wrote:
jason thompson wrote:
DarbyWalters wrote:
But your approach, departure and breakover angles would be much improved. Even with a str8 axle the center differential only gets more clearance from the tires. The cradle drop will allow you more wheel travel up front (especially droop) with better CV angles. Running 33's will still be sketchy with the small wheelwell openings and front aluminum diff.


not as much as you would think on wheel travel
With longer struts bigger tires you need bigger bump stops wich negates the gained up travel
and the same goes for the rear
and to the center diff clearance it mkes the ifs good that with a 2" lift you get 2" under your diff
Trust me I have had an IFS truck with a 4" lift and all you gain is bigger tires and a ton of head aches nothing else
after you put on bigger tires what will you do for gears? 4.10 just won't cut it with 33's I dont like 3.73's with 30's
IMO with 33's you need 4.56 min if not 4.88 then of corse the old alum. front diff problem


You can gain some wheel travel...I did not say how much...compared to current lifts that the UBJ contacts the Strut assembly

The cradle drop will add no extra clearance for the front diff but will help everything else EVEN without bigger tires.

The gains are better CVJoint angles, departure-approah-breakover angles

Already stated that 33's are risky so the tire issue is mute but with the automatic and 4.10s you would have plenty or gear ratio especially with a CRD




Try telling that to my brother
33's and 4.10 on the first gear swap on a YJ with 4.0
latter he had to do a second swap to 4.56 due to lack of gear and is now looking at 4.88
most guys run 4.56's with 33's it's like a magic number but I am sure that if you dont mind 2 miles to the gallon on gas the 4.10 are fine
for mud and flat ground then 4.10 is ok but any thing else it will not be
if it were then why would they put 4.10's in a rubi with 31's? and they have a 4-1 low range
but hey what do I know?


also the CRD thought I would say maby but guys that are running LS1 V8's and auto's with 36's still run 4.88's and 5.13's or lower
and that V8 is stronger than a CRD hands down


You always seem to think any difference of opinion with your views is an attack on you...It isn't, it is just another opnion!

KJs with automatics and 32's run fine with the transfercase in 4LO and stock gearing. Since 4.10's are the only R&P that fir the KJs front diff right now, that is the only solution for the time being. Sure the Rubicon has different gears...we don't, those are just the facts. This is about working with what we have, not with what a Wrangler, Toyota, ect have. The main point is that extra lift even with an IFS has advantages in many areas.

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Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 1:04 pm 
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DarbyWalters wrote:
jason thompson wrote:
DarbyWalters wrote:
jason thompson wrote:
DarbyWalters wrote:
But your approach, departure and breakover angles would be much improved. Even with a str8 axle the center differential only gets more clearance from the tires. The cradle drop will allow you more wheel travel up front (especially droop) with better CV angles. Running 33's will still be sketchy with the small wheelwell openings and front aluminum diff.


not as much as you would think on wheel travel
With longer struts bigger tires you need bigger bump stops wich negates the gained up travel
and the same goes for the rear
and to the center diff clearance it mkes the ifs good that with a 2" lift you get 2" under your diff
Trust me I have had an IFS truck with a 4" lift and all you gain is bigger tires and a ton of head aches nothing else
after you put on bigger tires what will you do for gears? 4.10 just won't cut it with 33's I dont like 3.73's with 30's
IMO with 33's you need 4.56 min if not 4.88 then of corse the old alum. front diff problem


You can gain some wheel travel...I did not say how much...compared to current lifts that the UBJ contacts the Strut assembly

The cradle drop will add no extra clearance for the front diff but will help everything else EVEN without bigger tires.

The gains are better CVJoint angles, departure-approah-breakover angles

Already stated that 33's are risky so the tire issue is mute but with the automatic and 4.10s you would have plenty or gear ratio especially with a CRD




Try telling that to my brother
33's and 4.10 on the first gear swap on a YJ with 4.0
latter he had to do a second swap to 4.56 due to lack of gear and is now looking at 4.88
most guys run 4.56's with 33's it's like a magic number but I am sure that if you dont mind 2 miles to the gallon on gas the 4.10 are fine
for mud and flat ground then 4.10 is ok but any thing else it will not be
if it were then why would they put 4.10's in a rubi with 31's? and they have a 4-1 low range
but hey what do I know?


also the CRD thought I would say maby but guys that are running LS1 V8's and auto's with 36's still run 4.88's and 5.13's or lower
and that V8 is stronger than a CRD hands down


You always seem to think any difference of opinion with your views is an attack on you...It isn't, it is just another opnion!

KJs with automatics and 32's run fine with the transfercase in 4LO and stock gearing. Since 4.10's are the only R&P that fir the KJs front diff right now, that is the only solution for the time being. Sure the Rubicon has different gears...we don't, those are just the facts. This is about working with what we have, not with what a Wrangler, Toyota, ect have. The main point is that extra lift even with an IFS has advantages in many areas.



Gear swaps and larger tires are like hydrogen and oxygen you need both to make water
it is not as much an opinion as it is experance I have been there made that mistake
I also know that guys with very low gears and 33's on a Dana35 locked seem to not break it but guys with stock gears swap shafts like crazy
just what I know not an opinion
do what you want but in the end it will only cost more I am just sharing what I KNOW


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 3:38 pm 
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Personally, I think it would be a great improvement over the standard coil lifts like my Rusty's kit. I LOVE the ride of my kit but I absolutely HATE the fact that it has very little upward travel, resulting in a nice and loud bang when you top out the shocks. The problem is, you get more lift but no more travel and all of your travel moves to the downward direction. I used to bottom out the front all the time with the stock springs but never do it now, but then I never topped out the shocks with the stock springs and it happens EVERY time I wheel now.

So, if you had a kit that moved the diff down and maintained a range of wheel travel that was more balanced, it would be a vast improvement as long as the ride quality was good. I don't know if I would swap kits right now but if I were starting from scratch, I would probalby save my cash for the full kit.

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