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 Post subject: Firewall penetration options?
PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2006 2:19 pm 
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Does anyone know anywhere to get through the firewall besides here....

http://home.comcast.net/~corwyyn/firewa ... ation.html


That hole is being used to run a piece of 0 gauge and has absolutely no room left to get the power wire from switch/relay to the fog lights I want to install.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2006 2:59 pm 
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Up behind the glove box on the passenger side is an identical opening:
Image
Don't know if you're wires are long enough to go thru that one but its there. Worst case scenario, you push them thru the boot around the main wiring harness like a lot of other people have done.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2006 3:37 pm 
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down in the foot well like the other side or do I need to remove any of the trip that's part of the dash/glove box?

Length isn;t an issue. I can just solder my own set of wires if I have to.

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/______\ ---http://jeep.allgris.com
O||||||||O ---'02 Sport 4x4, 5-spd,
[]--------[] ---2.5" BDS lift, 245/75/16 MT/Rs, Moab Rims, Locked and Regeared!
[]_____[] ---The list got to long, go to my web site for more!


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2006 4:01 pm 
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Its up in the foot well like the other one. The trim you'll have to remove is the kick panel on the side of the foot well (just like for the other one) and probably the piece that covers the bottom of the glove box/heater area. In the extreme upper right corner of my picture above you can see the connection for the radio antenna, so that'll give you an idea where to look. Took a quick look in thru the engine compartment and it looks like you'll need to go in behind the A/C condenser, there is a bit of insulation on mine back there. Good luck!

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2006 5:18 pm 
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man do i need a vacation. i read the topic and was getting ready to talk about how to penetrate firewalls - the computer kind. by the gods, it's a good thing x-mass is coming up....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2006 6:23 pm 
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Thanks for the tip corwyyn!

moose, take yourself a vacation.



I ran a 0 gauge wire into the cab and put it into a distro block with some ANL fuses. I run my on-board air, 3 sets of Hella FF75 55Ws, 1 set of Hella FF75 100Ws, and 1 set of eBay special 130W fogs off the block.

Only problem is that the 0 gauge completey fills up that hole to the point where I didn't even need to seal it off for water-tightness. This means that the main power wire to the fogs on the front bumper can't go through the hole. It should be easy enough to ru them to the other side of the cab. Also, I have no ABS, so that area should be pretty clear in the engine bay.

The wires for the FF75s go up the A-Pillar since they are on the roof rack.

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/______\ ---http://jeep.allgris.com
O||||||||O ---'02 Sport 4x4, 5-spd,
[]--------[] ---2.5" BDS lift, 245/75/16 MT/Rs, Moab Rims, Locked and Regeared!
[]_____[] ---The list got to long, go to my web site for more!


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2006 11:06 pm 
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I drilled a second hole next to the clutch hole, coated it with rust inhibitor, and then Gooped in the cable.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:20 am 
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I ran my 0 Gauge underneath to the back and up through the floor in a watertight grommet to a distribution block. Mine is for all the stereo gear though not for my lighting.

Image

Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:24 am 
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sqliberty, where is that first pic?

Got anymore. I'm not sure what you meant by "underneath to the back".

You have the 0 going all the way to the cargo area under the truck?

Where does it go in at the back?


***EDIT***

I checked out your page. That's a sweet setup man!

Where does that huge ground wire terminate?

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-oooooo- ---Craig, L.O.S.T. #CT068103
/______\ ---http://jeep.allgris.com
O||||||||O ---'02 Sport 4x4, 5-spd,
[]--------[] ---2.5" BDS lift, 245/75/16 MT/Rs, Moab Rims, Locked and Regeared!
[]_____[] ---The list got to long, go to my web site for more!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 2:21 pm 
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Thanks, I have spent a lot of time on the system. Yes I ran it all underneath. I have it running through heater hose where it is close to the exhaust for adde protection.That grommet goes throgh the floor in the cargo area in front of the gas tank and the Ground termination is close to that as well, but inside the car. I just sliced a flap in the carpet to access the floor. I will see if I have any better pics.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 6:06 pm 
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Does anyone have a picture of their set up with a factory battery & any kind of amp, pulling power via any hole with appropriate gauge cables..
I am hoping to get subwoofer and I would like to see what I would face as far as getting power from the factory battery to amp, which might be back in cargo area. From what I see, the amp installation sets with fuses, those cables are pretty thick..

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 4:21 am 
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I didn't take any pictures of the installation process but have some of the somewhat unfinished product:

The supporting components:
Image

Professional electrical taping job; the solder joints ARE actually nice:
Image

"Temporary" line level jumpers; I need to make some nice short ones:
Image

Car PC and signal cables that need to be shortened; I just hate trimming wires that run through the entire vehicle:
Image

Fuse and distribution block and overkill 12AWG speaker wires; using old stuff was cheaper than buying new stuff:
Image

50A Circuit breaker with two 6AWG tinned marine cables; this part worked out well:
Image

Firewall penetration using clutch hole, new hole, tubing, and goop; this part also worked out well:
Image

There's a good factory grounding point under the carpet below front of the rear left seat. By the way, if anyone has any tips on making car audio installs look pretty, please do tell. I think I'm going to build a false floor over top of all the components.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 8:06 pm 
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unixxx wrote:
I didn't take any pictures of the installation process but have some of the somewhat unfinished product:

The supporting components:
Image

Professional electrical taping job; the solder joints ARE actually nice:
Image

"Temporary" line level jumpers; I need to make some nice short ones:
Image

Car PC and signal cables that need to be shortened; I just hate trimming wires that run through the entire vehicle:
Image

Fuse and distribution block and overkill 12AWG speaker wires; using old stuff was cheaper than buying new stuff:
Image

50A Circuit breaker with two 6AWG tinned marine cables; this part worked out well:
Image

Firewall penetration using clutch hole, new hole, tubing, and goop; this part also worked out well:
Image

There's a good factory grounding point under the carpet below front of the rear left seat. By the way, if anyone has any tips on making car audio installs look pretty, please do tell. I think I'm going to build a false floor over top of all the components.





What sound card are you running in your PC? Did you go optical in to the 701?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 8:51 pm 
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I want to replace the factory speakers and get a sub in the cargo area, but I just cannot trust those guys at the local audio shop or bestbuy/circuit city people, so I am looking for the easiest possible way to draw power from the battery with a simple set up. If anyone has any pointers or pictures of a similar setup I would appreciate it if you posted them. This one above looks great, and might be something that I can do later but for starters let me get my basics straight.. Otherwise I will have to leave my baby to the hands of those butchers at audio shops.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 9:32 pm 
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sqliberty wrote:
What sound card are you running in your PC? Did you go optical in to the 701?


I'm using the integrated sound on the iBase MB896. It's optical from the motherboard to the Alpine PXA-H701. In theory any digital interface should sound just as good as another.

hyedipin, the easiest way to get power back there is probably underneath the Jeep as in sqliberty's install. I'll probably go that route when I run AWG 00 back there for the inverter. There's a ton of good information on this site: http://www.bcae1.com/ Whatever you do, just make sure you spec the wire and fuses properly.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 9:39 pm 
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Very cool, my buddy and I both have the 701's and were thinking of going to PC's as well. I will try to get more pics of the wire routing underneath and that website has great info, I learned alot there.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 11:11 pm 
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Cool, the H701 is an awesome processor. If you have any questions about car PC components, or need any, I can hook you up. I'm an authorized reseller for a number of vendors: http://c-comp.com/

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 11:14 am 
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unixxx wrote:

hyedipin, the easiest way to get power back there is probably underneath the Jeep as in sqliberty's install. I'll probably go that route when I run AWG 00 back there for the inverter. There's a ton of good information on this site: http://www.bcae1.com/ Whatever you do, just make sure you spec the wire and fuses properly.


Thanks unixxx,
That site is full of general information and I am sure it will be handy.
I didn't understand what you meant by ..you spec the wire and fuses properly. Normally the cabling sets come with proper gauge single wire plus a fuse that is supposed to go between the amplifier and battery, somewhere near battery. Most of the time amps require certain gauge wire and if I go with that, I assume there should be no problem. My concern is to get it connected there without any problem later on.


When you read stuff like:

Quote:
Wire "D" is a smaller wire. It's also supplied power by the dblock. Since this wire is smaller (let's say an 8g wire), the main fuse can not protect against a short circuit. If the 8g wire shorts to ground, it will burn (and possibly take the vehicle with it). This would be a very unsafe condition.
It really forces you to read as much as possible before trying to do any kind of installation in the car by yourself! :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 12:57 pm 
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First, sorry to hijack Gris.

A lot of times people will build their own cables with a soldering gun, some lugs, a fuse block, and a fuse. In this case you need to make sure that all of these components can handle the current draw of the devices connected to the other end of the cable. If your fuse is rated for 50A and your cable is rated for 30A, your cable will burn before the fuse blows. The same goes for the lugs and fuseblock. As you pointed out, you can always buy a premade cable with fuse but these are usually more expensive, of lesser quality, and the wrong length.

Most problems arise when you use a distribution block to split up the main cable into smaller circuits for individual components. A 4AWG main cable would have something like a 60A fuse to protect it. An 8AWG amp cable might only be able to handle 30A. If you don't install another fuse when you bring the 4AWG main cable down to 8AWG for the amp, you're creating a dangerous situation. If your amp starts drawing 40A, the main cable fuse won't blow because the total draw of all components may still be under 60A, but the 8AWG wire will burn because you now have 40A flowing through an unfused 30A cable.

General rules of thumb:

Never use a larger fuse than the wire can handle
Always use a fuse when you change from a larger wire guage to a smaller one
Always place the fuse as close as possible to the beginning of the wire to be fused
Don't use wire that isn't at least rated for the current your components require

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