Using an upside-down filter housing as an air trap/separator isn't going to cure your air leaks. Main idea is to keep air from getting sucked into the fuel pump and high pressure rail. To be effective, it needs to be as close to the pump as possible, downstream of all the potential leaks, so that it can catch all the air getting into the system.

It's also going to serve as an indicator as to whether or not you do have an air leak, and need to do some troubleshooting. It will also give you an idea of just how good a job the fuel filter is doing catching all the crud/water in the system.

At best, as RFCRD said, this is a band-aid fix until you could replace the fuel lines with some quality components.

Did a quick google search last night for compressed air filters, came acros the website for MSC Industrial Supply Co. Looked thru the Pneumatic filter section to see what was available.

Looks like you could get a filter housing that would work for as low as $18. I'd say go with 1/4" NPT ports, 1/4 pipe pretty well matches our 3/8" ID fuel hose, also what is on the Permacool filter I already have installed and works fine with no restriction.

They had close to 15 pages of different filters listed just under this one section. The 1/4" NPT port models are the smallest and cheapest. Height seems to range from 4 1/2" and up, diameter from 1 3/4 to 3 inches. Pressure ratings ran up to 200 psi. Plenty of them have clear polycarbonate bowls with drain fittings.

First one listed, made by Ingersoll Rand, listed for 18 and change. 1/4" NPT ports, 200 psi rating, clear polycarbonate bowl with drain fitting, 4 1/2" height, 2" diameter.

For the price, sounds like this might be a good place to start.

For those of you using biodiesel, you may want to be aware that polycarbonate won't withstand exposure to biodiesel for any appreciable length of time. So it might work as a short-term diagnostic, but I wouldn't plan on leaving it in the fuel line if you use BD or blends. Acrylics (e.g. plexiglass), clear PVC, and ether-based polyurethanes are also not good to use. EVA, HDPE, teflon, and polypropylene work well, but aren't commonly used as transparent fuel filter bowls, I'm afraid.

Even after proper lines are installed I would leave this attached, its such a great troubleshooter I dont know why one wasnt installed in the first place. Oh wait maybe I do.

RFCRD

Joe Romas wrote:
The filter does look nice but could it worsen our sucking air problem by increasing the vacume necessary to pump the fuel

Very much so, especially if the two filter are separated (one by the engine and the other by the tank). Usually get the best results when the filters are directly in series. In cold climates, you are asking for trouble if you hang a filter in the wind near the tank.

Goglio704

Yes, if you have an air leak, an additional filter could make it worse.

Joe Romas

The filter does look nice but could it worsen our sucking air problem by increasing the vacume necessary to pump the fuel

Inspected the electrical plug to the fuel heater tonight and found it wet with fuel. Removed the plug and pumped the primer twice. It shot fuel across the engine compartment. DC didn't tell us the CRD comes with a built-in parts washer.

Shouldn't this defect be reported to the NHTSA website as a possible fire hazard??? Last I checked, electrical current + fuel + heat is not a good combination.

Inspected the electrical plug to the fuel heater tonight and found it wet with fuel. Removed the plug and pumped the primer twice. It shot fuel across the engine compartment. DC didn't tell us the CRD comes with a built-in parts washer.

Shouldn't this defect be reported to the NHTSA website as a possible fire hazard??? Last I checked, electrical current + fuel + heat is not a good combination.

Diesel doesn't have the same safety hazards as gas. A leak like that with gas would almost guarantee a fire. It takes a lot to get diesel burning in the open.

Very true, I once welded a full fuel tank that was leaking. It takes a hot fire or some pressure to ignite diesel. The jeep shouldn't be leaking fuel though. I will have to check mine when the filter is changed.

This morning I got off my rump and checked the connectors on the fuel filter for leaks. I pushed the plumger and no leaks Then I put a hose on the bleed nipple and opened it up. I heard air excaping even before I pushed the plunger. I pumped forever till I got clear fuel only I then took it for a test ride. Previously I had made sure the clamps and banjo fittings were tight. Keep in mind I've had surging since day one. I noticed instant response from a stop. No 53 MPG when letting off bucking. No steady speed 70 mph unevenness I should have checked it long ago A new car feeling Having had many diesels before I know the things a air leak will cause but they were $200 VW's and not a NEW DC product So what's downstream of the fuel filter that I need to check

Inspect the hose clamp connection at the pump. It's a PITA to reach the clamp.

This morning I got off my rump and checked the connectors on the fuel filter for leaks. I pushed the plumger and no leaks Then I put a hose on the bleed nipple and opened it up. I heard air excaping even before I pushed the plunger. I pumped forever till I got clear fuel only I then took it for a test ride. Previously I had made sure the clamps and banjo fittings were tight. Keep in mind I've had surging since day one. I noticed instant response from a stop. No 53 MPG when letting off bucking. No steady speed 70 mph unevenness I should have checked it long ago A new car feeling Having had many diesels before I know the things a air leak will cause but they were $200 VW's and not a NEW DC product So what's downstream of the fuel filter that I need to check

Try an expansion of your test and you may find your air leak. Do what you did before and purge the air out of the filter. Then unplug the electrical plugs and pump the primer with the bleeder closed. If I read your post right, you checked for leaks when you had air in the system. Once the air is gone, you'll spot a leak much easier.

Last night at Home Depot I picked up a compressed air filter and the necessary fittings, total cost $35. It does have a polycarbonate bowl with metal guard, figure this will work well enough for proof of concept. From the paperwork included with the filter, you can order a metal replacement bowl with glass sight indicator for this same unit.

They had smaller filters with 1/4" NPT ports for $11, but the bowl was so short and small diameter (only about 4" total height for the whole unit) that it didn't look like it would have enough volume to perform as intended.

I went with the larger model with 3/8" NPT ports for $20. About 7 to 8 inches total height, a good sized bowl with a removeable filter and manual drain valve on the bottom.