Hey guys is anyone using a LOCK-RIGHT Locker in their front diff. My 4x4 guy is recommending it and wanted to get opinions. He quoted me $430 installed. Any help would be great.


Thanx

_________________
Chris

2005 Renegade
Frankenlift
245/75/16 Goodyear MT/Rs

Can the front diff take a locker? since it is not steel.

" In some vehicles, you will hear a light clicking noise as the gears are overrunning themselves and allowing the wheels to differentiate in a turn. This is normal of most lockers on the market today. We recommend the LOCK-RIGHT for vehicles that are primarily driven in severe driving conditions or are used for recreational off-road. For vehicles that are driven daily or require more mainstream application." If this is what they say about their product then i would listen to them! That is if u are going to use it as a daily vehicle on the road. I personally dont have one but have looked into various locker options and so far I myself like the arb for the rear and either a detroit truetrac for the front or a arb. I think the arb for the front because it will not affect your on road every day driving performance, Turn it on when u need it and turn it off when u dont .,

_________________
**REMEMBER YOU CAN ALWAYS GET A HUMMER IN A JEEP.... YOU CAN'T GET A JEEP IN A HUMMER**
2003 Jeep Liberty(KJ) Renegade,235/75/16 Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armors 245/75/16 MTR's,Factory Skids, Selec-Trac,trac lock,Husky Floor Liners,OME Lift,948 rear/926 front,Rusty's strut plate,clevis 2.5 "s, Al's UCA's Gen 4.5.

I was always told, since a wee pup, that full lockers on front ends with un-lockable hubs (engaged all the time) is a real big NO-NO.

It is in dangerous, it will make steering the KJ very interesting. Even with the true trac I have in the front, you can feel the limited slip pull on the wheel as it hunts to deliver power. It is an interesting feeling having the wheel pull just so slightly side to side as you drive down the highway in 2wd.

Al

_________________
One Ruby, One Grand Cherokee, One YJ, One disassembled CJ, one Chevy Mason dump, one hotrod IH Pick-up, couple of antique tractors.
Former owner of a 5.5 inch lifted KJ

Al
I have heard that A full locker in the front has damaged some of those alum diff housings also but i would like to know how hard the guys were beating it!!! Ive also been told that a front arb locker would be better than a truetrac due to that it would be engaged only when u want/need it, and that the spinning/slipping of the tires wildly and then them grabing firm traction is what does the damage. I would think that that would occur more with a truetrac then a arb! This is what i have been told anyway ....i have never had one in YET!!! Any real info wil be appreciated ....iam willing to learn new things all the time
Josh

_________________
**REMEMBER YOU CAN ALWAYS GET A HUMMER IN A JEEP.... YOU CAN'T GET A JEEP IN A HUMMER**
2003 Jeep Liberty(KJ) Renegade,235/75/16 Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armors 245/75/16 MTR's,Factory Skids, Selec-Trac,trac lock,Husky Floor Liners,OME Lift,948 rear/926 front,Rusty's strut plate,clevis 2.5 "s, Al's UCA's Gen 4.5.

ARB I believe doesn't recommend their locker for the front, due to the case. Several on the board have wheeled with the ARB and have not had any problems. I have wheeled hard with my true trac, but I do keep the wheel spin to minimum. If I get in trouble I back down and try again, I am not one to floor it to make it over an obstacle. I do have trouble with the true trac, I don't know if its getting old, but sometimes only one wheel will spin.

I would recommend at this point if you have the money to go with the ARB. If not and you need to go cheap, get a true trac. Stay away from full locked front if it is your daily driver. And stay off the gas when you are out wheelin' Some blown cases have occured during slow driving with no strain on the front end, which is odd, but once the alum is strained over and over, it is not like steel, it will fail.

I would try the pinion collar too!

Hope this helps, anyone else want to pitch in and help?

Al

_________________
One Ruby, One Grand Cherokee, One YJ, One disassembled CJ, one Chevy Mason dump, one hotrod IH Pick-up, couple of antique tractors.
Former owner of a 5.5 inch lifted KJ

Al
Thanks for the information .

_________________
**REMEMBER YOU CAN ALWAYS GET A HUMMER IN A JEEP.... YOU CAN'T GET A JEEP IN A HUMMER**
2003 Jeep Liberty(KJ) Renegade,235/75/16 Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armors 245/75/16 MTR's,Factory Skids, Selec-Trac,trac lock,Husky Floor Liners,OME Lift,948 rear/926 front,Rusty's strut plate,clevis 2.5 "s, Al's UCA's Gen 4.5.

Naa you pretty much hit the nail on the head.

Speaking of diff colars, has anyone made or adapted one to the CRD ?

_________________
Custom, Comfortable & Capable.......just the way it should be

Just as Al mention, I wouldn't put a automatic locker in the front of a DD unless it had locking, hubs which the KJ does not. I'd go with an ARB.

Plus if you do want to use 4wd on the road (snow, ice, etc), steering becomes quite interesting. I had one in the front of my CJ, and with the hubs locked in 4wd, lets just say it was almost scary.

Personally, I would think a locker especially a selectable locker like the ARB would actually help keep the front diff in once piece. Seems most failures occur due to excessive wheel spin. A locker will definitely limit slip and wheel spin, so it could have a beneficial effect.

Also according to ARB_Seth, the recommendation to not use the ARB locker is a myth and that is not ARB's stance.

Oz
Last weekend I bolted on one of the original steel collars and it looks like I have enough clearance not to rattle - (I'm not certain because I haven't been off road enough to rattle anything) - I'll get some pictures this weekend and compare to the Aluminum ones.

_________________
2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur