Lift Install??? Torque Settings???

PBrug · **Posted:** Thu Jan 11, 2007 12:37 pm

I will be installing a coil lift shortly and want to make sure I have all the info I can get before the install. I will be assisting a friend who's a mechanic in the installation. Well, maybe just watching but I'll be there to learn. I wanted to make sure I had the correct info on the toque settings and did a little searching. Here's what I found:

From the FRANKENLIFT install article

FRONT SUSPENSION
Four upper shock mounting nuts: 80 lb-ft
Clevis bracket bolt at bottom of shock: 65 lb-ft
Lower ball joint nut: 60 lb-ft
Clevis bracket at lower control arm: 110 lb-ft
Lower stabilizer link at lower control arm: 100 lb-ft
Axle nut: 100 lb-ft
Rotor bracket bolts:100 lb-ft
Bearing hub bolts: 96 lb-ft
Tie-rod ends nuts: 80 lb-ft

REAR SUSPENSION
Shocks (upper): 80 lb-ft
Shocks (lower): 85 lb-ft
Rear stabilizer bolts at lower suspension arm: 73 lb-ft
Upper control arm: 90 lb-ft
Lower control arm: 125 lb-ft
Pinch bolt on top of differential: 70 lb-ft

From the TECH section

Values in Ft. Lbs

Front Shock Absorber Clevis Bracket Upper Nut 100

Front Shock Absorber Clevis Bracket Lower Nut 110

Front Shock Absorber Top (4) Mounting Nuts 80

Front Shock to Spring and Insulator Nut 30

Upper Suspension Arm Front Nut 90

Upper Suspension Arm Rear Nut 90

Lower Suspension Arm Front Nut 125

Lower Suspension Arm Rear Nut 125

Stabilizer Bar Clamp Nut 110

Stabilizer Bar Link Upper Nut 100

Stabilizer Bar Link Lower Nut 85

Hub/Bearing Bolt 96

Hub/Bearing Halfshaft Nut 100

Upper Ball Joint Nut 60

Lower Ball Joint Nut 60

Wheel Speed Sensor 10
...................................................

I know little about this stuff, but to me there seems to be some differences between the two.

This: Clevis bracket bolt at bottom of shock: 65 lb-ft - is listed in the Frankenlift write-up but not the Tech article anywhere I can see.

My question is, if I print both of these sources and give it to my mechanic will it be enough for him to figure it out? Is this info correct and all he will need to complete the install?

Also, besides the Frankenlift install write-up, are there any others around? I looked but came up empty.

Thanks

PBrug · **Posted:** Fri Jan 12, 2007 11:02 am

Anyone???

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Fri Jan 12, 2007 1:38 pm

When putting in the lift, the only torque settings you need to worry about are the forks, the clevis, the balljoints, sway bar, the upper strut plate where it bolts to the body, and the rear shocks.

And yes, all those settings look good to me.

pokey555 · **Joined:** Fri Jun 09, 2006 2:47 pm **Posts:** 50

You should also consider loosening all front and rear upper and lower control arm mounting points. Then tightening the bolts to specifications once the vehicle is on the ground or the vehicle weight is supported by the springs. This is to "reset" the rubber bushing to a zero deflection angle at a new ride height. Without doing so you will be adding to the wheel spring rate and stressing the rubber bushing causing premature failure. Some may dismiss my statements as an unnecessary step, however; once you have your spring and shock disconnected in the front try to cycle the suspension through it full arc. Another way to think about how a rubber suspension bushing is stress during a suspension cycle is by picturing a car on slicks at a track. Upon launch the slick (tire) will wrinkle and have a rotational slip compared to the wheel, the same thing is happening to the suspension bushing.

The increase in bushing resistance would explain why others claims that the ride and handling is tighter with a just the addition of spacers, and not shocks and springs.

Rob

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Fri Jan 12, 2007 3:05 pm

pokey555 wrote:

You should also consider loosening all front and rear upper and lower control arm mounting points. Then tightening the bolts to specifications once the vehicle is on the ground or the vehicle weight is supported by the springs. This is to "reset" the rubber bushing to a zero deflection angle at a new ride height. Without doing so you will be adding to the wheel spring rate and stressing the rubber bushing causing premature failure. Some may dismiss my statements as an unnecessary step, however; once you have your spring and shock disconnected in the front try to cycle the suspension through it full arc. Another way to think about how a rubber suspension bushing is stress during a suspension cycle is by picturing a car on slicks at a track. Upon launch the slick (tire) will wrinkle and have a rotational slip compared to the wheel, the same thing is happening to the suspension bushing.

The increase in bushing resistance would explain why others claims that the ride and handling is tighter with a just the addition of spacers, and not shocks and springs.

Rob

Never thought about that. But then you would need to get an alignment ASAP. That would really screw the caster and chamber up if you loosened the lower A-arm. :shock:

pokey555 · **Joined:** Fri Jun 09, 2006 2:47 pm **Posts:** 50

I perfer to do my own alignment with this:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

PBrug · **Posted:** Fri Jan 12, 2007 9:01 pm

Thank you both.

My plan was to have the lift installed, drive it around for a few days and a few hundred miles then go back and check to make sure everything is tight. After that I will go for tires and an alignment.

Lift Install??? Torque Settings???

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