If you own a set of JKS front disco’s. I don’t have to tell you how noisy they can be. The problem is the much thicker disconnects rub the factory swaybar. I tried Skyjump136’s suggestion of wrapping them with rubber (figure A). It helps a lot. But, they still clank quite a bit.

Here is the solution I came up with. The stud that was supplied is too short and allows the contact. By offsetting the JKS link you will have the proper space needed. (fig B)


Parts Needed:
-2 Fine thread ½” x 2” grade 5 bolts
-2 Washers ½”
-2 Fine thread jam nuts ½” (Thinner than standard size)
- Thread locker
Figure 3 shows the old and new hardware (ignore the extra lock washer you will not use it).


Pull the pins and remove your disconnects. Unbolt and remove the upper stud off the swaybar. Take the new 2” bolt, add the old lock washer and slide it thru the swaybar. Secure with the jam nut and tighten to 65 ft pounds (fig 4).


Next slide the washer over the bolt. Using thread locker, reinstall the stud and tighten. Make sure the new washer is larger in diameter than the stud. This is there to keep the disconnect from sliding side to side and over the jam nut (fig 5).

Reinstall the links. Clean up and enjoy the new found silence.

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Now: "07 steel blue JK Rubicon 2dr
4.5" Rubicon Express lift
rolling on 35"x12.5" Xtreme MT's
Warn M8000 winch
On board Air
Ham radios
Skidrow and kilby skids

Former: '05 Patriot Blue CRD. Lifted, locked, and a few other toys.

Nice write up...that should work perfectly!

Mine dont make any noise, unless disco's but I let the bar swing free??

Why not grade 8?

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The only place worth posting Husky mats and tow hooks mods.

Be carefull with that. That makes a nice pivot point for that bolt. Could snap it right off under hard turning. Which wouldnt be good at all.

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LOST KJ'S
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Current Jeep: 2004 Jeep Liberty
-Atlantic Blue
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Was thinking that too...probably should be grade 8 stuff under there.

Grade 5 is what is used by the original. 8 wouldn't hurt either.

_________________
Now: "07 steel blue JK Rubicon 2dr
4.5" Rubicon Express lift
rolling on 35"x12.5" Xtreme MT's
Warn M8000 winch
On board Air
Ham radios
Skidrow and kilby skids

Former: '05 Patriot Blue CRD. Lifted, locked, and a few other toys.

I could never get mine to not break the cable so I gave up on using it.

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Matt Townsend
Sebastopol CA

02 Red Libby w/Frankenlift, Full armor incl AllJ stuff, 245 MTRs on Cragars, ARB locker, custom rack, K&N FIPK, 8000lb winch, RE rear LCAs, Optima Yellow Top, RL Rear Bumper, Custom Front Bumper
98 TJ w/5.5" RE Long arm lift, ARB front/rear, 35x12.5, Borla, Warn winch, Teralow, etc., etc..

Weird...my cable works great, but they definitely make some noise. I might try this tomorrow. Based on everything I've seen this should do the trick.

I never worried about the noise.

But under full flex and turning the wheels lock to lock in th driveway I could never get the adjustments such that I wasn't knocking against something or just plain breaking that scrawny-ass cable.

Finally, on a trip back from Calico I had the top QD come loose on me (where'd the pin go?), got wedged between the knuckle and the tie rod end, and ended up screwing up my steering rack. Argh.

Yikes! I switched out the stock pins...the originals seemed to bend really easy. I've also spent several hours tinkering with the QD length. Also built myself a beefier/longer lanyard that works great. I think with this little mod I'll finally be happy with this product.

Yikes**2! A rebuilt rack in is $200 and R&R is 10 hours+.

I didn't like the looks of pins that were shipped so got more at the locat tractor dealer.

I recall Jim Nollette warning us off of using heavier cable. So I haven't tried.

mt

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Matt Townsend
Sebastopol CA

02 Red Libby w/Frankenlift, Full armor incl AllJ stuff, 245 MTRs on Cragars, ARB locker, custom rack, K&N FIPK, 8000lb winch, RE rear LCAs, Optima Yellow Top, RL Rear Bumper, Custom Front Bumper
98 TJ w/5.5" RE Long arm lift, ARB front/rear, 35x12.5, Borla, Warn winch, Teralow, etc., etc..

He did warn us about using a heavier cable...the key is making it a little longer so the top post sits lower and does not contact anything. It is the contact that was putting stress on the smaller cables and breaking them. If you take that out of the equation then the beefier lanyard works great.

im doing this tomorrow morning

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1998 Audi A4 1.8tQ

1990 Mazda Miata

"Remember when the platform was sliding into the fiery pit and I said 'Goodbye' and you were like 'NO WAY' and then I was all 'I was just pretending to murder you'? That was great."

What happened to that thing! Is it just the picture or is it really bent that badly?

BTW, I did the mod that W3CSX suggested with grade 8 bolts. I guess mine were dialed in pretty good as I didn't notice much of a change in sound (it might be a little better and less frequent though). There is always going to be a little bit of play in these things because the bushings move around so freely. I still think this is a great mod if you haven't already spent the time I have chasing gremlins (I had already created a tiny bit of space between the QD and swaybar by sanding).

Upper right pin disappeared and QD fell off the pin. Lodged between the knuckle and the tie rod end. Wild road action when only one side is disco'd. Tried to pull over but steering to the right was blocked by QD. Gave wheel a hard tug as it was getting dangerous and the crush you see is what happened.

Not only did the QD crush but also it mashed the steering gear. Rebuilt rack = $200. Labor is at least 10 hours to R&R.

Argh!!

okay ... so @$#% crap

i couldnt find (and i checked everywhere in stupid hawaii) the "thinner" sized nuts....so i attempted with the "thicker" ones...which yeah, proved to be too big and wouldnt let the discos fit.......

while attempting to reinstall the old style, one of the super cool disco pins snaps in half.... wtf

i reinstalled the stock end links.....i am really really really really NOT impressed with these discos whatsoever.....

1. ive had the cable break
2. they clunk clunk clunk all the darn time
3. now the pins break

is anything on this setup TESTED before they sold it?

ugh, RANT OFF


PS -!!! i got the clunking to go away!

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1998 Audi A4 1.8tQ

1990 Mazda Miata

"Remember when the platform was sliding into the fiery pit and I said 'Goodbye' and you were like 'NO WAY' and then I was all 'I was just pretending to murder you'? That was great."

holy crap Matty

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-oooooo- ---Craig, L.O.S.T. #CT068103
/______\ ---http://jeep.allgris.com
O||||||||O ---'02 Sport 4x4, 5-spd,
[]--------[] ---2.5" BDS lift, 245/75/16 MT/Rs, Moab Rims, Locked and Regeared!
[]_____[] ---The list got to long, go to my web site for more!

That sucks. Most big box stores (Home Depot, Lowes) do not carry them. Usually a small independent or someone like Ace Hardware will have them. Always in the small box dividers with the specialty hardware. You can always grind a regular nut down to a thinner size. I also thought of stacking multiple washers, But question there ability to stay tight.

One of my pins bent not long after installing them. I went to the local Tractor Supply Co. and picked up some heaver duty ones.

Jason

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Now: "07 steel blue JK Rubicon 2dr
4.5" Rubicon Express lift
rolling on 35"x12.5" Xtreme MT's
Warn M8000 winch
On board Air
Ham radios
Skidrow and kilby skids

Former: '05 Patriot Blue CRD. Lifted, locked, and a few other toys.

im glad i dont have to waste my time and energy on disconnects makin noise and tearing up other components

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