Lift questions on a limited budget.. my question is..

ctr05kj · **Posted:** Sat Feb 17, 2007 10:33 am

I want to lift my 97 TJ. At least 3 inches. Was thinking of just going w/ Tera-flex's 3 inch coil springs, then some pro comp shocks. I want to fit 32 to 33 inch tires on a limited budget...

Any other suggestions? I am trying to get my Wrangler ready for the Jeep Jamboree in Sept 07 in Bethel Maine.

My jeep is bone stock !!

lilmatty · **Posted:** Sat Feb 17, 2007 11:32 am

The cheapest way to go is a body lift. Just took a 3"er off my 98 TJ.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=16944

jason thompson · **Posted:** Sat Feb 17, 2007 12:58 pm

ctr05kj wrote:

I want to lift my 97 TJ. At least 3 inches. Was thinking of just going w/ Tera-flex's 3 inch coil springs, then some pro comp shocks. I want to fit 32 to 33 inch tires on a limited budget...

Any other suggestions? I am trying to get my Wrangler ready for the Jeep Jamboree in Sept 07 in Bethel Maine.

My jeep is bone stock !!

suspension lift over 2.5" will break $800 easy
you will need other than coils and shocks
-longer break lines
-longer LCA's
-adjustable UCA's out back or cam bolts
-90% chance you will need to do a T-case drop
-longer bumpstops
-adj front track bar or a relocation bracket
-adj rear track bar or a bracket
-drop pitman arm maybe ,maybe not
and this is the bare bones stuff

now the problem that come up at and over 3"
-shocks hitting spring buckets ,if you do a T-case drop this will not be bad if you do an SYE they will hit
-rear springs binding up and maybe even poping out
-rear track bar hitting fuel tank again this is more a problm with the SYE than T-case drop but still it will happen

this is what I did to get to 3.5-4" lift I do not have a clue what it would cost all at once but it rides like a dream
-2.5" skyjacker springs and skyjacker shocks for a 4" kit
-.75" spacers for the front
-longer break lines
-longer bumpstops
-SYE and a tummy tuck(this gives me the same as 6" with out the tummy tuck)
-upper rear spring relocators from Nth*
-shock shifter kit from Nth*
-rear track bar relocator fron Nth*
-adjustable front track bar

Noscapegoat · **Joined:** Thu Jan 05, 2006 11:45 am **Posts:** 104

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.m ... sus_tj_kit

I have this on my 06 Rubicon i didnt use a T case drop or the pitman arm.

works great no vibes rides well flex's well.

enjoy.

jason thompson · **Posted:** Mon Feb 19, 2007 9:40 pm

Noscapegoat wrote:

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rustys&Product_Code=TJ3K&Category_Code=sus_tj_kit

I have this on my 06 Rubicon i didnt use a T case drop or the pitman arm.

works great no vibes rides well flex's well.

enjoy.

you also have a rear CV shaft he has a '97 so I know that he does not
also you are probably OK with out the arm but I would be leary about the angle of the drag link it could bend easily
and you could devolop a vibe down the road without the arm
I know I have been there

KJ Taz · **Posted:** Mon Feb 19, 2007 11:15 pm

jason thompson wrote:

Noscapegoat wrote:

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rustys&Product_Code=TJ3K&Category_Code=sus_tj_kit

I have this on my 06 Rubicon i didnt use a T case drop or the pitman arm.

works great no vibes rides well flex's well.

enjoy.

you also have a rear CV shaft he has a '97 so I know that he does not
also you are probably OK with out the arm but I would be leary about the angle of the drag link it could bend easily
and you could devolop a vibe down the road without the arm
I know I have been there

The Rubi's don't come with a rear CV shaft. The thing they do have is a SYE already. Drag links don't become an issue till you upgrade you tie rod, maybe thats what you meant?

The easiest and cheapest way to get 3" is to do a 2" BB and a 1" bl. This will keep all of the other things from happening like needing a T-case drop, which really much past 3" you most likely will have vibes, but all Jeeps are different. With this cheap set up you will need to add shocks but you will be able to run 33's if you want. You won't have the drive shaft issues and its quick and easy to install. This will also give you time to figure out what you really want to do to your Jeep and save up.

Noscapegoat · **Joined:** Thu Jan 05, 2006 11:45 am **Posts:** 104

KJ Taz wrote:

jason thompson wrote:

Noscapegoat wrote:

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rustys&Product_Code=TJ3K&Category_Code=sus_tj_kit

I have this on my 06 Rubicon i didnt use a T case drop or the pitman arm.

works great no vibes rides well flex's well.

enjoy.

you also have a rear CV shaft he has a '97 so I know that he does not
also you are probably OK with out the arm but I would be leary about the angle of the drag link it could bend easily
and you could devolop a vibe down the road without the arm
I know I have been there

The Rubi's don't come with a rear CV shaft. The thing they do have is a SYE already. Drag links don't become an issue till you upgrade you tie rod, maybe thats what you meant?

The easiest and cheapest way to get 3" is to do a 2" BB and a 1" bl. This will keep all of the other things from happening like needing a T-case drop, which really much past 3" you most likely will have vibes, but all Jeeps are different. With this cheap set up you will need to add shocks but you will be able to run 33's if you want. You won't have the drive shaft issues and its quick and easy to install. This will also give you time to figure out what you really want to do to your Jeep and save up.

Your right Taz Rubi's have no slip yoke and not a CV drive shaft.

and the fact that all jeeps are different couldnt be more true.

Rusty's kit doesn't Address the front track bar thus since you keep that stock you dont need a pitman arm. You want your drag link and your track bar at approximately the same angle. Thus adding a Pitman arm would only cause more problems then good.

My suggestion would be to install the rusty's kit and if you have a vibe use the 1 inch T case drop. I'm not gonna say you will or wont have vibes. But if you do just throw the Tcase drop on no big deal. Rusty's kit will also clear 33x12.50's.

Hope this helps.

EDIT also this is quoted from rusty's site "
Run 32" or 33" tires on your Wrangler, Rubicon or Unlimited (specify vehicle at checkout)! No vibes, no Slip Yoke Eliminator needed, just bolt in and get aligned.
"

jason thompson · **Posted:** Tue Feb 20, 2007 12:44 am

Noscapegoat wrote:

KJ Taz wrote:

jason thompson wrote:

Noscapegoat wrote:

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rustys&Product_Code=TJ3K&Category_Code=sus_tj_kit

I have this on my 06 Rubicon i didnt use a T case drop or the pitman arm.

works great no vibes rides well flex's well.

enjoy.

you also have a rear CV shaft he has a '97 so I know that he does not
also you are probably OK with out the arm but I would be leary about the angle of the drag link it could bend easily
and you could devolop a vibe down the road without the arm
I know I have been there

The Rubi's don't come with a rear CV shaft. The thing they do have is a SYE already. Drag links don't become an issue till you upgrade you tie rod, maybe thats what you meant?

The easiest and cheapest way to get 3" is to do a 2" BB and a 1" bl. This will keep all of the other things from happening like needing a T-case drop, which really much past 3" you most likely will have vibes, but all Jeeps are different. With this cheap set up you will need to add shocks but you will be able to run 33's if you want. You won't have the drive shaft issues and its quick and easy to install. This will also give you time to figure out what you really want to do to your Jeep and save up.

Your right Taz Rubi's have no slip yoke and not a CV drive shaft.

and the fact that all jeeps are different couldnt be more true.

Rusty's kit doesn't Address the front track bar thus since you keep that stock you dont need a pitman arm. You want your drag link and your track bar at approximately the same angle. Thus adding a Pitman arm would only cause more problems then good.

My suggestion would be to install the rusty's kit and if you have a vibe use the 1 inch T case drop. I'm not gonna say you will or wont have vibes. But if you do just throw the Tcase drop on no big deal. Rusty's kit will also clear 33x12.50's.

Hope this helps.

EDIT also this is quoted from rusty's site "
Run 32" or 33" tires on your Wrangler, Rubicon or Unlimited (specify vehicle at checkout)! No vibes, no Slip Yoke Eliminator needed, just bolt in and get aligned.
"

You both need to read more
you CAN NOT have a SYE without a "CV" style drive shaft
Your drive shaft has a special joint with basicaly 2 U-joints on one end and 1 at the diff and a slip joint in the middle

I know I am the one who "BUILT" mine
I put in the SYE I measured and had cut and welded the rear D/S ,can not do this at home if you plan to drive on the highway cause it will also need to be balanced
Yes you dont need the pitman arm as long as the track bar and drag link line up
but who would want to lift there rig and let the front axel sit more to one side?

to me why do a job like that 1/2 @ss#d?
if you spend all that money to buy the rig why do a 1/2 rate lift?

Also take the time to think
if all the other stuff that is included in other 3" kits is not needed why do they sell it?
What about the simple things like bupstop extensions? They are no question needed or you will destroy shocks and fenders with 33's and nothing to stop them from going up to far

KJ Taz · **Posted:** Tue Feb 20, 2007 12:09 pm

jason thompson wrote:

Noscapegoat wrote:

KJ Taz wrote:

jason thompson wrote:

Noscapegoat wrote:

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rustys&Product_Code=TJ3K&Category_Code=sus_tj_kit

I have this on my 06 Rubicon i didnt use a T case drop or the pitman arm.

works great no vibes rides well flex's well.

enjoy.

you also have a rear CV shaft he has a '97 so I know that he does not
also you are probably OK with out the arm but I would be leary about the angle of the drag link it could bend easily
and you could devolop a vibe down the road without the arm
I know I have been there

The Rubi's don't come with a rear CV shaft. The thing they do have is a SYE already. Drag links don't become an issue till you upgrade you tie rod, maybe thats what you meant?

The easiest and cheapest way to get 3" is to do a 2" BB and a 1" bl. This will keep all of the other things from happening like needing a T-case drop, which really much past 3" you most likely will have vibes, but all Jeeps are different. With this cheap set up you will need to add shocks but you will be able to run 33's if you want. You won't have the drive shaft issues and its quick and easy to install. This will also give you time to figure out what you really want to do to your Jeep and save up.

Your right Taz Rubi's have no slip yoke and not a CV drive shaft.

and the fact that all jeeps are different couldnt be more true.

Rusty's kit doesn't Address the front track bar thus since you keep that stock you dont need a pitman arm. You want your drag link and your track bar at approximately the same angle. Thus adding a Pitman arm would only cause more problems then good.

My suggestion would be to install the rusty's kit and if you have a vibe use the 1 inch T case drop. I'm not gonna say you will or wont have vibes. But if you do just throw the Tcase drop on no big deal. Rusty's kit will also clear 33x12.50's.

Hope this helps.

EDIT also this is quoted from rusty's site "
Run 32" or 33" tires on your Wrangler, Rubicon or Unlimited (specify vehicle at checkout)! No vibes, no Slip Yoke Eliminator needed, just bolt in and get aligned.
"

You both need to read more
you CAN NOT have a SYE without a "CV" style drive shaft
Your drive shaft has a special joint with basicaly 2 U-joints on one end and 1 at the diff and a slip joint in the middle

I know I am the one who "BUILT" mine
I put in the SYE I measured and had cut and welded the rear D/S ,can not do this at home if you plan to drive on the highway cause it will also need to be balanced
Yes you dont need the pitman arm as long as the track bar and drag link line up
but who would want to lift there rig and let the front axel sit more to one side?

to me why do a job like that 1/2 @ss#d?
if you spend all that money to buy the rig why do a 1/2 rate lift?

Also take the time to think
if all the other stuff that is included in other 3" kits is not needed why do they sell it?
What about the simple things like bupstop extensions? They are no question needed or you will destroy shocks and fenders with 33's and nothing to stop them from going up to far

LMAO! Rubicons come stock with no slip yoke and no rear CV shaft, do your home work.......................

I have not done the pitman, because anything under 4-1/2" you really don't not need to. MY rig is not done half a**.

Anyway, there is no use aguring with you.................

I did up grade to a CV shaft (In the Rubi's its just a bolt on, no SYE needed because you already have one) when I did my TT, but thats a whole other story.

jason thompson · **Posted:** Tue Feb 20, 2007 1:53 pm

KJ Taz

does this look like your DS and SYE?

Just so we know SYE means
Slip
Yoke
Eliminator

The slip yoke is found on EVERY wrangler but the Rubicon
A slip yoke is what allows the drive shaft on NONrubicons to change length
it allows the YOKE to SLIP in and out of the transfer case this is also a week link and tends to break
if you eliminate the SLIP YOKE how will a standard DS change length?
Oh wait I know you need one with a SLIP JOINT and I have yet to see a JEEP drive shaft with a slip joint and what is commonly known as a "CV shaft"
I know that you CAN get TRUE CV joint style drive shafts but that is not the norm rather the one in the pic is

And seeing as how you are so smart where did the DS in that pic come from?
I know it is the one on my jeep and has been for a while
The hints are ,they are common and found on other jeeps? should be a dead give away

Oh and as far as you rig not being 1/2 a'ed maby not but from the pic and what you said I would question that if I were you
1 in a few years when the tub starts to rust at the body mounts and they start to rip away because the added leverage from the body lift is allowing it to see more force then needed then what? I have seen it happen
also with no way to center the axels then your rig will "crab" down the road because the rear axel will be pulled to the passenger side and the front to the driver side but I am sure you know that and if that is ok with you then fine but that is not correct
doing something incorrect = you know what

KJ Taz · **Posted:** Tue Feb 20, 2007 2:15 pm

The difference between you and I is I only talk about what I know. Here is the stock drive shaft off my Rubi, I still carry it as a spare.

And here is the one I replaced it with my TW CV shaft. Yes I know what a CV shaft is. I had to go with a CV shaft when I went to the Nth tummy tuck.

This discussion is over. Before you argue with some body, make sure you know the facts about their type of vehicle. You really need to read up before you start slamming people...........

Oh and a 1" bl is really nothing in the grand scheme of things. I know folks that have been running them for years with out any problems.

KJ Taz · **Posted:** Tue Feb 20, 2007 2:34 pm

And one last answer, you are talking about a track bar not a drag link. Its what adjusts your axle in the front................And yes I do have an adjustable track bar.

Noscapegoat · **Joined:** Thu Jan 05, 2006 11:45 am **Posts:** 104

Don't Worry Taz my rig is the one that is half a'd :lol:

Jason i wish you were correct that i had a double cardon joint drive shaft.

but sadly i do not. My drive shaft is the stock rubicon drive shaft just like taz's stock one.

Apparently my jeep must be "crabing" down the road because i dont have an adjustable trackbar yet.

Well yet again im sorry to inform you it doesnt "crab" down the road. yes my front axle isnt centered its probley off all of a inch. And it still tracks down the road fine.

Well here's my half a'd rubicon. I assure it still drives fine and is plenty capable even still.

jelohead · **Posted:** Tue Feb 27, 2007 8:04 pm

ok, hijack time.....if i were to lift my leaf-sprung YJ 3.5 or 4", what other mods do i NEED to make so it'll drive properly? or.....what about 1.5" shakles and a 2"body lift instead to save some $ any opinions?

kj in a tight spot · **Posted:** Tue Mar 06, 2007 3:17 am

jason thompson wrote:

to me why do a job like that 1/2 @ss#d?
if you spend all that money to buy the rig why do a 1/2 rate lift?

Been lurkin for a while but havent posted for a while...I am mainly on ROF now and sounds like you need to check out ROF too jason thompson...jeez :roll:

I dont think you should be callin any of us half assers until you get out and wheel with us...Taz is respected over on ROF and he aint half assed as you say...and yes Rubys dont have an SYE or a CV, seriously DO YOUR HOMEWORK and pretend your some sorta expert somewhere else bud...pitman arms aint needed either for a lift of 4" or less as Taz said, but I bet ya knew that one too huh? I think its funny, and this is how it always happens, when someone bashes and then gets proven WRONG by numerous people then they back down and dont post up again... :roll:

Had to defend my fellow ROFers :wink:

05kjrenny · **Posted:** Tue Mar 06, 2007 8:47 pm

[quote="

Had to defend my fellow ROFers :wink:

[/quote]

X2, great job :!:

kj in a tight spot · **Posted:** Tue Mar 06, 2007 8:49 pm

05kjrenny wrote:

[quote="

Had to defend my fellow ROFers :wink:

X2, great job :!:

[/quote]

LOL Its all in good fun :twisted:

jason thompson · **Posted:** Wed Mar 07, 2007 1:06 am

OK fellows here we go
I will not waste my time with name callin
YES I WAS WRONG ON TH RUBI D/S issue

and now seeing as how we are all shareing our 1/2 A'ed TJ here are some of mine
the small log pile

The weenee trails out at telico ,can't you tell my wife is driving they must be easy
heck that rock is only bigger tham my TIRES

ho and yeah look at that 1/2 A'ed jeep no flex and all kinds of tire rub

and lets not forget the mud hole
I mean heck look at that thing any chicken shat jeep could make that right

Now boys lets not put folks down when we have no clue how they roll
do I know it all? NO I do not
do I know how to wheel? I think so
do I know how to build a real jeep? Yup no doubt
I know what parts are woth buying to bolt on my pile and what is a waste of money
do you?

LOST TJ · **Posted:** Wed Mar 07, 2007 2:24 am

I like they way i built mine, but it will always be a work in progress. Here is my H.A. build. I'm not sure if i built it to your specifications jason, but i like it.

Old Man Emu HD Springs and Long Travel Shocks.
JKS 1" MML, 1.25" BL, Adjustable RTB
Toys by Troy Steering Box Skid, Front Punkin Guard, Rear Rock Bumper.
Toys by Troy Full Crossover Steering
Warn Gastank Skid.
Riddler Rear Diff Cover
Nth Degree Mobility Sliders F&R,HD LCAs and Adjustable FUCAs.
Rubicon Express RAUCAs
Jeep Medic Fabrication LCA skids, Engine/TrannySkid and TT Skid.
Currie AntiRock.
Poison Spyder Customs Trail Cage,Tube Fenders,Rocker Knockers and Crusher Corners.
Skid Row Radiator Skid.
GoodYear MTR 305/70/16 on Cragar Black Rock Crawlers.
SpiderTrax Wheel Spacers.
Cobra 75 wx st CB / 4' Firestik Ant.
AEM Brute Force Air Intake/Throttle Spacer.
USA Alloy Shafts Front and Rear.
Precision Drivelines Custom Rear Driveshaft
Rock Lights.

Sitting on the floor waiting to be installed:
35 1250 15 Maxxis Creepy Crawlers on Black Cragar Steelies
513 USA Alloy Ring n Pinion Gears

All bought by me. Bolted on buy me and freinds.

jason thompson · **Posted:** Wed Mar 07, 2007 7:59 pm

I love how people always think I want to have some kind of pissing contest

"oooh look I almost made it to the roof"

Grow up guys this is making US all look like jackalopes

Lift questions on a limited budget.. my question is..

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