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PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 10:08 pm 
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I'm planning on using the New Holland on the OEM filter head as a prefilter, and spinning a Cat 2 micron on the Permacool filter head as a secondary.

The Wix replacement for this particular New Holland filter had specs listing it as 5 micron with glass media and a beta ratio of 75 (98.7%). If it meets those specs, it's certainly better than the Mopar filter, but still nowhere near as good as the Cat.

I'm going to order an Avlube kit, and see how the New Holland filter stacks up.

The Cat filter setup will still be the best you could do as far as filtration. At best, the New Holland is just an intermediate step between the Mopar filter and the Cat, a spin-on replacement that's cheaper (and hopefully better) than the Mopar filter.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:27 am 
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Did around 40 miles of driving last night, mostly on the interstate. When I got home, checked the NH filter to see how it was holding up.

Filter did fine, but that wonderful two piece mounting head that DC gave us is another story. The flat rubber gasket between the upper and lower halves was leaking like a sieve out the back side, such that the lower half of the mounting head was wet with fuel and running down the back side of the filter.

Think I know what the problem is, seen basically the same thing on the Permacool mounting head. If the filter is torqued on rather tight, when you initially try to get the filter broken loose, it also tends to unscrew the center pipe out of the mounting head.

Looks like part of the SOP for changing out a fuel filter should include having the appropriate size allen wrench to make sure that the center pipe is still down and tight before spinning on the new filter.

Going to have to pull the NH filter back off and check the tightness of that center pipe.

Other than that, no performance problems with the NH filter. Matter of fact, with the MAF unplugged and the EGR off line, that beast will take off like a bandit getting onto the interstate.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 1:14 pm 
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oldnavy wrote:
retmil46 wrote:
Think I know what the problem is, seen basically the same thing on the Permacool mounting head. If the filter is torqued on rather tight, when you initially try to get the filter broken loose, it also tends to unscrew the center pipe out of the mounting head.

Looks like part of the SOP for changing out a fuel filter should include having the appropriate size allen wrench to make sure that the center pipe is still down and tight before spinning on the new filter.


Hey, what about some Loctite on those threads? Or would the fuel eat away the stuff and not let it seal threads?


Don't know to tell the truth, have to check out the info on a tube of it next time I'm at the auto parts store.

Pulled it back off this morning. Put the filter head in a vise, some firm tapping with an 8 mm allen wrench and a BFH tightened it up between 1/16 and 1/8th of a turn. Slapped it back together and ran it at idle for a few minutes, no apparent leaks. I'm going to let it sit overnight and then give it a good run tomorrow morning, then park it for about an hour after it's good and hot, then check for leaks again.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 1:21 pm 
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oldnavy wrote:
retmil46 wrote:
Think I know what the problem is, seen basically the same thing on the Permacool mounting head. If the filter is torqued on rather tight, when you initially try to get the filter broken loose, it also tends to unscrew the center pipe out of the mounting head.

Looks like part of the SOP for changing out a fuel filter should include having the appropriate size allen wrench to make sure that the center pipe is still down and tight before spinning on the new filter.


Hey, what about some Loctite on those threads? Or would the fuel eat away the stuff and not let it seal threads?


If you use Loctite I would use the Blue. The red is very hard to get off. You really should never have to take it off but you never know.

Greg

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 1:22 pm 
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Makes you wonder if the "general public" is having leak problems after getting the fuel filter replaced at the dealer?

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 1:37 pm 
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Checked it again this morning. Just sitting overnight, bloody thing started leaking again. Plus, it looks as though the bloody bleed screw has started weeping by as well. Fracking CAPOS. :evil:

Looks like it's time to use my Mopar discount and buy a spare filter head, then pull the old one off and see if it's BYM fixable.

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'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
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V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 8:28 pm 
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lol....this is getting too funny.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 8:29 pm 
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no-blue-screen wrote:
lol....this is getting too funny.




Well in defense of the mod, maybe jocko is his real name. :D

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 8:36 pm 
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Well, while I don't agree with Walt (oldnavy) all the time....I think his presence here is a benefit to all of us.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 10:34 pm 
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no-blue-screen wrote:
Well, while I don't agree with Walt (oldnavy) all the time....I think his presence here is a benefit to all of us.



Absolutely!!! He is from Missou for crying out load. Go Tigers!!! 8)

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 11:13 pm 
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These posts with copying of the previous "quotes" are just eating up space...ya'll want to argue...take it to PMs...not in the general forums. You guys know what the other meant so let it go.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 8:22 am 
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DarbyWalters wrote:
Makes you wonder if the "general public" is having leak problems after getting the fuel filter replaced at the dealer?


Makes me wonder if I'll have problems when the time comes (or maybe the time has alread come and I'm stalling). I'm at 16.7k miles and 18 months, probably time for a change right? Or can I wait until the recommended mileage regardless of time?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 9:56 am 
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alljeep wrote:
DarbyWalters wrote:
Makes you wonder if the "general public" is having leak problems after getting the fuel filter replaced at the dealer?


Makes me wonder if I'll have problems when the time comes (or maybe the time has alread come and I'm stalling). I'm at 16.7k miles and 18 months, probably time for a change right? Or can I wait until the recommended mileage regardless of time?




It really depends on the quality of fuel you buy. I changed mine at 20,000 miles, and it was still pretty clean. It would have easily lasted to 25K. If you aren't having any symptoms, I'd wait a bit.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 10:17 am 
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BVCRD wrote:
It really depends on the quality of fuel you buy. I changed mine at 20,000 miles, and it was still pretty clean. It would have easily lasted to 25K. If you aren't having any symptoms, I'd wait a bit.
Well I am not so sure about that BVCRD, you saw how clean the fuel I use was and what was going into the fuel system from the filter due to condensation alone. I didn't bother to change my filter because I figured I would still have the same problem, so why bother. I figured the 4 to 6 weeks to wait for the adaptor would not make that much difference.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 10:55 am 
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oldnavy wrote:
BVCRD wrote:
It really depends on the quality of fuel you buy. I changed mine at 20,000 miles, and it was still pretty clean. It would have easily lasted to 25K. If you aren't having any symptoms, I'd wait a bit.
Well I am not so sure about that BVCRD, you saw how clean the fuel I use was and what was going into the fuel system from the filter due to condensation alone. I didn't bother to change my filter because I figured I would still have the same problem, so why bother. I figured the 4 to 6 weeks to wait for the adaptor would not make that much difference.



I didn't have any noticeable water in mine. Could it be that is because we are around 7% humidity most of the time out here?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 11:09 am 
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BVCRD wrote:
oldnavy wrote:
BVCRD wrote:
It really depends on the quality of fuel you buy. I changed mine at 20,000 miles, and it was still pretty clean. It would have easily lasted to 25K. If you aren't having any symptoms, I'd wait a bit.
Well I am not so sure about that BVCRD, you saw how clean the fuel I use was and what was going into the fuel system from the filter due to condensation alone. I didn't bother to change my filter because I figured I would still have the same problem, so why bother. I figured the 4 to 6 weeks to wait for the adaptor would not make that much difference.



I didn't have any noticeable water in mine. Could it be that is because we are around 7% humidity most of the time out here?
You betcha that would have a lot to do with it, I live in a climate where humidity below 40% is rare and average summer humidity 90% and up. But still to be able to know for sure you would need a fuel test done on the the fuel coming from clean side of the filter because you could be above the limit and not be able to see the water. We could not see the water in my fuel, and you saw how high my water content was from the test.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 11:20 am 
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no-blue-screen wrote:
Well, while I don't agree with Walt (oldnavy) all the time....I think his presence here is a benefit to all of us.
Thanks shipmate it's nice to know. :wink:

Time to take a break and start painting the door frame and door into the garage, paint and install a couple of shelves in the den for the wife.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:43 pm 
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One quick question, and hopefully it hasnt been answered already.

It is my understanding that the factory filter will seperate, or at least absorb water that may be in the fuel and not allow it to pass through.

Will either the CAT or New Holland filter do this? Or will we be left with zero water seperation abilities should the need ever arise?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 1:01 pm 
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Jeger wrote:
One quick question, and hopefully it hasnt been answered already.

It is my understanding that the factory filter will seperate, or at least absorb water that may be in the fuel and not allow it to pass through.

Will either the CAT or New Holland filter do this? Or will we be left with zero water seperation abilities should the need ever arise?
The OEM filter does not seem to stop water and it causes the filter material to come apart and allows water and trash to pass to "clean" side. The Cat filter stops water and does not come apart like the OEM filter when it blocks the water.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 1:13 pm 
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New Holland filter is also made to be a fuel water separator, printed as such on side of filter, has a M14 X 2.0 threaded port on bottom for water drain and/or WIF sensor. On the parts drawings for the New Holland tractor it's originally made for, it shows a WIF sensor as standard.

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'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
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