Adventures in spark plug changing

Tokyojoe · **Posted:** Sun Mar 11, 2007 4:16 pm

Okay...that was a pain in the Gluteus Maximus!!!

My adventure in Spark Plug changing for the KJ on Saturday. Having done these many time with my PU and cars, I am not a total beginner, but this was a challenge.

Got the Autolite Double Platinums. They say gap at 0.035 but the sticker on the Jeep says 0.042 but I am guessing that is only for the NGK's. Couldn't find either of my two gappers so I ran to the store to get one and luckily, went and got a universal adapter for the sockets (reading up from other member's attempts helped me there). The first four were okay but the last two, especially the last one took awhile.

Had to move remove the top mounting bolts and small hose from the radiator overflow tank and try to turn it away w/o taking off that big hose underneath. Fifth plug came out after that.

That last one, closest to the tranny dipstick was not coming out. After 20 minutes, I decided to let the engine cool down more......watched TV for an hour.....went back.......still not budging. Debated debated debated....spray PB (not Peanut Butter) rust remover/loosener or not? Well after a long decision and 10 more minutes of trying, I sprayed it in the socket and set it on the plug. Went back to watching TV for another 30 minutes and went down to try again. After discovering the rubber grommet in the spark plug socket was dissolving from PB's, I tried some more on the plug. After another ten minutes, it finally gave way!

Now the problem was getting the new plug in without it falling out of the socket (remember the rubber grommet breaking down). It kept slipping from the socket. I had to do it by hand and let it "gently drop into place. Now to make sure I don't cross thread. No problems there. FINALLY!

Gaps on old plugs were at 0.060 to 0.080. Overall, didn't look real bad for 33K.

Started the KJ up. I have to say, I didn't notice any difference but I haven't gone driving yet.

Spent the day, today, so far swapping out the MTR/Moabs with the stock wheel and tires, cleaning out the garage (mainly the filthy floor), filling gaps/holes in the garage walls (drywall meets concrete)with that foam stuff, and removing the High Density Poly strip from my sliders (the proto from Marty). Rust coming through the paint (4 coats of Rust Tough Primer and 4 coats of Rust Tough Enamel and it is still rusting through (not scratch exposure either). Tough winter.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 11, 2007 4:22 pm

You shouldn't change plugs on a aluminum head engine while it's hot,very good chance of stripping the threads(future warning).You got that right about the pass rear 2 plugs being a pita to get to,I used a 1/4" ratchet with many extensions and them adapted to the 5/8" plug socket and some universal joints to get them without touching the overflow tank.I run autolite double platinums to but gapped them at 0.042 like the sticker says.

tommudd · **Posted:** Sun Mar 11, 2007 5:53 pm

Another tip is to use an old plug wire end (the rubber end) to stick the plug in that and then you can lower that down into the hole and start it that way. I think they make some kind of plug starter thing that you can use also to start the plugs. I have an old plug wire end that is about 6 inches long and works perfect. Been using it for years in many different vehicles.
know exactly the words you were saying Tokyojoe! :wink:

KJ04 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 11, 2007 7:03 pm

A peiece of rubber hose works well on the end of the plug to get it started.

Tokyojoe · **Posted:** Sun Mar 11, 2007 8:07 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

You shouldn't change plugs on a aluminum head engine while it's hot,very good chance of stripping the threads(future warning).You got that right about the pass rear 2 plugs being a pita to get to,I used a 1/4" ratchet with many extensions and them adapted to the 5/8" plug socket and some universal joints to get them without touching the overflow tank.I run autolite double platinums to but gapped them at 0.042 like the sticker says.

Engine wasn't hot, just warm. I know you can't change thme when hot. You can't get your arms anywhere close to do the change.

Almost made me wish for the simpler engine days when you had all kinds of room to work on an engine.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 11, 2007 8:39 pm

Tokyojoe wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

You shouldn't change plugs on a aluminum head engine while it's hot,very good chance of stripping the threads(future warning).You got that right about the pass rear 2 plugs being a pita to get to,I used a 1/4" ratchet with many extensions and them adapted to the 5/8" plug socket and some universal joints to get them without touching the overflow tank.I run autolite double platinums to but gapped them at 0.042 like the sticker says.

Engine wasn't hot, just warm. I know you can't change thme when hot. You can't get your arms anywhere close to do the change.

Almost made me wish for the simpler engine days when you had all kinds of room to work on an engine.

I hear you,I miss my blazer I could sit inside the engine bay and work on the 350.Sorry I misunderstood what you wrote, I thought the engine was hot since you said you let it cool down some more.Well if my feeling doesn't return in my left arm I'll have no problem getting close to hot parts,just got to remove my arm when I start smelling flesh burning

.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Sun Mar 11, 2007 8:56 pm

Glad you got it all figure out.

I am planning on changing out my cragars for the stock wheels this week also.. What lift do you have on your libby? Do you think the stock tires look to small? Or do you still have the stock size on you stock rims? I always dread going back to the stock rims. I fall in love with the look of the cragars and dont want to take them off. :lol:

I want to save the tread on them and try to save some MPG.

I enjoy working on the 4.0's. The seem to have plenty of room and are easy to work on.

welby · **Posted:** Sun Mar 11, 2007 9:42 pm

I removed the overflow bottle also and ty-wrapped it up to the wiper arm to keep it out of the way. I use a spare piece of fuel or vacuum line to remove/start plugs.

Eddo · **Joined:** Thu Jul 07, 2005 7:01 pm **Posts:** 1214

If you have a long extension you actually don't need to remove a thing. Also, if you get the spark plug socket with rubber garment in good shape it holds the plugs nice and snug, so you can pull them right out with the socket and use it to hold the new ones to put in.

FreeJeep · **Posted:** Sun Mar 11, 2007 10:17 pm

Did mine tonight and didn't have to remove anything. Just used a couple extensions and a universal joint.

At least one locking extension is nice to have when using a "spark plug" socket. Really sucks to have the socket stick to the plug, not the extension after tightening.

DonC

Tokyojoe · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2007 12:46 am

FreeJeep, I had to use needle nose pliers to get the spark plug socket off when it kept getting stuck after tightening.

JeepJeepster:

Here is what it looks like at 7 days old with no lift (totally stock everything) and then 20 minutes after installing lift and still with stock tires/wheels (the wheels and tires I just put back on).

FreeJeep · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2007 9:25 am

The locking extensions and universal joint are definately worth the investment. Used the 3 extensions with a universal joint and didn't have any problems getting to all of the spark plugs. I got these from sears.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00943355000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Socket+Accessories&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00904435000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Socket+Accessories&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

Not too pricy, guaranteed forever and work great.

DonC

1300ZUK · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2007 9:39 pm

FreeJeep wrote:

Did mine tonight and didn't have to remove anything. Just used a couple extensions and a universal joint.

At least one locking extension is nice to have when using a "spark plug" socket. Really sucks to have the socket stick to the plug, not the extension after tightening.

DonC

X2 it took me about 1hour working slow to change mine

Sure was alot easier and less time consuming than my 4cyl sonoma that took 2.5 hours to do plugs and wires

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2007 9:50 pm

Since I have done mine 4 times now I have it down to an hour, but thats with stopping to have a (soft) drink and talk to the neighbors who always show up when I am in the garage. Thats the problem when your neighbors are retired Jeep employees living up the street. :lol:

My worst plug changing was on a 69 Mustang with a 390, had to take motor mount loose on right side , jack the engine up and then bend your body and arms into pretzels and then it was done! :wink:

Tokyojoe · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2007 9:56 pm

Hand those neighbors a socket and tell them to take a turn at a plug (leave the two hardest for them)

:lol:

By the way, Rusty's Coil lift, to answer JeepJeepster.

jason thompson · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2007 9:58 pm

all this talk about removing and reinstalling spark plugs but no mention of a dab of high temp anti seize (sp?) to prevent them from sticking and to help avoid damage to threads the next time

I have done this several times in the past and have never had a problem after
also keep in mind that the block and plugs are 2 different metals so that can also cause problems

Hope someone finds this usefull
Jason

Tokyojoe · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2007 10:06 pm

Yep, used.

Did find having air in a can useful to blow the dirt away before removing cap and plugs. Need a longer tube/straw to attach to the nozzle though.

Went to Lowes and dreamed of buying the $150 air compressor, instead, bought the Goodyear 24V Cordless Impact wrench at Pep Boys. Sure made swapping out of the MTR/Moabs to SRA/Reny Stock wheels much quicker.

TJKJ, I looked at Home Depot and Lowes but could not find a 28 V Cordless Impact Wrench like you have...in fact, didn't see any tools that were 28V. Special purchase?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2007 10:15 pm

Tokyojoe wrote:

Yep, used.

Did find having air in a can useful to blow the dirt away before removing cap and plugs. Need a longer tube/straw to attach to the nozzle though.

Went to Lowes and dreamed of buying the $150 air compressor, instead, bought the Goodyear 24V Cordless Impact wrench at Pep Boys. Sure made swapping out of the MTR/Moabs to SRA/Reny Stock wheels much quicker.

TJKJ, I looked at Home Depot and Lowes but could not find a 28 V Cordless Impact Wrench like you have...in fact, didn't see any tools that were 28V. Special purchase?

Bought my Milwaukee 28V cordless impact from tyler tools.http://www.tylertool.com/milwaukee1.html

Tokyojoe · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2007 11:13 pm

HOLY Schnikies!

325 ft/lbs torque
Retail: $780.00
Sale price: $479.00

That is a massive chunk of cookie dough! I know Milwaukee tools are great but.....

I guess I am happy with the $99 (comes with a $10 rebate also, so $89) 200ft/lbs torque 24V impact wrench.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2007 11:22 pm

Tokyojoe wrote:

HOLY Schnikies!

325 ft/lbs torque
Retail: $780.00
Sale price: $479.00

That is a massive chunk of cookie dough! I know Milwaukee tools are great but.....

I guess I am happy with the $99 (comes with a $10 rebate also, so $89) 200ft/lbs torque 24V impact wrench.

I love it,comes with 2 batteries and lasts along time on the batteries(lithium ion for long run times and has full power until the battery is dead unlike Ni-Cad and NIMH batteries).Like they say you get what you pay for :wink:

.

Adventures in spark plug changing

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