+1 on the Procomp 3"x30' and I have a tungsten pin rated at 20k I use in the rear hitch

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2006 Renegade 4x4
Roof Light Bar,
Off-Road Package,
Rock Rails,
Tow Package, Factory Tow Hooks Front.
Rear Hitch Tow Hook,
750 Watt Inverter,
Cobra 25 WX CB Radio W/ a Cobra HG-M75 Power Mic
Cobra 100 Watt CB Magnet Mount Antenna - HG-A1000
Garmin nuvi 265T

As long as the strap is rated, it DOESN'T matter what name is says on it! If you buy any strap with a 10,000 SFL (Safe working load, NOT breaking strength) you will have MORE than enough strength!

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T.J. N
07 KJ; 2.5" RRO lift + 1/2" clevis lift & xtra isolators; 245/75R16 Dayton Timberline MT's;
ProComp ES3000 shocks; ProComp Explorer 5" driving lights; Mopar Tail light guards,
grille inserts, roof x-bars, tow hooks; full Mopar plus custom skids, custom spare tire riser;
Magnum hood deflector
soon: winch in factory front bumper...

so a 3" X 50' will work? will it fit okay in the warn shackle?

Dude that is way to much
I have been looking for some of the picks from the "old spillway" and can not find them
This was a place that should have had a warning at the gate "40 inch tall tires required beyond this point"
I have seen full size trucks on 40's and bigger out there stuck in mud up to the bumper and they all use good ole 2" lifting sligs
remember that 99% of the time when a strap breaks it had a bad spot in it and most of the time it is the anchor point that comes off first
with a KJ you will never put out enough force ,on the trail, to break a good 2" strap
now with 50' to run you will break something but I doubt it will be the strap

all you need is 20-30' max of good strap
In the past 6 years ,closing of the spillway, I have yet to see some one stuck to the point that even a good hard tug was needed mostly it was a hill that was just a little to much for their rig and the needed a little help
or they put it on its side but most times man power can fix that

Just my .02 buy what makes you feel safe but I can tell you right now when I need help I use my strap because I know the cond. of it
I know that it was kept clean and dry and out of the sun wich is way more important than some hunking strap

i have a 30 foot strap with a 10,000lb limit with metal hooks on both ends of it.. i bought it from wal-mart for like.. 19 dollars. i know it may not be the best strap but it's good enough for what i'll need it for. not to mention the reason i bought it was A. i needed one just incase.. and more importantly B. to pull my friends on a plastic saucer down a very snow and ice covered road at high speeds .. of course they were dressed in snow clothes, dirt bike boots, chest protector, and helmet.....

Metal hooks .FYI straps with metal hooks is a no-no,many offroad parks and clubs don't allow those,just letting you now.Plus the ends can become missiles if that hook breaks,much like chains do when they break.

But the pulling friends part does sound fun.
I forget what they're called, but anyone try those red straps that wrap around themselves instead of having a loop at the end? Do they work? Are they hard to unwrap?

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Nanette

03 Freedom with some neat stuff done to it that I learned about here.

i had no idea!.. thanks for the news.. looks like i'll have to invest in a new one before the jeep jamboree. What type of strap ends are suggested .. just the strap loops?

Yep, the ones with the loops on the ends,you can get good ones for a pretty good price.My 2"x20'(15,000 lbs working load) cost like $25-$30(can't off hand remember where I bought it,it's been awhile) and my 3"x30'(30,000lbs working load) cost me $45 at a Tractor Supply Company(TSC).

there are standards. As I recall, they go like this:

- NO METAL HOOKS. PERIOD! They HAVE killed people before.
- at least 20' long. 15' is too short for safety.
- at least 2" wide.
- at least 20,000lb rating as I recall.

Read some trusted sites for details.

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Adam
KJ is SOLD for a JK Rubi Unlimited!
2003 Renegade.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3199258

JeepTales

While you should replace the metal hooked straps, something is better than nothing. If you do have to use them... throw an old heavy blanket over the metal hooks, a wet blanket is even better. Should the hook let go-- the blanket will absorb the majority of the impact, and the hook will be much less likely to become a lethal projectile.

Even worse than the metal hook is the attaching of any tow strap to a trailer ball hitch. The ball hitch was designed to be loaded in a uniform fashion. By trying to recover from the ball hitch-- you stand a very good chance of turning the ball into a cannon ball when the extreme shearing force removes it from the rest of the hitch. I saw a picture of a vehicle that had this happen on the range rover forum. The hitch went right through the land rover performing the recovery. It went right through the engine compartment-- through the firewall-- through the driver and the drivers seat (killing the driver) and all the way through and out the back of the vehicle. It looked like someone shot the vehicle with a cannon-- it had a 4-6 inch diameter hole through it.

The energy level on that ball hitch is similar to the energy level of a high caliber anti-aircraft round. Of course the cannonball is not rifled so it has no range... but it is sold hardened steel and thus works like an armor piercing round. You don't want it coming at you, as you are dead if it does. So are the next 30 people right behind you.

Also, I would not use the "strechy" energy recovery straps unless you are trained on how to use them and know what you are doing with them.

Most vehicles will just be stuck in snow or mud and can be recovered easily... but if the vehicle is stuck hard... i.e. if it is stuck or high centered on something underneath it-- you had better be real sure of the strength of your attachment points.

What is the best way to shorten a recovery strap, from somewhere in the middle? (not by looping it through the secondary vehicle and halving the length).

With rope, the only way I know is with a sheep shank.

Will a sheep shank and a dog bone work with a 3" recovery strap?

Is there a better way?

Looking forward to your responses.

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06 CRD LIMITED- Factory Belly Armor, Hooks.
EHM, MagnaFlow SS Cat Back, FS-2500, HDS 001 TStat, Some Gauges, PML Trans Pan, PML Diff Cover, Marinco Mod, FIA Blanket, Cooper Discoverer ATR 225/75, CTS 245/70, Front-JBA 2.25" C/Os, Rear-OME HD, JBA UCA, SS Brake Lines.

Myself I would buy the longer recovery strap. Often you find yourself stuck far away from solid ground. Be careful tugging with a strap and always use solid tow points not hitch balls.

Also be positive of what you are buying. I have often seen advertisements for recovery straps only to find out when I arrive at the store that they are selling tow straps.
Very different straps that don't behave the same.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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my trail & highway ride (and occasional tow rig)
04 Liberty Sport with a 2.5" lift, ProComp 245/75R16 AT's and two Hella700FF lamps (more accessories to come)

my trail queen
95 YJ with a RE 4" lift, 33" ProComp Extreme's, M8000 Winch, Lockrite Locker up front, Super35 in the rear and 4.88 gears

I like the snatch straps.
Kinda like a bungee cord for Jeeps.

IMO, once your stuck, whatever method gets you unstuck and doesnt injure anybody is a good recovery method.

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U.S. Army Retired

Like a Bubba Rope?
http://www.bubbarope.com/

I've used my recovery straps before to tug or "snatch".
That's the difference between a recovery strap & a tow strap.
The recovery strap has more elasticity.

But I've seen complete bumpers torn off when tugging.
Funny as hell but also pretty scary.
YouTube is full of videos of tugs gone wrong.
Just be careful out there


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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my trail & highway ride (and occasional tow rig)
04 Liberty Sport with a 2.5" lift, ProComp 245/75R16 AT's and two Hella700FF lamps (more accessories to come)

my trail queen
95 YJ with a RE 4" lift, 33" ProComp Extreme's, M8000 Winch, Lockrite Locker up front, Super35 in the rear and 4.88 gears

Fellas, thanks for the responses. I have an Ericson 3" Recovery Strap, 27K lbs., 30' long, and a billet aluminum dog bone.
This works great to connect to an eye.

My question is: What is the best way to shorten it in the middle somewhere, but not by doubling back?

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06 CRD LIMITED- Factory Belly Armor, Hooks.
EHM, MagnaFlow SS Cat Back, FS-2500, HDS 001 TStat, Some Gauges, PML Trans Pan, PML Diff Cover, Marinco Mod, FIA Blanket, Cooper Discoverer ATR 225/75, CTS 245/70, Front-JBA 2.25" C/Os, Rear-OME HD, JBA UCA, SS Brake Lines.

I hate tying knots in flat straps because they become impossible to untie and reduce its strength.
Which is why I say that in an emergency, whatever method gets you unstuck and doesn't hurt anybody is a good method.

I'm not a sailor or a boy scout, but here is what I would do.
A. double it back
B. buy a shorter strap
C. tie a figure 8 on a bite midway down the strap. Insert the dog bone thingy in the center of the knot so you have some hope of getting it undone. Hang/tie-up the loose end so its out of the way.

Your sheepshank might work but then again, flat straps like to stay flat.

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U.S. Army Retired