My house was new when we moved in seven years ago. The concrete slab in the garage was clean except for whatever was on it from construction. I applied a coating that I purchased from Griot's Garage. It requires you to acid etch the concrete to open up the surface and provide the proper tooth for bonding the coating. This is a somewhat dangerous process and should be performed with good ventilation, the proper protective gear and plenty of water on hand.

I applied two coats as recommended. I have had some areas lift, both at the tires and at other locations. The lifted areas are not large or abundant. I suspect the the lifted areas are areas that were not clean enough or etched enough.

I did not broadcast granules in the coating because I was concerned that having the granules would make it difficult to clean. I can clean my floor very easily by mopping it, but in the winter it is extremely slippery. Everyone in my family has fallen at least once.

In addition to making it easy to keep the garage clean, the light gray color makes it easy to locate dropped fasteners.

Depending on where you live, I would be cautious about putting down mats or tile that is not permanently bonded to the floor. During some portions of the year here in southeast Michigan, I get a lot of condensation on my floor. That condensation will occur under the mat or tile and can have an adverse affect on the concrete, resulting in premature deterioration.

If I ever inherit a lot of money, I will be installing permanent tile specifically made to withstand heavy loads and chemicals. These to are availabel through Griot's Garage.

Christopher

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Renegade
olllllllo

I didn't build the garage, but love it's 24'X36' size. The only problem I have is that the floor has a few dips in it. If I bring in the jeep wet or covered with snow I end up with a large puddle by my drivers door and a few other places. I've been thinking about just cutting out a drain in the floor to let the water get to the ground, but I've also thought about getting floor paint and having that settle in the dips just making for a thicker coat in those areas. Any thoughts on if floor paint would also work as a floor leveler?

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'02 KJ Limited 4x4, trac-loc, factory skids, self installed rear hitch, trailer breaks, & trans-cooler, custom crossrails/canoe rack.

I just finished my garage floor with Rustoleum's epoxy kit. 1st I cleaned it with mineral spirits (not included in kit, but recommended), the citric acid (included, muriatic acid was not recommended). I squegeed everythin g out so it would dry quicker. After the acid the water left a nice concrete deposit on my new asphalt. Hopefully, a pressure washer will take care of that. I painted around the walls with a 4" brush so I could roll everything else. I opted no to put down the chips. My only complaints are it did not cover the small cracks well, which I could have used a second coat on. And it's more blue than I expected. Without the chips it's a little slick when wet. I may do a second coat over the whole thing and put the chips down.

My baseboard, and foot of one of my walls had been completely destroyed by termites. The termites were taken care of, but the previous owner did nothing about the damage. I live in a townhouse (4 units per building) and the homeowners recently repaved the driveway. This raised the level of pavement by less than an inch, which cause water to go into my garage, and flow under the wall into my neighbors. I put a new seal on the bottom of the door, and seals along the sides. This seems to have remedied the problem, but I'm going to glue another seal to the floor. I also got some vinyl baseboard, the stick on kind that flares out at the bottom. I put a bead of caulk under the flare to prevent flow between garages.

My garage is now hermetically sealed and when you open the door it sounds like opening a vacuum sealed can of tennis balls.

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2012 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon