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PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2006 3:09 pm 
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Adam, I did the plugs on mine a couple of weeks ago and had no real problems getting around the coolant bottle. I used a couple of 6" extensions and a universal joint to get to the passenger side rear but other than that it was done in about an hour. I re-gapped the stock plugs and put them back but am planning on going to a different make next payday. Oh, and I torqued 'em to 10 ft lbs, just enough to make sure they're set. Good luck..

Just checked the '03 FSM and it specifies the torque on the 3.7L plugs at 20 ft lbs.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 6:33 pm 
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I just changed mine today with bosch platinums (pregapped at .40). I have just under25000 miles and the plugs were well worn. Some things to make the job easier:

a 1/4" extension (10" would be great) for the 10mm bolt holding in the coil packs.

I used a small flat head screw driver to help pull apart wiring for the coil packs. Some I didn't have to because there was enough room to pull it straight out.

I bought a 3/8ths 10" craftsman extension that actually locks down the spark plug socket so when you pull the plug out it all stays together...no more reaching in with a pair of needle nose pliers to pull out the socket or plug. :lol:

a short pipe to put over your 3/8 rachet (if you haven't changed the factory plugs) to use for little bit of leverage.

I did take apart the air hose and put it to the side(easy)
and I pulled the coolant bottle off and disconnected the little hose on the right side of it. I layed the bottle just to the left.

All in all it was easy to do...took me just about an hour to do.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 9:47 pm 
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chetos wrote:
I bought a 3/8ths 10" craftsman extension that actually locks down the spark plug socket so when you pull the plug out it all stays together...no more reaching in with a pair of needle nose pliers to pull out the socket or plug. :lol:


REALLY!?! I didn't know such a thing existed! YOu got a picture or a part number on that there part, fella?

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 10:06 pm 
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AdamIsAdam wrote:
chetos wrote:
I bought a 3/8ths 10" craftsman extension that actually locks down the spark plug socket so when you pull the plug out it all stays together...no more reaching in with a pair of needle nose pliers to pull out the socket or plug. :lol:


REALLY!?! I didn't know such a thing existed! YOu got a picture or a part number on that there part, fella?


I can't think of the name but the number on it is: 44358

Image

the red circle is the little black thingy that you move up or down to move the ball so it basically locks and unlocks it.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 12:00 am 
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I don't think that part number is correct. At sears.com, it comes up as a "locking extension bar" which is just an extension bar with a ball on it. It doesn't have that slot that yours has.

I did stumble upon this though, which I guess is THE way to go:
KD Tools 3 pc. 5/8 in. Extended Universal Spark Plug Socket Set
Sears item #00942274000 Mfr. model #KDS41740

http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00942274000
http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00942274000?rgn=0,0,2500,2498&scl=10&fmt=jpeg

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 2:23 pm 
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jsstover wrote:
Has anyone ever used a little bit of that silver anti-seize on their plugs. I used that on my old chevelle all the time and was glad I did.


I changed my plugs yesterday and applied anti-seizing compound to all the plugs. If you plan on changing them ever again, I would suggest using it.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 8:19 pm 
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Science_Guy wrote:
jsstover wrote:
Has anyone ever used a little bit of that silver anti-seize on their plugs. I used that on my old chevelle all the time and was glad I did.


I changed my plugs yesterday and applied anti-seizing compound to all the plugs. If you plan on changing them ever again, I would suggest using it.


Did the same with mine. Good idea especially with Al heads.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 6:34 pm 
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Looks like he was talking about this one...

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00943355000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Socket+Accessories&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 6:54 pm 
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Yep, that's it!! I just got the 10 incher though!!

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 4:42 am 
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the recommended gap is just that, a recommendation with the cheap stock copper plugs. the gap should be changed based on what type of plug you are using since its based on its conductivity. platinum plugs should be opened up roughly .10 to and iridium plugs .15-.20

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 12:53 pm 
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jcphoto20 wrote:
the recommended gap is just that, a recommendation with the cheap stock copper plugs.

And that changes depending on where you look. When I was at sprawl-mart picking up some plugs I looked thru the book and most all of the ones listed for the KJ showed a gap of 0.035, but checking on autozone.com I found some that listed a gap of 0.044. I went ahead and gapped mine at 0.044 (autolite platinums) and they are doing fine...

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 11:12 pm 
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Hey, every post in here it seems had to change plugs at 25K or so!!?? Is this really the case? I've got 21K on mine and it runs great! Furthermore, this is 2007! Has DC NOT figured out how to make plugs last?? Every GM truck/suv I've had since my 96 Vortec 350 had 100K plugs and I never had a miss! Why the trouble with plugs so soon???
I've been extremely satisfied with the service my little KJ has given me. Is this a sign of things to come?? The ONLY wrenchin on a late model that should be necessary is wrenchin you WANT to do, not because it HAS to be done!!

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 1:10 pm 
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I wouldn't worry about it much. but changing plugs is generally cheap and easy to do. As I recall, it's pretty easy on our 3.7's as well.

Say hi to DFW from me. I just flew there there twice this week. ;-)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 5:34 pm 
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Thanks. I was just wondering why it's a problem so soon? I had a 77 Chevy 4x4 with non electronic ignition, that could go longer on a set of plugs than that.

What brings you to DFW?

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2007 9:11 am 
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I changed the plugs this morning. It has 34K miles on it. One was burnt pretty bad. The rest were so so. Man where they tight!

Terry

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2007 11:00 pm 
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rubigade wrote:
Thanks. I was just wondering why it's a problem so soon? I had a 77 Chevy 4x4 with non electronic ignition, that could go longer on a set of plugs than that.

What brings you to DFW?


Business. I used to live in TX for about 3 years. I love going back. Pappasito's is my favorite!

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2007 7:10 pm 
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Just changed mine today. Very easy, went with the Bosch Platinums. I kept them at the factory setting of .040 This is the recommended for the Jeep, so I just verified it and left it. Runs really well now.

FYI I used a 10 inch extension, a 5/8ths inch universal joint sparkplug socket, and one 3 inch extension, and was able to get them all out without disconnecting anything. Nice...

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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2007 12:30 pm 
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i have 32K on mine... and am going to try and replace the plugs myself... that being said, do i need to unplug the battery? is it hard to unhook the cap on the spark plugs? do i have to have a torque wrench when replacing them? do i need to use a sealent as some have said b4? and ngk is what the dealer and pepboys recommended... thanks in advance!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 6:38 pm 
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This is a great thread. I just changed the plugs on my KJ this afternoon. First time for this vehicle, and it was a different setup than I was used to with older vehicles. Reading this thread made it very simple to do, took me only about 45 minutes including moving the coolant container. The plugs that were in there were NGKs and they were gapped at .050, except for one, which they apparently forgot to gap, because it was sitting at .055. :evil: I used Autolite double platinums gapped at .044, and already the KJ seems perkier at the low end and going up hill. :) Thanks to the original poster and to all the others for the input! 8)


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 Post subject: Questions and Shop Manual
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 6:13 am 
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Haveing tha genuine 2002 Shop Manual from DC it calls for 2FR6F-11G NGK spark plugs (0.042 in.) GAP. Coil Mounting Nuts torque 70 inch lbs. , Coil Capacitor Nuts torque 70 inch lbs. , Spark Plugs torque 20 foot lbs. Note before installing coils back onto spark plug check the condition of coils O-ring and apply silicone greese to O-ring then carefully re-install coils onto spark plugs..I am not trying to sound like a no it all, this thread is so informative I thought I would ad these few minor details from the 2002 Bible of Liberty. So do not claim this as fact for any other year. Several members have added their valuable advise, but I saw no mention of the O-rings. Then again it could be as simple as in the middle of an oil change wash hands before taking a leak. :oops: :shock: :oops: a common sence sort of thing . :roll: :lol:

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