i was wondering how often you change your fuel filter and which one is the best?

also the timing belt when should you change it and have any of you done it yet?

the reason is my mom has a 2001 vw beetle with two warrantys and it only has 50000 miles and the timing belt broke which bent the valves and so on. the quote they gave her was 4500.

I think the dealership says at 80 thousand or so.

what do you think the cost of a timing belt change would be?

I don't know the cost of a timing belt. I have heard here that a change at 100,000 is ok. I don't think anyone has that many miles yet.

I change fuel filter at 24,000 miles. I use OEM filter ($ 35+/-) from dealer and have had no problems. Some here are wild about how terrible the OEM filter is, but that is a decision you will have to make.

Owners manual states 100,000 for the timing belt and 25,000 for the fuel filter. I also use the oem filter as no other manufacturer makes a filter for the crd. There are some options(modifications) you can do if you feel the oem filter isn't adequate. Use the search engine or wait for someone to chime in.

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2005 sport crd-SOLD No regrets

okay thanks for the response

Regarding the fuel filter, I have used the OEM because I have yet to find a decent (ie Wix, Napa Gold) replacement.

Regarding interval to change. A lot depends on where you live. The Manual interval would be ok for some situations. However, with over 2 decades of over the road truck experience including 6 years in Alaska, I would recommend you change at the manual interval or at least in the fall before temps go down to freezing mark.

If you do not exceed 25K miles a year, once in the fall would be prudent. Any crap (ie wax, water) in the filter will probably give you problems if you don't change in the fall. I would also recommend you keep a spare in the vehicle even if you don't change the fuel filter yourself. Some dealers do not stock them on a regular basis. When you need to replace the filter in the winter, you will need one right then, period. At least you will have a spare on hand that any mechanic can replace.

Fuel filters are strong adherents to Murphy's law. They fail at the most inoportune time. Keep one on hand at all times.

I just change mine. But I bought a six pack of oil filters from a Jeep dealer in michigan and they have an Ebay store in which they sell 3 fuel filters for 79.95 plus 9.95 shipping so I asked my dealer if they would match the price and they did. Each fuel filter came to around 26.00 each plus tax it actually saved me the shipping.

Think I'll stick with the new Cat 2 micron filter that Greg of LubricationSpecialist has developed an adaptor for our rigs to be able to use the better filter by Cat.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

Agreed. If I had to go with a one filter only setup on mine, I'd pop for Greg's kit and run the Cat filter. After the one-time expense of the adapter kit, you'll be able to use a filter that is considerably better than the OEM, less expensive than the OEM, has widespread use in the trucking industry, and is available at most any Cat or big rig service center.

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Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

I farm and have over 10 diesel engines. We always change our fuel filters in the fall no matter what the miles. This pretty much eliminates being stranded on a cold dark winter night. If you live in a warm winter state you can probably go by the book. I also carry a spare fuel filter under the seat in case of emergency.

I changed my filter last night. I pulled the whole assembly out of the car to change the filter. I don't know how I would have twisted that filter off with it still in there. I'm sure it can be done, but I was able to do the whole job in 20 minutes. I did have the heater and sensor section twist a little bit while loosening the filter, so I snugged the center pipe down before putting the new OEM filter now. Doesn't seem to be leaking so cross your fingers. Other than the twist everything was great. Why that filter head couldn't have been one solid piece is ridiculous. I think DCX likes making for work for themselves. Oh well, mine isn't leaking so I can't complain too much.

Craig

I changed mine with a swivel strap wrench. You may now be leaking air.

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2006 Sport CRD

Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?

Problem is that it is about impossible to keep the sensor section from turning without breaking the sensors and removing the filter at the same time. I'll keep an eye on it and see if it is leaking.

Not really. I had the swivel strap wrench and went in on the brake fluid res. side of it. I was able to pivot the wrench and slid it down along side the filter and once at the bottom of the filter, slid it on and took it off. Piece of cake.

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2006 Sport CRD

Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?