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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2007 4:14 pm 
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Stan Wright wrote:
I just installed my kit and did a pictorial write up on it. I would recommend taking the entire assembly to a work bench. It will be much easier.

http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/fuelfilter.htm


Thanks for the write up. I noticed you recommend prefilling the filter before priming. Today fuel need to be filtered a lot better because of the high pressure and damage a small piece of dirt can do. If you fill the filter in the middle of the filter (which is unavoldable) dirt can go in even staight from the pump nozzle. I wouldn't do this as you can scratch the pump or ruin an injector.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2007 4:28 pm 
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BlackLibertyCRD wrote:
Stan Wright wrote:
I just installed my kit and did a pictorial write up on it. I would recommend taking the entire assembly to a work bench. It will be much easier.

http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/fuelfilter.htm


Thanks for the write up. I noticed you recommend prefilling the filter before priming. Today fuel need to be filtered a lot better because of the high pressure and damage a small piece of dirt can do. If you fill the filter in the middle of the filter (which is unavoldable) dirt can go in even staight from the pump nozzle. I wouldn't do this as you can scratch the pump or ruin an injector.
I didn't bother to prefill the filter for convience reasons mostly, and I wanted to see how easy it was to use the pump. Heck it was easier using the pump then messing around trying to fill the filter and then assembling it without spill it all over. I would never prefill the filter with a pump that works as well as this one does, to me it would be just plain silly.

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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 12:33 am 
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BlackLibertyCRD wrote:
Stan Wright wrote:
I just installed my kit and did a pictorial write up on it. I would recommend taking the entire assembly to a work bench. It will be much easier.

http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/fuelfilter.htm


Thanks for the write up. I noticed you recommend prefilling the filter before priming. Today fuel need to be filtered a lot better because of the high pressure and damage a small piece of dirt can do. If you fill the filter in the middle of the filter (which is unavoldable) dirt can go in even staight from the pump nozzle. I wouldn't do this as you can scratch the pump or ruin an injector.


Yep, there's a symbol on the side of the Cat filter that means "don't prefill", because you're pouring unfiltered fuel into the clean side of the filter.


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 1:52 am 
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Thanks for the clarifications. I took that recommendation out of the writeup.

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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 9:15 pm 
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I second taking it out to a bench vise, that is one snug fit for the adapter going
back in, and snug coming out. I don't think it will move and I just took it for a
run, no leaks so far, I thought I might not have tightened the adaptor enough as
it stopped pretty much and I did not want to overtighten. I am assuming the
leaks will show up right away. Wiped it off and went for a 5 mile run. Nice
setup folks, thanks to those who worked on this and spurred the interest in
doing it. Now to get rid of that filter head some day, into one piece unit.

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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 9:33 pm 
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Definitely recommend using a vice. Also recommend cleaning out all the old loctite in the threads and the filter head. Also use the box end of a wrench on the allen if you can't get enough leverage on it. It's on there!

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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 10:52 pm 
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Hey guys, I just installed the Cat filter adapter, but decided to go for the full monty. I threw on a 1R-0749 instead of the 0750. This baby is twice the size of the one that comes with the kit. It's about 4 inches longer, and the canister is a slightly larger diameter, but the threads and gasket diameter are identical. I'm going to keep the 0750 under the seat as a spare.

To fit I had to remove the bracket that holds a large wiring conduit to the intake elbow. There are two 10mm bolts holding it down, and once they are removed the conduit pushes toward the front of the vehicle. I took the whole filter head off to do this, and after installing the filter to the head, lowered it all down into the engine bay. The bottom end of the filter touches the conduit, but it's nothing a zip tie won't fix. And there's still room to remove the filter from below the vehicle, should I need to change it. I expect it should last 50,000 miles.

Image

Image

I also recommend using a bench vice, and cleaning the old loctite out of the threads. One thing I haven't seen emphasized is cleanliness. Clean your workbench and wear clean rubber gloves. Clean the allen wrench you use to install the new nipple into the head. Blow out the assembly with compressed air after you get the nipple in. The clean side is the bent fuel elbow - towards the driver's side as installed. Don't let anything fall into the rubber hose when it's disconnected from the filter head. When you've got the nipple assembled and are ready to reinstall the head, blow compressed air into this elbow to clear out any lint or loctite fragments from the center of the nipple. This will greatly reduce the chance of clogging an injector.

It actually didn't take much priming to get fuel pressure, and she started right up. I haven't taken it out on the road yet, but I'm going to do so and check for leaks.


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 11:46 pm 
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One other thing I noticed. How can your fuel heater burn up in an air pocket if fuel is constantly flowing through it to get to the filter?

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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 12:01 am 
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Now that you mention it, I think my wife left the key on and ran the battery down right before I found my heater connection leak...

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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 12:05 am 
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onthehunt wrote:
One other thing I noticed. How can your fuel heater burn up in an air pocket if fuel is constantly flowing through it to get to the filter?
Heater running to much, not enough fuel flow, or both.

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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 12:24 am 
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CATCRD wrote:
Hey guys, I just installed the Cat filter adapter, but decided to go for the full monty. I threw on a 1R-0749 instead of the 0750. This baby is twice the size of the one that comes with the kit. It's about 4 inches longer, and the canister is a slightly larger diameter, but the threads and gasket diameter are identical. I'm going to keep the 0750 under the seat as a spare.

To fit I had to remove the bracket that holds a large wiring conduit to the intake elbow. There are two 10mm bolts holding it down, and once they are removed the conduit pushes toward the front of the vehicle. I took the whole filter head off to do this, and after installing the filter to the head, lowered it all down into the engine bay. The bottom end of the filter touches the conduit, but it's nothing a zip tie won't fix. And there's still room to remove the filter from below the vehicle, should I need to change it. I expect it should last 50,000 miles.

Image

Image

I also recommend using a bench vice, and cleaning the old loctite out of the threads. One thing I haven't seen emphasized is cleanliness. Clean your workbench and wear clean rubber gloves. Clean the allen wrench you use to install the new nipple into the head. Blow out the assembly with compressed air after you get the nipple in. The clean side is the bent fuel elbow - towards the driver's side as installed. Don't let anything fall into the rubber hose when it's disconnected from the filter head. When you've got the nipple assembled and are ready to reinstall the head, blow compressed air into this elbow to clear out any lint or loctite fragments from the center of the nipple. This will greatly reduce the chance of clogging an injector.

It actually didn't take much priming to get fuel pressure, and she started right up. I haven't taken it out on the road yet, but I'm going to do so and check for leaks.



So what does the replacement 749 and the 750 cost respectively?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 12:40 am 
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It was $19 vs $14, for something that will last twice as long.


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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 12:57 am 
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Quote:
Now that you mention it, I think my wife left the key on and ran the battery down right before I found my heater connection leak...


Now that one I can believe.

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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 7:16 am 
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onthehunt wrote:
One other thing I noticed. How can your fuel heater burn up in an air pocket if fuel is constantly flowing through it to get to the filter?


On mine, the fuel heater element didn't burn up. It still measures around 1.2 ohms. It just started leaking fuel out through the pins on the heater electrical socket, and that started burning. The male connector, which is bright yellow plastic, is now burnt black on one side and one of the electrical pins inside of the fuel head electrical socket is also burned and pitted.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 8:45 am 
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onthehunt wrote:
Definitely recommend using a vice. Also recommend cleaning out all the old loctite in the threads and the filter head. Also use the box end of a wrench on the allen if you can't get enough leverage on it. It's on there!


Perhaps this is just my ignorance of proper automotive loctite use (only ever used it on RC cars and lawnmowers), but how does one get old thread lock out of the female thread in the valve body safely?

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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 9:48 am 
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Loctite will come out with some WD-40 and a toothbrush. Parts cleaner will also work.

I have a V-twin motorcycle that shakes like a wet dog at idle, so loctite is my friend. EVERY bolt gets loctited, and I've still lost one. :roll:

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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 9:59 am 
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Can we buy just the adapter kits if we have our own CAT filters? Are the oil drain adapters back now too? I was told you weren't doing them anymore Greg. If they are then I just might have to start buying stuff again :) Last question, do we just dangle the moisture thing now?


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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 11:51 am 
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ccattie wrote:
Last question, do we just dangle the moisture thing now?
Nothing like hanging loose for some. :wink:

Myself I had some extra electrical tape and taped it to another harness out of the way. :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 12:01 pm 
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Since the stock fuel filter was also a water seperator, is it risky to install just a filter without a water seperator. I saw a post on another site that CAT makes a filter seperator too.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 12:13 pm 
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chadhargis wrote:
Since the stock fuel filter was also a water seperator, is it risky to install just a filter without a water seperator. I saw a post on another site that CAT makes a filter seperator too.
From my fuel sample off the clean side of the fuel filter I had both water and trash, the OEM filter is paper and comes apart when exposed to moisture/water. The water seperator section appears not to stop water anymore then the water detector depects water. My water warning light had never came on and my water content in the fuel was about 3 times the ASTM for max permissible.

I have run just Cat 2 micron filters on VW's w/o any water problem ever in the VW's, and neither have hundreds of others over the last 5 years. Yes Greg was the one who got an adaptor made for the VW's back then. 8)

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