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 Post subject: Frankenlift on CRD install questions--Update...VICTORY!!!
PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2007 7:16 pm 
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If anyone has installed the new OME heavy duty spring frankenlift shocks on the front end of a CRD, can you tell me how you got the driverside clevis on?
I'm stuck where the bottom of the shock where the spring perch is located will not clear the inner CV joint by about 3/8 of an inch. I've tried using a ratcheting tie down on the clevis and jacking up the lower a-arm to attempt to compress the shock, but have not had any success. I even tried using at the same time a ratcheting tie-down on the shock coils to attempt to compress them.

I don't see how to get this clevis on without ripping up the inner CV boot, how did you do it???


ETA: Thank you all for posting advice and what you did to overcome this obstacle. I ended up removing the lower A-Arm and using ratcheting straps and a bottle jack to manuver the A-Arm back into postion to get the bolts back in after I had attached the clevis to the lower control arm. It's a tough sensored word allright.

I managed to pinch a hole in a lower ball joint boot, and previously had both the top control arm ball joint boots pinched by the rock krapper kit. Any idea how long one can go before they need replacement? What indications are given when they are ready to give it up?

Definately "Miller Time" after that job.

Once again, thanks for the help. Its what makes this an excellent forum. I owe y'all a beer, don't let me forget.

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Last edited by GilaMonster on Fri May 04, 2007 7:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2007 8:42 pm 
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I don't have the new springs.

I had the stock CRD springs with the Daystar -I tried rachets and crow bars - couldn't get anything close.

The only way I could get it together was to drop the lower a arm completely. i.e. I pulled the inner bolts - ( 1 comes all the way out - the other almost) - drops the lower A arm enough to insert the clevis, then put a floor jack under the A arm to lift it enough to connect things.

Note - this totally kills your alignment - if you mark the bolt positions it might get you close., but that just allows you to drive it to the nearest alignment shop.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2007 9:05 pm 
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ATXKJ wrote:
I don't have the new springs.

I had the stock CRD springs with the Daystar -I tried rachets and crow bars - couldn't get anything close.

The only way I could get it together was to drop the lower a arm completely. i.e. I pulled the inner bolts - ( 1 comes all the way out - the other almost) - drops the lower A arm enough to insert the clevis, then put a floor jack under the A arm to lift it enough to connect things.

Note - this totally kills your alignment - if you mark the bolt positions it might get you close., but that just allows you to drive it to the nearest alignment shop.


That is what I'm trying next. I know the alignment is shot anyways, I did mark the camber, but I've moved them around anyways.
Will the A-arm really jack back up into position with the new shock? I'll let you know.

Thanks for the advice.

ETA: Did you take the hub assembly off the A-arm when you dropped it, or just left it on?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2007 9:17 pm 
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you should be able to leave it on but, tie it up loosely so it doesn't flop out.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2007 9:37 pm 
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i installed the frankenlift on my non CRD.. and just tastefully used a pry bar. .haha..

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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2007 9:38 pm 
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Yes, be careful that you dont let the cv's come out if you unbolt the lower a-arm.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2007 11:58 pm 
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I did it yesterday, and the drivers side was a beast. I eventually just pounded the strut up until I could slip a screw driver into the clevis and pry it open while I lifted the strut out. I reversed the process to put the new assembly in. It helps if you have a cute wife to run the screw driver.

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1996 Lexus LX450 -locked and lifted-


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2007 12:29 am 
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spencevans wrote:
I did it yesterday, and the drivers side was a beast. I eventually just pounded the strut up until I could slip a screw driver into the clevis and pry it open while I lifted the strut out. I reversed the process to put the new assembly in. It helps if you have a cute wife to run the screw driver.


I'm not sure I follow what you did. I've tried getting a bottle jack on the clevis while mounded to the new strut, but no joy.
Could you please give more detail on how you put the frankenlift strut into the drivers side?

Thanks.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2007 1:14 am 
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Sorry I missunderstood the question. I used a combination of the ratchet strap, hydrolic jack, and hammer. It is really a two man job. I did not tighten the clevis bolt until after I had the fork on. My ratchet strap did most work but it kept getting hung up so I hit it with a hammer a few times an it slipped right on. The Jack and the ratchet lined it up perfectly.

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2005 CRD , Moab Rims, 245/75/16 Goodyear M/T
RL rear bumper, TMJ Front bumper, Frankenlinft,
*TOTALED*

1985 Mitsubishi Pickup SP 2.3 Turbo Diesel Watercooled turbo,4D56 ported head,
12" Suspension Lift with JK Rubicon axles, Elockers, 5.13's, Fox coilovers, Atlas 5.0, Rock Lizard supersliders

1996 Lexus LX450 -locked and lifted-


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 Post subject: Thanks!!!
PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2007 7:04 pm 
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(I updated my original post, but wanted to post this again to make sure you know I thank you all for the help, and some may like me, just scroll to the bottom of a thread.)

Thank you all for posting advice and what you did to overcome this obstacle. I ended up removing the lower A-Arm and using ratcheting straps and a bottle jack to manuver the A-Arm back into postion to get the bolts back in after I had attached the clevis to the lower control arm. It's a tough sensored word allright.

I managed to pinch a hole in a lower ball joint boot, and previously had both the top control arm ball joint boots pinched by the rock krapper kit. Any idea how long one can go before they need replacement? What indications are given when they are ready to give it up?

Definately "Miller Time" after that job.

Once again, thanks for the help. Its what makes this an excellent forum. I owe y'all a beer, don't let me forget.

_________________
2006 CRD Sport


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2007 7:18 pm 
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Have you had the recall on your lower balljoints yet? Or was your Jeep under that recall?

Wouldnt be a bad idea to find one of those Grease Gun Needles and pump some grease in it every now and then. Could try putting some RTV or Silicone over the hole to try and keep out dirt and water.

There are many threads on this board on how to test a lower balljoint.. :)

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Current Jeep: 2004 Jeep Liberty
-Atlantic Blue
-Air Ride Rear Suspension ; OME/Rustys Lift ; Powertrax Locker ; Moog Lower Ball-Joints ; 245/70/16 Yokohama Geolander A/T-S's on MOABS ; Flowmaster 50 SUV
Lost #007082
http://www.cardomain.com/id/jeepjeepster


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