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 Post subject: Improving mileage, "tuning up" for summer
PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2007 1:55 pm 
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Location: Berlin, CT
Since there are some complaints, I thought a thread summing up standard and non standard advice might help. There are a lot of variables, many of which are not even CRD specific. The Faq's should be reviewed, but there are new things to add. I'll start the ball rolling, others chime in. I imagine when all is said and done, many of the whiners can get some improvement...even those that work for Consumer Reports:

1) Tire Pressure: supposed to be 33psi on the stocks. But are you really good about measuring the pressure on a cool morning before the sun hits the tiresand you have driven anywhere? Might be surprised at how low yours is! Worth 5% by common lore.

2) Drive the speed limit/2000rpms, use cruise: This was gone over at length, but there is a sharp drop off above 55-65mph (just below 2000rpms) To many tech reasons to list, but don't whine about mileage if you are a speed-demon.

3) Clean the MAP sensor: Don't believe it? Well, it only takes ten minutes, and can't hurt.

4) Change the air filter: Might be nasty in there! Check out the new after-market one.

5) Think about the ORM: hey, try it, you'll like it.

6) Check your Odometer against GPS (or other real data). probably off by as much a 10%

7) Be honest about your driving style: You probably aren't as gentle as you think.

8) Maybe knock off that muffler: your risk is your gain. It will probably still pass inspection.....

9) Where do you get your fuel: This matters the most. Truck stops are usually better.


I'm a alt-fuel kind of guy, but more important is saving money and using less!!

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1 EGRreplacement, but never again.
99.5 FrankenJetta TDI (R.I.P.): being turned into diesel hybrid!
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2007 3:07 pm 
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fresh, full synthetic, front to rear.

fresh iridium plugs (where appropriate).

w/stock size tires: 44psi front 38psi rear (comfortable with front sway bar off, otherwise stick to 38 frt/rear).

aeroturbine instead of no muffler.

lose the roof racks and skidplates (and whichever sway bar(s) you are willing to get rid of) when yur doin the mileage thing.

lose the spare tire and bracket, get a can of fix-a-flat, AAA or 21st, and cell phone.

rear roof spoiler/deflector (helps fill in the huge vacuum behind the jeep while tooling down the road) im sure it has Some positive effect.

acetone in gasoline 2-2.5oz/10 gal. every 5 or 10 tanks, use lucas UCL instead. you can go longer if you use top tier gas.

here's a little secret that will get all liberty owners noticeable gains in low end torque: wrap the entire exhaust system after, and between, cats (if present)...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2007 3:55 pm 
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I know that my distance travelled is about 4%+ off...adjust when figuring mpg of diesel

The new Amsoil EaA201 air filter is helping

Close eye on tire pressure

The 2000 rpm for highway driving does make a big difference

ORM improves both city and highway mileage...also helps your oil stay cleaner and last longer

Remove extra weight safely...the rear seat is not super difficult to remove...about 90# or so...just put the hardware back in the holes so you don't get leaks. Rear sway bar is not very vital unless you tow...front sway bar should stay IMHO with the weight it helps control up front

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Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph


Last edited by DarbyWalters on Tue May 08, 2007 3:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2007 4:15 pm 
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jcphoto20 wrote:
fresh, full synthetic, front to rear.

fresh iridium plugs (where appropriate).

w/stock size tires: 44psi front 38psi rear (comfortable with front sway bar off, otherwise stick to 38 frt/rear).

aeroturbine instead of no muffler.

lose the roof racks and skidplates (and whichever sway bar(s) you are willing to get rid of) when yur doin the mileage thing.

lose the spare tire and bracket, get a can of fix-a-flat, AAA or 21st, and cell phone.

rear roof spoiler/deflector (helps fill in the huge vacuum behind the jeep while tooling down the road) im sure it has Some positive effect.

acetone in gasoline 2-2.5oz/10 gal. every 5 or 10 tanks, use lucas UCL instead. you can go longer if you use top tier gas.

here's a little secret that will get all liberty owners noticeable gains in low end torque: wrap the entire exhaust system after, and between, cats (if present)...



Image

The D curve is for diesels.......

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2007 6:21 pm 
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The "Acetone" might work in some older diesels because it changes surface tension to allow the Diesel to vaporize easier. You can try it in a Jeep Liberty, but the effect will probably be very little to nil. The CRD "blasts" fuel in at such high pressures that atomization/vaporization is physically enhanced.

It can also remove paint and is not really the best thing to be absorbed thru the skin.

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Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2007 8:09 pm 
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What's your source for that graph?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2007 8:14 pm 
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CATCRD wrote:
What's your source for that graph?


http://www.pureenergysystems.com/news/2 ... 9_Acetone/


Though you can take anything like that with a grain of salt. Personally I havent ever noticed an improvement with acetone.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 2:55 pm 
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Acetone's for the birds... It MAY have an effect by cleaning out an old and poorly maintained fuel system but that's about it. Modern injection systems blast fuel into the cylinders at very high pressures and the combustion process is over in a VERY short period of time. There's no way that a small amount of acetone is gonna make any difference to your fuel economy.

John.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 3:50 pm 
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40 psi in the tires

8 oz Power Service, 6 oz Lucas Fuel Treatment, and 1/2 oz biocide per tank

Use OD Lockout button like a shifter, maximizing time in lockup and rpm

Rest of the mods in the sig below.

Averaged better than 27.5 mpg on last two tanks, all local driving

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 4:20 pm 
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this was taken from Ernie Rogers web site. a co-worker and i keep trying to see who can get the best MPG...she drives a VW TDI Bug; and of course she had to send this to me....

"The fuel economy prize was won by Ernie Rogers from Pleasant Grove, Utah. His winning car is a 2003 VW Beetle TDI. He drove 1375 miles to get to the meeting using just 18 gallons of fuel-- 1200 miles of which was accomplished on just one tankfull (15.5 gallons). His trip fuel economy was 76 miles per gallon.

Rogers' car included several small refinements that added up to the exceptional mileage:lower-rolling-resistance tires, low-friction engine oil, and use of a B5 biodiesel blend fuel to increase efficiency and improve emissions.

The hottest topic of conversation at the meeting, and the subject of a popular technical session, was on the benefits of using biodiesel or biodiesel-blend fuels. Most of the attendees were either already using biodiesel or had decided to start. It was noted that research in Canada had shown that a fuel blend with only 1% biodiesel can increase a car's fuel economy by as much as 14% while substantially lowering emissions"

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 4:21 pm 
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I think 40 psi is a big factor. Now that the summer is here, I am going to up the pressure in the stocks. For winter I run them at rec 33 to help with grip in the rain/sleet/snow/endoftheworld crud we get.

And fuel additives really help....now do you count that 6.5 oz into you mileage calc? :lol:

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD w/all the fixings
Elephant Hose, MAF (ORM), Amsoil Airfilter, nice when I get to drive it
1 EGRreplacement, but never again.
99.5 FrankenJetta TDI (R.I.P.): being turned into diesel hybrid!
99.5 Replacement Jetta TDI: deal of a lifetime, EHM, some other stuff


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 5:12 pm 
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One of the first things I did was up my pressures to 40psi. Not only will this yield better fuel mileage, but it will keep down sidewall flexing which generates heat thereby reducing tire wear.

You will sacrifice some grip (easier to spin the tires due to decreased contact patch), but a Jeep isn't a sports car.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 6:52 pm 
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I can confirm/recommend the MAP sensor cleaning. Especially if you haven't ever looked at. Cleaning it should be part of your regular oil change maintenance. I've got 32000 miles, and I was getting 20 mpg city and highway for the last 6000 miles. I thought it was because I put the Rubicon wheels and tires on. When I inspected the MAP sensor it was caked with soot. There was no way it could have been functioning. I cleaned it and I'm back to 30+ highway, 25 city with the bigger tires.

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 Post subject: best way to clean sensor?
PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 8:46 pm 
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I've cleaned mine(MAP) a couple of times with elec parts cleaner and stuffed some paper towel in there to clean...did ok, but no where near shiny. It was still a dull black but at least I could tell what the orig part looked like.

What successful ways have you all found to clean?

wwv


06 Silver Sport
Utah


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2007 10:55 am 
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I second that call for advice. I used electronics parts cleaner and a papertowel, but not shiny. Was afraid to try stronger solvents (maybe biodiesel?) or bushes (old toothbrush?).

Would love some advice on cleaning the MAP, it easy to get to and do.

_________________
2005 Liberty Sport CRD w/all the fixings
Elephant Hose, MAF (ORM), Amsoil Airfilter, nice when I get to drive it
1 EGRreplacement, but never again.
99.5 FrankenJetta TDI (R.I.P.): being turned into diesel hybrid!
99.5 Replacement Jetta TDI: deal of a lifetime, EHM, some other stuff


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2007 12:58 pm 
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BiodieselJeep.com wrote:
I second that call for advice. I used electronics parts cleaner and a papertowel, but not shiny. Was afraid to try stronger solvents (maybe biodiesel?) or bushes (old toothbrush?).

Would love some advice on cleaning the MAP, it easy to get to and do.


I used MAF cleaner (supposedly more gentle on electronic parts and not quite as corrosive as Carb clener) and a NEW toothbrush. They do get still and hard after you use them a couple months. I can pay a couple bucks to avoid scraping up the MAP. I'll bet a short soak of the tip in bio would to a great job, but you'd want to rinse it off after and avoid getting it on the rubber seal.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2007 3:37 pm 
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Yeah, softens rubber very easily. But that probably isn't rubber...They make most seals now fairly solvent-proof. Still, don't want to risk it.

Thanks for the advice, will go clean it again tonight.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD w/all the fixings
Elephant Hose, MAF (ORM), Amsoil Airfilter, nice when I get to drive it
1 EGRreplacement, but never again.
99.5 FrankenJetta TDI (R.I.P.): being turned into diesel hybrid!
99.5 Replacement Jetta TDI: deal of a lifetime, EHM, some other stuff


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2007 8:50 pm 
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Call me a lameo but were is the MAP?
Thanks
Jonathan

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2007 7:38 am 
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svo_jon wrote:
Call me a lameo but were is the MAP?
Thanks
Jonathan


See the CRD FAQ above. Pictures and all :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2007 8:31 pm 
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Thanks

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