Bleeding the brakes cost

hyedipin · **Joined:** Thu May 11, 2006 10:20 am **Posts:** 1667

I got my brakes done at the dealer a WHILE ago, complete pads and machine rotors, all four paid like $500 :oops:

, and since then I ve been driving with brakes that require a good foot on the pedal to stop, I want my touchy brakes back. Otherwise they work great, but needs pressure.

$39 at maineke
is it a rip off, or just about right?

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 4:33 pm

Could be the type of pads that they used also some require more "foot" pressure it seems or do you think they got some air in the lines somehow???

hyedipin · **Joined:** Thu May 11, 2006 10:20 am **Posts:** 1667

tommudd wrote:

Could be the type of pads that they used also some require more "foot" pressure it seems or do you think they got some air in the lines somehow???

It could be either, I guess. It feels really weird. You are right, it could be the pads if it requires more heat to get it to stop, but it feels like my foot has to travel more before it makes proper contact..
They also recently started squeaking at light braking for some reason!

KJ04 · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 5:35 pm

I'd take it back to where you had the brakes done and Complain :!:

q50055 · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 7:30 pm

After I replaced mine 3 years ago, I noticed the same thing. The replacements were mopar brand but were a cheaper second tier item ($50 for pads). The original pads were about $80. Bleeding the brakes was no improvement. My guess is your dealer didn't go with original quality.

SavageUrge · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 7:46 pm

I seriously doubt that you would feel "mush" in the brakes due solely to the pads used. Pads aren't mushy, they are very firm. If you used ceramic pads as those that came stock (at least, on my '03 they were ceramic on all 4 wheels) then the brakes should feel firm like when they were new. I would bet that air got introduced into the brake system due to a hasty bleeding job. Take it back and tell them about it, or you can get yourself a "one-man" brake bleeding kit and do it yourself. They are very inexpensive and handy to have any time you want to do a brake tune-up. I would lean towards taking it back however, since you paid a lot of good money to have them do "professionally"

. Just my 2 cents

DaveKJ02 · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 8:21 pm

If you have ABS, you need the 'puter to bleed them properly.

GPR65 · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 8:22 pm

what i just did was flushed the system. you can do this with 2 people and a NEW can of brake fluid. search google for a write up. with no special tools i bleed all the old fluid out the passenger rear brake and just when the level got almost down to the bottom i filled it with fresh fluid. i then bleed all the tires untill fresh fluid came out and what a difference much better pedal feel.

only cost 6 bucks. 20 mins time

Chris

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 8:46 pm

DaveKJ02 wrote:

If you have ABS, you need the 'puter to bleed them properly.

Yep,that ABS module needs the DRBIII to be bleed correctly.Glad I don't have ABS.

jcphoto20 · **Joined:** Sun Nov 19, 2006 1:36 am **Posts:** 507

maybe your calipers are sticking?

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 9:16 pm

They shouldnt of done anything with the brake fluid if they just replaced the pads. For $500, Im sure they could of screwed something up though. :lol:

QuestMan · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 9:45 pm

Quote:

DaveKJ02 wrote:
If you have ABS, you need the 'puter to bleed them properly.
Yep,that ABS module needs the DRBIII to be bleed correctly.Glad I don't have ABS.

You mean, I have to take my libby to the stealership just to bleed my 'bleedin' brake lines? :shock:

(I've got ABS - but then again, I think we all do.....)

hyedipin · **Joined:** Thu May 11, 2006 10:20 am **Posts:** 1667

It's been a long time and I didn't know about bleeding. So I told them to check the brakes, they said it was "NORMAL" I found out about bleeding and I had never gone back to the same dealer since that time so I didn't have the chance.
How long is it supposed to be, the warranty on brake job!? They area squeaking as well. If it is 2 years or more they gotta fix it, I think it has been over a year, or maybe JUST about a year...

I got ABS, so manual bleeding is not on option.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 10:10 pm

Ive bleed brakes on Jeeps with ABS. Never had a problem doing so and I do not know why a puter would be needed.

Cacher123 · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 10:42 pm

http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/Brakes/beeding.htm

Here's a How-To on bleeding brakes w/ABS. I read through it and except for an extra bleed screw on the ABS unit itself, and 2 extra valves which have to be bled, there is no diff. It's from a Dodge Ram but the steps seem to be the same as a standard non ABS system.

LiLredLibby · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 11:10 pm

DaveKJ02 wrote:

If you have ABS, you need the 'puter to bleed them properly.

In my experience you sometimes do need to use the DRBIII to get the system to bleed.Once in a while you'll get a system where the selinoids won't "Re-home" themselves,or go to a closed or partialy closed mode.When this happens it requires the need for the DRBIII to re-home or open them again.We usually just hook up the DRB from the word go to avoid any possible time delays.Like "tjkj2002" said,the proper or best and quickest way to bleed is with the use of the DRBIII.Again,not saying you can't bleed without it,but with the use of it assures no unexpected problems.

Ron

QuestMan · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 11:26 pm

Quote:

In my experience you sometimes do need to use the DRBIII to get the system to bleed.Once in a while you'll get a system where the selinoids won't "Re-home" themselves,or go to a closed or partialy closed mode.When this happens it requires the need for the DRBIII to re-home or open them again.We usually just hook up the DRB from the word go to avoid any possible time delays.Like "tjkj2002" said,the proper or best and quickest way to bleed is with the use of the DRBIII.Again,not saying you can't bleed without it,but with the use of it assures no unexpected problems.

Ron

Ok. I'm just a little leary. When I went in for the ball-joint recall, I was told I needed new front brakes and rotors. I declined, since I was going to Frankenlift, and would take care of it all at once. WHEN I Franked, I took a look at the brakes, there was better than half the pad left, outboard and inside. The EXACT quote from the dealership was, "You have less than 20% of your brakes left, you NEED to replace your front brakes AND rotors". Translation: my trust in the mechanics at THIS dealer went down, down, down.

The ironic thing is, I work on their switches, routers, printers and PCs. They can't even BILL anyone without my help. I'm the LAST person they want to screw with, and they STILL do it!

Oh, well, the next time their system goes down I'll say, "You have less than 20% of your network left. You'll need to get new routers, switches, and printers...... :lol:

(Ok, Ok. I'll FIX their systems, and won't charge extra. But I can dream, can't I?) :twisted:

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Sat May 19, 2007 12:34 am

QuestMan wrote:

Ok. I'm just a little leary. When I went in for the ball-joint recall, I was told I needed new front brakes and rotors. I declined, since I was going to Frankenlift, and would take care of it all at once. WHEN I Franked, I took a look at the brakes, there was better than half the pad left, outboard and inside. The EXACT quote from the dealership was, "You have less than 20% of your brakes left, you NEED to replace your front brakes AND rotors". Translation: my trust in the mechanics at THIS dealer went down, down, down.

The ironic thing is, I work on their switches, routers, printers and PCs. They can't even BILL anyone without my help. I'm the LAST person they want to screw with, and they STILL do it!

Oh, well, the next time their system goes down I'll say, "You have less than 20% of your network left. You'll need to get new routers, switches, and printers...... :lol:

(Ok, Ok. I'll FIX their systems, and won't charge extra. But I can dream, can't I?) :twisted:

Im sure they say that to everyone that walks in there no matter what.. Good reason why i never go to the dealer. :roll:

hyedipin · **Joined:** Thu May 11, 2006 10:20 am **Posts:** 1667

Jeepjeepster wrote:

Im sure they say that to everyone that walks in there no matter what.. Good reason why i never go to the dealer. :roll:

Me. Exactly what he said to me. And I fell for it!
He also told me diff would blow if he didn't change the oil in rear tcase........

That day I paid $950 or so to the dealer. If it was today, I would have never done it. They got me real good!

QuestMan · **Posted:** Sat May 19, 2007 8:45 am

Not ALL dealers are bad: I messed up the threads on one of my lug nuts, last week, and my closest dealer refused to let me buy a lug nut. Instead, they said, "Here. Don't worry about it". THAT dealer is one I'll go back to. Coincidentally, they are also the ones I bought my Libby from. The dealer that messed with me, was a dodge dealer that happened to have the ball joints for the recall. I would have stuck with my regular dealer, but I was on a waiting list that was stretching into July, and I didn't want to lift until I had the ball joints taken care of.

In any case, I won't mention the 'bad' guys, but I will say Tyler's, in Niles, MI HAS helped me out more than once. (I CAN'T mention the other dealer: I STILL work on their equipment, and there's a fine line between complaining, and 'revenue interruption', which could get my butt in sling).

P.S. Even though I only have my user name in the signature, the fact that I work on most dealerships in about an 80 mi. radius means I have to be REAL careful about what I say. :lol:

Bleeding the brakes cost

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