M Bolts needed...any leads?

BiodieselJeep.com · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 5:12 pm

My kingdom for an "M" Bolt... to save me pulling off my bumper. These are the weird bolts that come with the Front Tow Hook install kits. You might have removed them to put in a brush-bar or something.

Any leads appreciated. Dealers don't seem to sell the part alone.My local partsguys didn't have any.

spoonplugger1 · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 9:04 pm

I just drilled 2 1" holes in the frame bottom behind the hooks with a hole saw, bought some carriage bolts and put a square hole in some steel straight strap that the bolts drop into and acts as a washer/nut when it hits the sides of the frame rail. Fished the bolts/strap through the 1" hole and out the hook holes and put on a lock washers and nuts, done.

Cacher123 · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 9:35 pm

If you want to go the carriage bolt route, Go to a hitch seller and pick up some "Bolt reinforcing plates & bolts". They are small pieces of steel about 2" x 1" with a square hole in them for a carriage bolt. They only cost a couple bucks for 3 or 4. Most hitches that mount to uniframes (including the KJ) use them and they are cheap. Normally they just drop into the frame and a carriage bolt drops through them locking into the square hole in them. The size/shape of them prevents them from spinning inside the frame. You slide them into a large hole in the frame as described above.

BUT first you attach a piece of safety wire (or other stiff wire) to the bolt (wrap around a couple of threads) fish the safety wire through the hole in the backing plate, then fish the free end of it through a hole in the frame that the plate can fit through. Fish the other end out the hole where the bolt will come through, stick the plate up into the hole, pull on the wire and Voila! The plate goes up into the frame, the bolt pops through the plate and out the bolt hole. Remove the safety wire and thread on the nut. Done!

See the link and diagram of the plates & wire trick (they call it a "leader") below:

http://www.lostkjwest.com/tech/hitch.pdf

Of course you can always go get a piece of threaded rod and bend it into an "M" shape. Some people have commented on the strength (or lack of) of doing it this way but from what I can see from unbolting mine is the fact that with everything bolted up tight, the stress wouldn't be on the threaded rod anyway, it would be distributed through to the frame. Much like the stress that's on a hitch pin when you tow a vehicle. Those pins aren't very thick and the take a whole lot more stress.

Metrowest_Kev · **Posted:** Sat May 19, 2007 1:39 am

Try jparts

spencevans · **Posted:** Sat May 19, 2007 3:40 am

Cacher123 wrote:

If you want to go the carriage bolt route, Go to a hitch seller and pick up some "Bolt reinforcing plates & bolts". They are small pieces of steel about 2" x 1" with a square hole in them for a carriage bolt. They only cost a couple bucks for 3 or 4. Most hitches that mount to uniframes (including the KJ) use them and they are cheap. Normally they just drop into the frame and a carriage bolt drops through them locking into the square hole in them. The size/shape of them prevents them from spinning inside the frame. You slide them into a large hole in the frame as described above.

BUT first you attach a piece of safety wire (or other stiff wire) to the bolt (wrap around a couple of threads) fish the safety wire through the hole in the backing plate, then fish the free end of it through a hole in the frame that the plate can fit through. Fish the other end out the hole where the bolt will come through, stick the plate up into the hole, pull on the wire and Voila! The plate goes up into the frame, the bolt pops through the plate and out the bolt hole. Remove the safety wire and thread on the nut. Done!

See the link and diagram of the plates & wire trick (they call it a "leader") below:

http://www.lostkjwest.com/tech/hitch.pdf

Of course you can always go get a piece of threaded rod and bend it into an "M" shape. Some people have commented on the strength (or lack of) of doing it this way but from what I can see from unbolting mine is the fact that with everything bolted up tight, the stress wouldn't be on the threaded rod anyway, it would be distributed through to the frame. Much like the stress that's on a hitch pin when you tow a vehicle. Those pins aren't very thick and the take a whole lot more stress.

All those fishing comments makes me want to break out the waders and float tube.

chetos · **Posted:** Sat May 19, 2007 9:08 am

I must say guys, those are some pretty good ideas. This has been asked many times. could be a sticky because I am sure this will be asked again. :wink:

BiodieselJeep.com · **Posted:** Sun May 20, 2007 9:44 am

Wow, thanks guys. I'll investigate my options.

M Bolts needed...any leads?

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