I’ve been looking for a transmission skid plate for a while; I know I can get a OEM transmission skid plate for about $50.00 including shipping. But I would like a stronger one if possible. But don’t want to pay too much. I know by now it’s been done. So who has fabricated a tranny skid plate? Got any pictures?

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"I'm the guy who does his job, you must be the other guy"
02 Black UNlimited Edition 4X4 Select Trac Liberty Towing/Off Road Packages 245/75/16 on black Moabs
RL diff cover/Super Skink sliders, Rusty's 2.5" Coil Lift w/ clevis lift, Roof basket W/Hella FF75...
On the prowl for an M416/M101/M100 trailer
L.O.S.T. Member 2877

Me
well kinda
Me and the guy who did the welding cam up with one and it will be improved as time goes on

depending on your welding skill you could do it your self
how to do it
1/4" plate as wide as the front lower arms and almost as wide as the tranny mount
use some 1/4 X 1" angle and weld it to look like the pic
The angle fit almost tight between the the front crossmember and the trany crossmember drill holes and bolt up

Note this is the quick version if you like what you see and want more detail let me know

I would think that someone could build a "tube" style cage as a skid. It might take up a little more room but it would be KEWL

It would attach to the uniframe and then be covered with plating. You could almost to the whole underbelly.

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Founder of L.O.S.T.
2006 CRD Sport
Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph

we looked at something like that as an opption when we built this one but we though heat would be an issue
then we talked about building a sub frame from the 1"X1/4" angle with a smaller pcs. of plate to protect the trany pan only but then price got to be an issue

I got to thinking and looking at what the "hold up" is when you high center a KJ or any rig for that matter and it is the "dead ends" of things like the crossmembers that seem to dig in and hang up so when we built this skid we made the back side wider to cover more of the crossmember
If I could do it over I would make the back side even wider probably 4" wider to give better coverage at the crossmember
so that when I come up on a steep hill it slides off better ,it does 50X better than with none but it could be better than what I have now

Keep in mind also that I built this to suit MY wheelin needs
95% of the time when I bottom out it is on dirt or mud so no real issues with "pounding" like you get with rocks