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 Post subject: has this happened to anyone else?
PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 2:25 am 
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Location: Las Vegas, NV.
i have a 2006 liberty renegade, 12,000 miles. i've broken the cable from the 4 wheel drive lever to the transmission. three times! once going to 4L, lucky it stayed in the 2wd gear so i could drive it. twice going from 4wd to 2wd, again lucky it stayed in gear, 4H! i got home but slowly! each time i did what the owner's manual said to do. i've gone wheelin' ten times after the dealer fixed the last one. no problems, but each time i put it in 4wd gear, i say a prayer to the 4x4 gods that the cable doesn't break.

another problem i've had, the "cable" (that's what the dealer said it was) to the power windows broke. again, three times! two times with the driver door. the last time it happened to the left rear door. the window would not stay up and the cable wrapped around the door lock inside the door and i could not open the door! it took the dealer two days to fix that one.

anyway, what gives? i'm i pushing the power window switches to hard? :lol: or do i have a problem with jeep cables? :shock: what"s up!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 7:47 am 
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Location: Big Bear & Lancaster, Ca.
:shock: Unheard of on the transfer case cable. (at least by me)

My driver side power window cable is broken (still, need to find some time for that one) and I have the part to fix it but I'm not looking forward to tearing into the door to do the job. I am once again amazed at how poorly a part of our Jeeps was designed. The plastic sheath around the cable is very brittle and once it cracks it is all over. The cable pops out of the sheath and ends up snaking it's way wherever it wants. Mine comes snaking out of the top of the door panel and the window just sits there. Real nice. I believe it is because that particular door faces the sun all the time as it sits in my driveway and caused the cable sheath to prematurely rot/become brittle and fail. Naturally, when mine failed it was at 36,600 (or so) miles and no more bumper-to-bumper warranty. I am really not looking forward to forking over the $$ for the next one that fails.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 7:53 am 
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The connector on the end of the transfer case cable broke once on mine when they replaced my tranny and put everything back together. I discovered it two days later as I pulled up before entering a muddy road.

No window problems.....yet.... :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 9:38 am 
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So we need to design a Zerk fitting for the door panels? What if I just hose WD40 into the doors each weekend.

I don't know how your T-Case cable keeps breaking. That's nuts!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 10:11 am 
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JJsKJ wrote:
I believe it is because that particular door faces the sun all the time as it sits in my driveway and caused the cable sheath to prematurely rot/become brittle and fail.


While I haven't had that particular problem with the window, I did have to replace the plastic regulator strip a couple of times on the wife's KJ. It's odd how each car has its own quirks.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 3:44 pm 
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I wouldn't use wd-40 on anything that you want to keep lubed. If you need to break it free, yes but it is more of a solvent than an oil.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 6:23 pm 
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USPLibby wrote:
I wouldn't use wd-40 on anything that you want to keep lubed. If you need to break it free, yes but it is more of a solvent than an oil.


At Vandenberg AFB they used to keep the all the ICBMs outter shells covered in WD-40 (invented for the space program) to keep it from rusting from the fog. It was lighter and cheaper than paint.

Just a tid bit, you can now go on with your normal life. :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 7:26 pm 
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Here's a little history on the stuff in case anyone is interested.
WD-40 is the trademark of a widely used penetrating oil (cleaner, lubricant and anti-corrosive solution) spray. It was developed in 1953 by Norm Larsen (then working for the Rocket Chemical Company) to eliminate water and prevent corrosion on electrical circuitry. It also has many household uses.

WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement, 40th attempt", a name which came from Larsen's laboratory notebook. Larsen was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion by displacing water, and arrived at the formula on his 40th try.[1] A common myth is that "WD" stands for "war department".

It was first used by Convair to protect the outer skin of the Atlas missile from rust and corrosion. The product first became commercially available on store shelves in San Diego in 1958.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 9:47 pm 
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First problem is figuring out why the 4x4lever is connected to the tranny. :shock:

Never had such trouble with either on my libby.

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