chadhargis: Yes. With the MAF disconnected, it seems that the CPU still sets up the EGR and AFC valve to be ready to spring into action. This signal on them seems to have them just off the stop. By unplugging both, now they are 100% out of the picture. Now you will see the true effect of the ORM (or how the little diesel will perform without a leash on!)....

Correct me, but is the AFC the same as the FCV? Is this a nomincalture issue?Inquiring (confused) minds want to know.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD w/all the fixings
Elephant Hose, MAF (ORM), Amsoil Airfilter, nice when I get to drive it
1 EGRreplacement, but never again.
99.5 FrankenJetta TDI (R.I.P.): being turned into diesel hybrid!
99.5 Replacement Jetta TDI: deal of a lifetime, EHM, some other stuff

So...dispite the ORM, I'm still sucking in soot and gunk into my intake. GRRRRRRRRRRRR!

I'll see if I can fish around and unplug them.

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Chad Hargis
Nashville, TN
2008 Grand Cherokee CRD
2005 Liberty CRD *SOLD*

To clear up any confusion, the AFC (Air Flow Control) valve, or as the diagram above states # 3, EGR Air Control Valve, etc., that valve in the # 3 spot is causing problems by choking the air into the engine. Now how often, how much, etc, again, if it's disconnected, then that valve springs full OPEN. No more problem.
As far as the EGR valve still sneaking in soot, again, if it is, it probably isn't much as it may be just cracked off the seat. Again, if it is unplugged, then the internal spring holds that valve full SHUT. No soot, or exhaust.
All I'm saying is I did notice a nice difference with both of them unplugged. Your results may vary.

By the way, I now am getting 6 CEL codes. Two of them are P1140 twice. I didn't know you could do that. Hmmmm......

I can only get to the FCV to unplug and I get a constant code 1140 even with the scangauge. I can't turn this code off.

I have tried and tried but just can't get the EGR valve unplugged

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O|||||||O

LOST #-169388
'79 CJ-5
32x11.50x15
304 V8

'08 Chevorlet HHR
Victory Red
Stock for now.

I only unplugged the FCV and have noticed the aux fan running after I shut my vehicle down. I have never heard this fan running before, and I have driven on much hotter days than the 98 today. Does this have any correlation to not allowing the valve to meter air, and so the engine can run hotter?

Also, it does shut down with a more pronounched shudder, but not all that bad.

Still have not found that EGR plug. It would be nice to see a picture. Email me one and I'll attempt to post it.

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2006 CRD Sport

Don't want to totally jack this thread,.. but the FCV is related so...

What I was thinking is that the vacuum would help it brake the same way it helps a gasser brake. When the vacuum is created with a partially closed FCV doesn't the engine have to pump against the vacuum the same way a gasser does (it is trying to pull air in the motor and that air is not there)? Is this not one of the reasons a diesel gets better mileage than a gasser-- it does not suffer from the vacuum pumping loss the gas engine suffers from constantly, except at WOT. I know this is one reason gas motors engine brake very well when downshifting, but most diesels don't slow as much when downshifting-- they just rev higher.

Maybe this vacuum loss is a reason why many have poor mileage-- the FCV is closing a bit even with the EGR off (like at idle) and causing the motor to pump against the little bit of vacuum.

A potential worry to using this to brake is out of spec heat generated by a different fuel/air mapping. Another is that you are lowering the high compression ratio of the diesel by putting less air in it and this may cause an ignition failue/poor ignition. Interestingly, could the latter also be a contributor to the .... "buck and shudder"? Especially when letting off the pedal after a hard acceleration as the software is busy trying to adjust from WOT back to cruise and closing the FCV valve (maybe more than it should), especailly with the shoot covered MAP sensor sending it data from the land of make-believe.

I don't know about the engine needing any vacuum to help it brake. I do know that they added turbos to push even more air through to make them more efficient. Also it seems to me that it only takes so much energy to make a vacuum. It takes more energy to compress air, especially if it can't get out, so more air gets compressed.
I have been in a few diesel trucks with exhaust brakes and they do work, and quite well too. All have been on the exhaust side.

I also found out today to clear all 6 CEL codes, everything has to be hooked up and working. Otherwise, there was always two codes that wouldn't clear.

And..........Drum roll..........We are getting real close to a working circuit!!!! Got the last piece of the puzzle figured out today, and now some tweaking, and it should be done. I'm 7/8 of the way there.........Hopefully tomorrow.......

It seems I unplugged the FCV and the Glow Plugs, lol. So I need to track down the EGR yet. I have some pictures of my motor here: http://www.bbertram.com/gallery2/main.p ... temId=9737

Can anyone point out the EGR to me. That is the FCV below the disconected plugs in picture 4 right? Its funny, that I disconnected my glow plugs and the FCV and still gained mileage and some power. Now if I connect my glow plugs and disconnect my egr I might get more power and better mileage, I sure hope so.

I guess I now know why I thew 6 CELs, lol.

You can't actually see the egr valve from topside of the engine, at least not casually. You have to peer down below the bottom of the fuel filter, toward the engine, using a flashlight. It takes some effort even when you're standing in front of the real thing. Pictures from the top are going to be difficult to see the egr. It's hidden by the intake manifold.

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2005 LTD CRD RB1 NAV/Htd Leather seats/Amsoil EA filters
SunCoast Mega Trans & Billet TC/PML pan/Aux cooler
Fuel cooler/Lift Pump/10um Pri/Racor R490 2um Sec Fuel Filters
IronMan Lift/Shocks/Provent/Moog ball joints/ V6 Airbox/Fan/Hayden
Cobalt Boost/EGT/Oil/Trans/Volt gauges/Aeroturbine 2525
Yeti Hot Tune/Odessey 65/Samco's/Michelin Defenders

OK, I re-read another post about trying to find the EGR and I think I know where to find it now. I will track her down today and try and take a picture for others.

EGR MISSION: IMPOSSIBLE!! absolutely impossible for me to dsconnect the EGR plug without removing something.

Best approaches:
From Above:
Leaning over (laying on) engine from front, use LEFT hand, reach down to thespace on the (passenger side) of the fuel filter and to the driver side of a rough surfaced aluminium elbow, reach down around and under the mettal elbow ( leads to the intake manifold). Tucked up right pointing into the engine (horizontally) under there feel for a ttached plug, round. Two wires go into a round plug which is housed in one of those plastic DC push-snap attachments. If you have strong yet thin and small hands, you can squeeze the right piece of plastic with your thumb to un-snap th attachment and pull the plug....I can't. Hurts like helll and there is a rubber hose there making it harder.

From below:

Get FAR under the Jeep and reach up with right hand. Sightline that same elbow to the mainfold. The EGR plug wires are in that corregated protective plastic piping...follow it up to the engine or just feel around against the engine under the elbow until you feel the plug. Again, good luck, I couldn't do it.

There ain't no way to take pictures. Nor can I squeeze and pull that darn plug. I'd clip the f-ing wires at this point but I have inspection next month. Anybody got an idea for a small pliers or tool to squeeze/pull that thing?

FCV was a breeze.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD w/all the fixings
Elephant Hose, MAF (ORM), Amsoil Airfilter, nice when I get to drive it
1 EGRreplacement, but never again.
99.5 FrankenJetta TDI (R.I.P.): being turned into diesel hybrid!
99.5 Replacement Jetta TDI: deal of a lifetime, EHM, some other stuff

I was able to stick a long, skinny screwdriver down between the intake elbow and the motor and get the connector loose. I got the screwdriver under the latch and used leverage at the same time and finally got it off. It's a pain!

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My Jeep Liberty page

ORM, air filter mod, and less restrictive exhaust has increased my 'everyday' driving 3 mpg.

I GIVE UP...been tryin to unplug the EGR fer 2 hours.....Hell... i cant even find the plug....maybe its a blessing...I did get the air flow plug done. will that improve anything without the EGR being unplugged?

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05 Libby Sport CRD
Dark Kahki
Joliet Illinois
Puchased in hopes of burning
home brewed biodiesel
Waiting for a TC cure first

Yeeeeeee Hawwwwww It works...It works.... It works...........
Ok, 125+ miles, over 30+ start-stop cycles, and no CEL! No EGR, No AFC. The circuit is keeping the CPU very happy. I even added in pin 41 from the transmission CPU to put the AFC back in for shutdown (in park). This is nice. I even scanned it and it says "Pass, no codes returned." This is nice!

So, I am in the process of putting together a parts list of where to buy the stuff, and a PDF file with pictures, the schematic, etc. and how I did mine. I do not feel comfortable making any of these and selling them. You guys are on your own on building this circuit. I'll have pictures on how I constructed mine, and I'll be glad to answer questions, but I hope you understand. I don't want to be in hot water because some fool doesn't want to keep this for "Off Road."

I did cut my wiring harness and put in a connector, so the circuit can be disconnected and a jumper plug put in to restore everything back to original. (Yes there are pictures of this too). Trust me, cutting the harness and splicing wires was a whole lot easier then looking for the stupid EGR connector! Only took about 2 hours to do the whole harness mod.

Since you are working with computer signals, DO NOT use crimp connector splices! We are not wiring up trailers here. YOU WILL use solder and heatshrink for this to work, so be forewarned.
I'll get this posted sometime next week after I get it all rounded up.......

I got the EGR unplugged! At least I think it was the right plug...It has a red and blue wire and the plug is a six pin connector, right?? Here is how, at least for me. I got under the vehicle with my feet pointing out the passenger side. You can see the rough cast aluminum elbow comming down and forward. Feel that elbow, them move your hand directly towards the engine. You will feel 2 wires going into a round horizontal connector plug. This plug has one of those sliding tabs on the front side. I used my fingernail to slide the tab out slightly (which would be sliding the tab towards the vehicle's left or driver's side) and wiggled the connector plug off. Hope this helps, Mykol

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05 Silver KJ Limited CRD born July 11, 2005
'88 Suzuki Samurai 4x4
'99 1/2 Powerstroke 4 door Dually 4x4
Kubota B7200 Diesel 4x4
Polaris 700 and 500 H.O. 4x4

YIPPEEEEEE

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Dave

'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights

Woa, this is BIG!!! Thank You!

Meanwhile, can anyone explain why having both FCV and MAF unplugged (but not EGR) seems like LESS butt-dyno than just MAF alone? I'm thinking that the FCV default is partially closed, but that would be stupid. Not unheard of at DC, but stupid. I'll check today.

Any other people notice thisdecrease from MAF to MAF + FCV unplugged? Bodes adly for the electronic fix if some sort of default is "partial" egr.

Ugh.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD w/all the fixings
Elephant Hose, MAF (ORM), Amsoil Airfilter, nice when I get to drive it
1 EGRreplacement, but never again.
99.5 FrankenJetta TDI (R.I.P.): being turned into diesel hybrid!
99.5 Replacement Jetta TDI: deal of a lifetime, EHM, some other stuff

If you have big hands, and your fingers are not slim and very strong, I would leave the EGR alone and just do the ORM
for now. I tried from top and bottom and could not get enough catch on the release to even budge the EGR connection.
Tried taking photos, but too far up under there. Even removed the fuel filter head and tried bending my arm around under
there, both right and left, all I have are skinned up wrists to show for it. So for now, the ORM will be it till I see
the setup by TurboTim. With the ORM after 3000 miles there is only discoloration, with nothing visible on the sensor, so
probably a light amount of EGR may be getting through, but I would venture less than 10%.

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2005 Silver Limited CRD 53,000 miles
GDE EcoTune / Trans tune
PML Differential Cover/Crankcase Mod
Tal & Hadas Grill Guard/TransGo Shift Kit
V-6 AirBox/Lunar Boost & EGT
Lund Cold Weather Grill Insert
OEM updated Filter Head, Cummins Lift Pump

Cool, that is great news! Wish someone would make this for those of us not confident in making this mod on our own. Thank you for all the hard work you have done.