fuel head fix

Tinman · **Joined:** Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:45 am **Posts:** 308

I was going to get the Cat filter, but you guys have me thinking. It may be better to just replace the whole head with a real filter. The Racor is a good unit. We just need someone to get one and see if it will fit. I don't really care about the WIF, especeially is there is a bowl to look into for water. A heater is necessary, but it doesn't have to be hooked into the stock wiring. It would also be nice to get rid of the banjo fittings for better flow. I'll be watching this thread closely.

techTim · **Posted:** Fri Jun 08, 2007 5:03 am

watching this thread too, glad it is getting the interest of LanduytG, if it proves out, will be a great addition to the CRD and Greg's site/store IMHO. :wink:

Jeger · **Posted:** Fri Jun 08, 2007 6:44 am

Yeah....Im watching it too.

Just yesterday I had to leave work to go bleed the air out for my wife...it was bad enough that it wouldnt start. So I guess I cant say I have had no trouble anymore :roll:

Now to find the leak...

dgeist · **Posted:** Fri Jun 08, 2007 9:34 am

Jeger wrote:

Yeah....Im watching it too.

Just yesterday I had to leave work to go bleed the air out for my wife...it was bad enough that it wouldnt start. So I guess I cant say I have had no trouble anymore :roll:

Now to find the leak...

Likewise... I have the CAT conversion and the filter head has been nothing but trouble since the conversion. Initially, the crappy puck gasket was sucking in air. I disassembled and replaced it with the original gasket from the mopar filter (excellent find, BTW) and smeared it with pedro's syn-grease (made for bicycle parts to not soften plastic). It's better, now, but I'm still having my stall/bleed/crank about once a week. I know in my heart that having the cat filter was a good move, but it's SOOOO frustrating to have to bleed my fuel lines just to drive the 4 miles to work...

Greg, or anyone with access to diesel industry parts, do y'all have any photos of the WIF/heater/temp sensor units that would be used in industrial applications? I'd love to see if the wiring is compatible. Don't care about the WIF that much, but the temp sensor and the heater are kinda important.

Dan

bbertram · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2005 4:17 pm **Posts:** 144

dgeist wrote:

Likewise... I have the CAT conversion and the filter head has been nothing but trouble since the conversion. Initially, the crappy puck gasket was sucking in air. I disassembled and replaced it with the original gasket from the mopar filter (excellent find, BTW) and smeared it with pedro's syn-grease (made for bicycle parts to not soften plastic). It's better, now, but I'm still having my stall/bleed/crank about once a week. I know in my heart that having the cat filter was a good move, but it's SOOOO frustrating to have to bleed my fuel lines just to drive the 4 miles to work...

I'm in the same boat, she stalls every once in a while after the conversion. Its simple enough to get going again, give her about 5 pumps, crank it for about 5 seconds and your off. It has never stalled on me while driving only when its just sitting there.

crdmike · **Joined:** Tue May 16, 2006 7:25 pm **Posts:** 138

LanduytG wrote:

Stan
The heater is in the bowl. I don't have it on my site. I do have a unit here that I bought and never used but it does not have the heater.

Greg

Greg:

Get R Done, we need a fix and you're the man!

skywarn · **Posted:** Fri Jun 08, 2007 2:22 pm

ive never had anyprobs with my Cat filter... not one leak, and no heater "burn out"

Cowcatcher · **Posted:** Fri Jun 08, 2007 4:25 pm

Did those with CAT filter issues remove the head and hoses or just work on the head inplace with everything connected?

Thanks

GilaMonster · **Posted:** Fri Jun 08, 2007 5:36 pm

Someone asked how the WIF sensor works, it is just an open circuit with two prongs, when there is enough water in the filter to touch both of them, they make the circuit and activate the WIF warning.

Also, I replaced my fuel filter recently and found using the mighty-vac on the bleeder to be quite easy to get the air out.

chadhargis · **Posted:** Fri Jun 08, 2007 7:15 pm

I use a brake bleeder cup on mine. I have a vaccum bleeder, but that's sort of overkill with the prime pump right there. I just connect the brake bleeder cup to the valve. Open the valve, and pump the primer until no air bubbles exist. Then I close the bleeder.

I have no issues with air in the line. My CRD starts on the first try within a second or so.

dgeist · **Posted:** Sun Jun 10, 2007 4:51 pm

Cowcatcher wrote:

Did those with CAT filter issues remove the head and hoses or just work on the head inplace with everything connected?

Thanks

The former...twice.

Cowcatcher · **Posted:** Sun Jun 10, 2007 5:32 pm

dgeist wrote:

Cowcatcher wrote:

Did those with CAT filter issues remove the head and hoses or just work on the head inplace with everything connected?

Thanks

The former...twice.

Thanks.

skywarn · **Posted:** Mon Jun 11, 2007 10:09 am

Cowcatcher wrote:

Did those with CAT filter issues remove the head and hoses or just work on the head inplace with everything connected?

Thanks

I removed the whole head and worked on it on my bench, And i have had no problems with the re-install no leaks, vac probs or heater probs...

Ranger1 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 17, 2005 7:40 pm **Posts:** 1137

Quote:

I removed the whole head and worked on it on my bench, And i have had no problems with the re-install no leaks, vac probs or heater probs...

Did you use a sealer on the threaded insert? How tight did you tighten the inner threaded insert and the filter?

bbertram · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2005 4:17 pm **Posts:** 144

I don't think I bled the fuel system out properly. I bought the new bleeder kit and installed it, so I can see the fuel and air come out when I prime it. If I prime it enough should I eventually see just straight fuel or will there always be air in there? I pumped out about half a water bottle of fuel and got constant bubbles and air pockets in the line. Should I have kept priming till the air was gone and I got straight fuel? It stalls on me just about everyday after its just been sitting there for a few hours. It has never stalled once its running though, so it doesn't seem to be sucking in air then, only when it sits.

Cowcatcher · **Posted:** Mon Jun 11, 2007 10:35 am

bbertram wrote:

I don't think I bled the fuel system out properly. I bought the new bleeder kit and installed it, so I can see the fuel and air come out when I prime it. If I prime it enough should I eventually see just straight fuel or will there always be air in there? I pumped out about half a water bottle of fuel and got constant bubbles and air pockets in the line. Should I have kept priming till the air was gone and I got straight fuel? It stalls on me just about everyday after its just been sitting there for a few hours. It has never stalled once its running though, so it doesn't seem to be sucking in air then, only when it sits.

I have my CAT sitting here to install but I am a little gun shy since I have never had air problems and don't really wish to start but it isn't just related to the CAT as others seem to have had it always. There must be a common cause.

With respect to your bleed job, you pumped a lot of fuel to still be getting air IMHO. I think you have a major air leak someplace.

bbertram · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2005 4:17 pm **Posts:** 144

Cowcatcher wrote:

bbertram wrote:

I don't think I bled the fuel system out properly. I bought the new bleeder kit and installed it, so I can see the fuel and air come out when I prime it. If I prime it enough should I eventually see just straight fuel or will there always be air in there? I pumped out about half a water bottle of fuel and got constant bubbles and air pockets in the line. Should I have kept priming till the air was gone and I got straight fuel? It stalls on me just about everyday after its just been sitting there for a few hours. It has never stalled once its running though, so it doesn't seem to be sucking in air then, only when it sits.

I have my CAT sitting here to install but I am a little gun shy since I have never had air problems and don't really wish to start but it isn't just related to the CAT as others seem to have had it always. There must be a common cause.

With respect to your bleed job, you pumped a lot of fuel to still be getting air IMHO. I think you have a major air leak someplace.

Not a big water bottle but about 250 ml worth.

skywarn · **Posted:** Mon Jun 11, 2007 11:40 am

Ranger1 wrote:

Quote:

I removed the whole head and worked on it on my bench, And i have had no problems with the re-install no leaks, vac probs or heater probs...

Did you use a sealer on the threaded insert? How tight did you tighten the inner threaded insert and the filter?

I really dont know why im not having probs...

i removed the head unit from the fire wall
took it apart, carb cleaned the whole thing. including the heater
removed the fuel filter screw.
poured a good amount of B-12 in screw hole. (looked like there was rust and gunk that had come loose)
:shock:

this could be the diff... i took a pick set and cleaned out the threads of the filter screw.. there was a lot of loc tight still in there which could poss cause a leak if not cleaned out...
got new screw (the one from the kit) and put Med loc tight on it. used my fingers till it stopped then used a wrench for 1.5 turns.
put rubber ring on screw.
dipped top of fuel filter in Bio
screwd fillter on (same way as an oil filter... til it stopps then 1/4 turn)
replaced head unit back on fire wall.
:oops:

forgot to prime... started jeep and it ran for 10 sec then died...
opened bleed screw, pumped till full can pouring out... closed screw
"bumped" starter 4 times... then bled fuel again (same way as above)
turned key to full on and have never looked back.

Ranger1 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 17, 2005 7:40 pm **Posts:** 1137

You confirmed what I was thinking might be the reason for some leaks - a combination of carefully cleaning all of the old loctite out of the threaded insert and head, using some new locktite plus not overtightening the insert and filter when re-assembling.

dgeist · **Posted:** Tue Jun 12, 2007 1:12 pm

Ranger1 wrote:

You confirmed what I was thinking might be the reason for some leaks - a combination of carefully cleaning all of the old loctite out of the threaded insert and head, using some new locktite plus not overtightening the insert and filter when re-assembling.

After doing it twice, I noticed something that might be telling on the filter head. There are machined ridges in the aluminum hear which I assume are to make a barrier by pressing into the gasket, well, there are a few places on mine where they look to have been chipped in manufacturing (and painted over) and therefore unless you get the original gasket in the exact location, etc, then it'd next to impossible to re-seal the darned thing.

Has anyone had the dealer replace the head after having done the CAT mod? I'd love to just try it out with a new one (and new gaskets which they DON'T sell

) but I'm guessing any dealer will take one look and say "well, it's that aftermarket filter that's leaking."

Dan

fuel head fix

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