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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2007 8:38 am 
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Traction Control? I didn't know the lil' oiler had such a feature. Hmmm, I'll look into that. I don't think it does as I have done some "Drifting" of my own on some dirt roads and nothing kicked in. In fact, I like the way it squeaks the tires on the pavement when I kick it under the tail!

I haven’t done the ProVent. I just pulled the hose out where it goes into the turbo intake, blocked the hole with a 1/2 steel bolt (I think it was 1/2 inch). Then I stuck about 3' of that 1/2 stiff plastic drip water line in the rubber hose that comes from the valve cover vent, and ran that straight down and curved it slowly so it pops out next to the oil filter. I was surprised by how much smoke does come out of there sometimes. Anyway I’m not putting that crap back into my motor anymore. I know my Cummings doesn't put it in their engine either. I have noticed maybe every other day, there will be a tiny black drip of oil on the garage floor where it’s parked. Not a big deal to me. Very easy to put back if and when a Gestapo inspection has to be done.....


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2007 9:40 am 
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boilermaker2 wrote:
Tim, if you're going to do this, do you need to install a provent valve as well to protect the bypassed components from soot build-up?
Boiler


Provent (or other) filter is a good idea regardless. The two mods are definitely complementary, but not dependencies of each other. The circuit ( that Turbo designed, not mine) does put all operational components back to stock when the tranny is in P/N, so at startup/shutdown time, your parts will get their workout. If buildup is a concern, you can WOT it in neutral once in a while and blow the soot out (in addition to periodic component cleaning, of course) :wink:

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245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2007 9:58 am 
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2006 CRDs do have ESP, TC, ROM, BA, ABS...

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2006 CRD Sport

Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2007 10:06 am 
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Turbo Tim wrote:
Ok, I got my project box completed, made a mounting bracket, and got it installed. Cleared all the CEL codes, and now about 10 miles later, 4 or 5 start and stop cycles, no CEL light! YEEE Hawww. I'm a happy camper! Remember this is only for them Off Road adventures only.
See the latest pics on the web site: http://picasaweb.google.com/Turbo4tim/Ckt
Anyone else get theirs built yet?.....


...negative. Nice clean board, though :D Did you do a board layout diagram for it or just eyeball the connections (And I just remembered I have a friend with access to a prototyping machine that'll do foil circuit paths....)

Hey, if I mounted it on the driver's side, I could use it as a fuel heater AND use the heater leads for START/ON and GROUND. Does mouser have resistor heat-sinks with 1/4" NPT fittings :P

Dan

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2005 Silver CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2007 11:58 am 
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Tim,

Found a small error on your schematic, Looks like you got pin 3 of the LM324 on their twice, I believe that you want pin 4 connected to +12v, Schematic shows pin 3 on the comparator handling the CPU EGR output signal.

Cheers

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Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 1:23 pm 
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You think if you can get your hands on that EGR plug that you can get it off, not so. I can get my hands on it from up top and down below, either way I can not get the plug off. I guess I will just have to live with it plugged in for now or until the circuit board is produced.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 12:24 am 
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until I have the circuit built, or somebody builds a couple extra for profit, I decided to run with the engine killers unplugged. managed to get the plug off the egr after putting the front end up on the ramps, laying on the ground drivers side with feet pointing back to the drivers side rear wheel. no doubt this is a bugger of a plug, it seems to have a catch on one side of it, there is a flat side and what feels like a press or slide safety. With the hoses and wires around it I can' t even see the thing. didn't notice a power difference from the ORM, but after I prime the fuel pump and clean the MAP sensor this weekend I plan on getting some MPG numbers.

dgeist, is your buddy with the foil machine interested in building these? :idea: :?:

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 8:23 am 
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Tim can you update your schematic with any of the above changes? I have been having E-mail issues which should be corrected this week. I will send this schematic out for quote with a local vendor. I will be shooting for 50 boards and when the first comes in you will be the first!

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 2:41 pm 
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I may be loosing my mind, but now when I plug and unplug the MAF, I can't fell the difference. Could it be plugged up or (worse) plugged OPEN?!

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Elephant Hose, MAF (ORM), Amsoil Airfilter, nice when I get to drive it
1 EGRreplacement, but never again.
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99.5 Replacement Jetta TDI: deal of a lifetime, EHM, some other stuff


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 3:11 pm 
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I unplugged the MAF this weekend and I did feel a bit more snap. Seems like less turbo lag???

On the brighter side I will be getting a quote in the next week on these boards.

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2006 Liberty Sport CRD, Provent CCV mod


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 7:44 pm 
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Weantright, no kidding, a ready made box for the above fix?

where do I sign?! :D

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....more to come.....


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 7:54 pm 
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I recalled that some in another hobby that I am involved with purchase basic PC boads and create small circuits by scribing the boards to create the paths. I did a quick internet search for "PC BOARDS" and found that there were a number of small houses willing to build small runs of special boards for the $30 range. I am sure that there is a small market out there if someone wishes to go for it.

Second note though is there never was a response out there regarding the possible impact on the ESP system. I would like to hear from Mr. Mopar (who has gone very silent) or someone else in the know to see if this disables things we do not know about. I would also like to see some longer term trials to see if there are any hidden issues. This is a little more than pulling the MAF sensor plug.

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'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 9:01 pm 
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Hey Dgeist, you stated that when in park/neutral all the components are switched back in, well not quite. The MAF is already there. ONLY the AFC valve gets put back in for shutdown. The EGR never sees action (unless you unplug the circuit and put the 3 jumpers in).

My circuit layout was done on one of those prototyping breadboards. I just grouped the parts and then used some jumpers underneath to connect it. (28 AWG Wire Wrap Wire). Since I was only making one of these, I didn’t think it was worth the time and effort to layout a board. If this works for a week or so in the Jeep, then I plan on removing it and pouring in an epoxy potting compound to seal it up for vibration and moisture protection.

Some of you may have noticed that I have two of those aluminum power resistors. I already had two 5.1 Ohm, 10 Watt resistors in my junk box so I used them. (Two 5.1 Ohm, 10 watt resistors in series is the same as a single 10.2 Ohm, 20 Watt. Close enough for me). By using a aluminum box, it dissipates the heat nicely.

Hey Bugnout, good call on catching my mistake on the power pin on the LM324. (Pin 4 is power). Also make note that the schematic changed on the LM324. On pin 13 of the LM324, the value of the resistor changed from a 1K to a 10K resistor, and a 1N4148 was added for protection. (What happened was when I compared the schematic to the proto board, this is what was on the proto, and since that works, I updated everything).

IMPORTANT: (Weantright) Before you go getting a board layout done, pick an aluminum enclosure, mount the connector and 20 Watt resistor, then figure out how big the circuit board can be. Then go and have the layout fit the board size. Now it will drop in and be less hassle. Don’t forget to have the mounting holes accounted for also. I used two of the 4 screws on that plastic circular connector (square base) as mounting screws for the circuit board. The other end on my build wedges between the power resistor and a mounting screw for the power resistor, for a total of three mounting points. When it gets potted, it won’t matter as it can’t move at all then.
Still looking into the ESP System. Will let you know what I find out…


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 8:04 am 
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techTim wrote:
Weantright, no kidding, a ready made box for the above fix?

where do I sign?! :D



My attempt will fall short for a true plug and play unit. I have neither the time or experience to spec out these connectors however this board will have .25" male connectors for a quick disconnect and/or wire harness. The shop quoting the board has a good understanding of the environment this board will be in. A request of automotive quality components with moisture preventive coating will be quoted. Anyone out there with knowledge of this sort feel free to PM me with any quality, reliability and durability issues you foresee.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 9:17 am 
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You guys are fantastic!

I have learned so much from this forum. I've made little electronic gizmos in project boxes before, but never knew there were places that would produce them for you. The last thing I made was a headphone amp, only to find out a company called "boosteroo" made a bunch of money off the same darn thing. :(

This thing looks WAY too complicated for me though.

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2008 Grand Cherokee CRD
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 8:14 pm 
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As far as the ESP goes, on my 2005 there doesn't seem to be any ESP. It seems that they only did that for the 2006. Can the ESP be added to a 2005? This would be cool. I don't see any impact on the ESP system by scanning the diagrams. I really don't think anything will change with the ORM circuit added. I'll keep looking......


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 8:25 pm 
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Turbo Tim wrote:
As far as the ESP goes, on my 2005 there doesn't seem to be any ESP. It seems that they only did that for the 2006. Can the ESP be added to a 2005? This would be cool. I don't see any impact on the ESP system by scanning the diagrams. I really don't think anything will change with the ORM circuit added. I'll keep looking......


Does the ESP reduce power with a valve? It would seem like it does it programatically-- thru a request on the bus-- and not by using a mechanical device? It would seem cheaper and more effective than messing with intake valves, thats for sure. (CRD's have fly-by-wire throttle anyway, if I am not mistaken).


Last edited by Pablo on Tue Jun 12, 2007 10:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 9:45 pm 
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I think you are right on ESP not being on the 2005. As I recall a retrofit was considered by others here and after they looked at the complexity and cost they decided against it. ESP involves multiple systems and I belive includes throttle, brakes, BMC, ECM and other elements. Someone did a write-up, I believe in the General section....perhaps Mr. Darby...that gave a better description of what was involved and how it works.

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'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2007 5:40 am 
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ESP should reduce power through injector control or supression. I can't think of a conflict between the ORM circuit and ESP.

- Chris


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 Post subject: ESP is on 2006 models only
PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2007 10:01 am 
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Turbo Tim wrote:
As far as the ESP goes, on my 2005 there doesn't seem to be any ESP. It seems that they only did that for the 2006. Can the ESP be added to a 2005? This would be cool. I don't see any impact on the ESP system by scanning the diagrams. I really don't think anything will change with the ORM circuit added. I'll keep looking......


The 2005 models had the (optional) trac-lock and the 2006 models do not. 2006 may have ESP issues by the 2005 models should not.

In 2006, the Libbys were given roll-over protection but the trac-lock had to go for them to be able to do that. The ESP is mostly electronic in nature. The trac-lock is mechanical. The trac-lock interfered with ESP so it was removed and replaced with a system that works by sensors that detect wheelspin at any of the four wheels. When this happens, the brake on that wheel is actuated and the power is sent to another wheel.

This, and the possible curtain airbags on the side, were the only "major improvements" that I can remember when I shopped the two model years. None of the '05 models have rollover protection but they all have anti-lock braking standard.

Since I knew the trac-lock was a proven technology, I bought an '05 when I could have had an '06. This, and the price at the time, were a couple of the determining factors in my purchase. :wink:

Boiler


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