mcnaughb wrote:
Well...on the advice of some and against the advice of others, I went ahead and purchased a low mileages '06 limited. Now...1400 miles into it I'm beginning to regret my purchase.
My transmission is intermittently shifting very hard and throwing codes. Specifically P0700, P0876, P0765, P0750. I've had it at the dealer now for over a week and they have replaced the ECM, TCM, and transmission valve body (which includes all the shift solenoids). They hooked up the tranny to a spider like device with all sorts of hoses and gauges for measuring hydraulic pressure and valve operation. Hydraulic operation appears to be OK.
Luckily I haven't sold my other car yet, otherwise I would be S.O.L. for transportation.
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks.
First idea - don't panic. It's a natural reaction when a transmission goes bad on you. It feels really bad, but it's not the end of the world, nor does it necessarily mean the vehicle is cursed. If your CRD was going to have this problem its better to get it on record early and start the resolution process now. Several of us have lived through catastrophic transmission failures in live traffic and are still driving our CRD's and enjoying them. We can even speak about it in English now. You're actually fortunate that you have codes - if you have problems and no codes, in dealership speak, you have no problem.
Second idea - it's a good sign that your dealership has the equipment to measure the hydraulic pressure on the valve body. It's a very good sign. What you don't want is the blank stares, the shuffling of papers and leaving the keys with the clerk when you show up. If they can run the diagnostics on the valve body, they can determine if they have good transmission pump pressure (very important) correct in-gear, up and down shift pressure and torque converter pressure. If they have someone who knows what those pressures are supposed to be, they can at least identify any obvious shift issues related to the valve body.
Third idea - If they release it to you and say it's fixed, ask them to explain in plain English exactly what the problem was. Write down what they say is fixed in front of them. Then take it out on a stretch of road where you can test it thoroughly - as in city driving shifting up and down, stoplights to make sure the engine isn't lugging badly and you have to step on the brake with 2 feet to keep it stopped (mine used to work like that occasionally) and then Interstate driving, passing and overdrive lockout. If it isn't right, take it back immediately. Don't compromise on this one. I speak from experience.
Don't let the pressure of "I don't have time for this now" deter you. If you don't make time for it, you'll lose the time later on the side of the road anyway. This means you need to pick it up in the morning rather than late afternoon. If it isn't right when you get it back, it isn't going to get better on its own. If codes pop up, the hard shifting or any other loud noises or funky behavior happens, take it back and leave it.
Fourth idea - if it starts acting up again after working correctly for a while, take it in immediately. Get it on record that it's still not correct.
Fifth idea - if it takes more than 3 dealer visits and it's still not right, it's decision time. Do you like it enough to keep it and stick with the repairs until its right, or is your tolerance of vehicle breakdowns just below what your CRD can give you? If you can't take the stress and the dealer can't make it right, calmly calculate what the cost will be to take it to a very reputable, very competent transmission shop versus the trade-in loss and multiple car rentals.
The dealer make be somewhat constrained by Chrysler's current situation of just being sold, and some confusion may be occurring between your dealer and the corporation. Make your decision when calm and not angry over the situation. Once you decide, stick with it.
Good luck and keep us posted on how it's working out.