Tim is there a way to test the circuit? - I mean without hard wiring it into the system?

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Yes there is, but you will need some test equipment.
You will need an O'Scope, a signal generator, an adjustable DC power supply to supply 1-5 Volts (MAF signal), and another DC power supply to power it up at 12 VDC, and a volt-Ohm meter.

I guess I should start writing up a test-check-out procedure. Let me think about this as there might be a way to hook it up to the car but don't have it control anything yet....Hmmmm......

So does anybody have any thoughts on whether the EGR or FCV will still function - should they ever need to be reconnected - after effectively being disabled for a long period of time?

I've only paid a passing glance or two at this thread. But now that I just had another P0401 CEL (EGR/FCV) come on - we'll this mode is starting to look more attractive.

Anybody know if they do diesel inspections in Maryland?

What was the general consensus on inspections anyway? Was it something to be worried about?

Understand that the EGR CEL code gets set because one or both components are not working. The EGR and/or AFC valve can throw this code. It gets set because the MAF doesn't report enough of a drop in air flow when the EGR or AFC kicks in. The real reason is maybe the AFC is sticking. It can be checked by pulling off the hose on the front of the valve and by sticking your finger in there and push on it. It should snap back to the wide open position.
The EGR valve could be gummed up or the EGR water intercooler that feeds the EGR is plugged up. That is much harder to fix as all the passage ways need to be cleaned out.
As near as I can tell, the ORM mod will preserve the EGR valve as it will not be operating so it cannot gum up. The AFC valve works only in park or neutral, so it gets exercised every time you shut down.
Note that the ORM circuit will keep the CPU very happy and you will not see those codes anymore. (Also note that others are about to prove this circuit. So far my vehicle is the only one with this so far).

As far as emissions goes in your state, you'll have to check. (Also note that the ORM circuit can be bypassed with a jumper plug to put all devices back in service, just like original)......

I suspect it's a stuck AFC/FCV. This is what happened the last time and the symptoms match. The most telling symptom is the run-on during shut down. The last time the FCV failed, the mechanic said he couldn't budge the valve. It was stuck pretty good.

The thought crossed my mind to try to unstick the valve and clean it. Once done - build and employee your circuit so that I won't have further trouble. However, I'm not sure the FCV would be salvageable.

Athough I haven't looked at your circuit, I'm a EE by trade. So skills and equipment to build the board are not a problem.

However, time is a problem... I just don't have a lot of spare time to mess around with it. That being the case, this is going to be a PIA. But it looks like it might be necessary.

If you want to give cleaning the FCV and EGR a try, the necessary gaskets, o-ring, and pipe clamps are only about $20 from someplace such as wholesalemopar.com . Actually being able to get to all that crap to get it off is another matter.

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Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

Hi! Been driving diesels since 1968. No diesel emission inspections yet in MD

LK, Glyndon MD

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2005 KJ Sport CRD Traded for VW, R32
Patriot Blue
245-70-16 Revos
Fumoto valve
Cat filter, on hold
ScanGage II
2 1/2" straight through chambered muffler(Summit Racing)
Shell Rotella T 5W-40
PML diffrential cover.
L.O.S.T. 075679

I drove for well over 2000 miles with the original ORM, Then I plugged MAF back to take my jeep in for a blower motor recall and everything worked fine, no cel's

_________________
Curtis
Lost # 3914
2006 CRD Limited
Sp Diesel Module
Samco Boost Hoses
K&N Performance Air Filter
Straight Pipe (No muffler)
SEGR
Mopar Skids
Cummins In Tank Lift Pump
245/70R 16 Wild Country AT's

That's good news....

I didn't think there were...

Thanks for the info...

Well, that certain is a positive...

However, I wouldn't say that 2000 miles is enough to tell you much...

Tim,

Is there a way/vendor that one can make a plug for your bypass instead of hardwiring directly into the wire bundle? I think it would be a lot slicker to make it where the MAF is unplugged and your psuedo MAF is plugged in the same set of wires that went to the MAF.

Any thoughts?

Boiler

I think the reason this did not work (it would be the best solution) is that the plugs were not available at a reasonable price.

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Dave

'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights

Would it be entirely impossible to make your own plug? spray the inside of the connector with some grease ,lube or similar, plug in some connectors that fit the pins and fill it up with some sort of silicone, rubber, rtv, something of that sort. Let it set up.... There has got to be a way! In tempted to get some similar plugs from something at the junkyard and give it a try.

_________________
It may be that your only purpose in life is to serve as a warning to others.

06 CRD Sport
Built 5/11/06
Jeep Green
Rocklizard diff cover
V6 Airbox

Speaking as someone who'd love to have a plug-in solution, the places you'd need to have a custom pass-through solution are either right on the ECM/TCM harnesses, or right at the MAF/FCV/ERG plugs. I tried to get something for a couple months for the MAF only getting an engineering sample of the male side and a spare MAF sensor that the guy at TYCO had laying around. Honestly, the lest-invative solution is to cleanly splice in a plug (if you want a plug). It can always be replaced later with a length of identical wire and wrapped back up in the loom. There are multiple plice points in the engine harness that are just that (from the factory).

The PITA factor makes it WAY more difficult than biting the bullet and using the soldering iron.

Dan

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2005 Silver CRD Limited
245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids

Ripping up Jeep CRD computers just to get the connectors was too pricy. Making your own using 5 minute epoxy is real dangerous as if it sticks to the connector pins, your toast. As far as having back-to-back connectors on the sensors, that really sticks out as "Look at me"!!

It took me all of about 1 1/2 hours to do the whole job of splicing in the wire harness. The cost was some solder and heat shrink, and my new connector. Done.

Now, as far as checking out the circuit, here is what I came up with. NOTE that I have added pin numbers on the schematic for clarity.

**********************************

ORM Circuit Checkout
* First disconnect the 10 Ohm resistor. All measurements are done with 12 Volts applied to circuit, Pin 3 = +12V, pin 6 = Ground.

* Test relay by using an Ohm meter between AFC Sensor (Pin 8) to CPU AFC (Pin 7). It should read open. Now ground TCM input (Pin 9) and Ohm Meter reading should read 0 Ohms.

* Apply 12V to CPU EGR (pin 4). Apply ground to CPU AFC (pin 7). With 4 Volts on “From MAF Sensor” Pin 1, you should see 4 Volts on “To CPU MAF Input” Pin 2.
(Optional Equip. Test). Using a signal generator on “From CPU EGR Output” Pin 4, set to a 8ms period, 12 Volt normally high PWM signal. As you increase the pulse width, about every 20% of duty-cycle increase, you should see the “To CPU MAF Input” Pin 2, voltage decrease. There should be 4 steps. (At 4 volts, then 3.45, 3.03, 2.71, 2.45). If this works, then on to the next step.
(Alt. Test, No signal gen.) With +12 Volts on “From CPU EGR” Pin 4, the “To CPU MAF” Pin 2, the voltage should be 4 volts. Now ground the “CPU EGR Output” Pin 4. The “To CPU MAF” Pin 2 voltage should go from 4 volts, to 2.45 volts.

* Place 12 volts on “From CPU EGR Output” pin 4.
(Optional Equip. Test). Using a signal generator on “From CPU AFC Output” Pin 7, set to a 4ms period, 12 Volts normally low PWM signal on “From CPU AFC Output, Pin 7. As you increase the PWM, you should see the “To CPU MAF Input” Pin 2, voltage decrease. There should be 4 steps (from 4 volts, then 3.68, 3.42, 3.20, and 3.0).
(Alt. Test, No signal gen). With ground on “From CPU AFC Output, Pin 7, now place +12 Volts on this pin. The Voltage on “To CPU MAF Input, Pin 2, should go from 4 volts, to 3 volts.

If it passes these tests, then your ready to install.

http://picasaweb.google.com/Turbo4tim/Ckt

Sorry to ask such a noob question here, but, doesn't the introduction of ULSD make this ORM mod unnecessary? Has anyone removed and inspected an EGR valve from a vehicle that has run ULSD exclusively?

Take Care,
Eric

That's not a noob question, it's a good one. There are a few benefits to the ORM that are very apparent. One is the soot content issue getting recirculated back into the intake. That's a concern long-term and can foul up sensors and what-not, but is not immediately noticeable driving-wise. The killer is injecting all that hot gas into the intake, functionally taking a step-down on the amount of combustible oxygen you get into your cylinder(s). Also of particular note is that the EGR operation tends to make the turbo spool-up a bit more slowly since it robs exhaust gasses. Those are the things you'll notice immediately with the ORM, more effective combustion (slightly higher MPG) and less lag spooling the turbo. The other benefits are only something you'll see when you service the engine.

So, long story short, ULSD does cut down on the amount of gunk in the block, but not as significantly as the ORM does

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2005 Silver CRD Limited
245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids

Ok, thanks for that.

I thought the the ORM mod was only being done to prevent sooting up a very expensive and unnecessary EGR valve. I didn't know there were other benefits.

In that case, carry on, boys, and get that that little device you're working on in kit form soon for all to buy.

Thanks,
Eric

One of the problems discussed earlier is the CEL coming on with the most simple ORM of disconnecting the MAF.

2 codes are thrown and the MAF comes on.

When the codes are cleared, does it clear out other things in the computer so that the computer has to relearn?

I ask this before I do Tim's mod because I can simply clear the codes when I am driving at night and turn off the CEL and it just cost me $60 and I didn't FUBAR anything. However, constantly relearning is probably a bad thing for our tender on-board computer and give me another reason to attempt Tim's surgery.

If clearing the codes does nothing more than clear the codes and turn off the CEL, I'll likely stick with the simple until possibly this winter. Then I will have more time and can do clandestine mod's under the cover of darkness.

For those that understand better what clearing the codes do than I, please comment.

Boiler