Hello. My name is JohnnyCash and I don't know anything about auto repair/maintenance/tools, etc, etc, etc............
Can anyone explain how to change oil specifically on a 2007.
Explain it like you are talking to an idiot.
I need to know what tools to buy to get the oil filter off (tried turning by hand, but I don't think it'll move),
what wrench to get the drain plug off, etc. I need sizes and specfics like what kind of handle on the wrench, how long, what size socket, etc.
I bought my very first hammer a few months ago. I won't tell you how old I am.

I have no way of lifting the Jeep, so I'll have to scoot under it. I hope it's possible to change the oil that way.
I can reach the filter from the top.
I was under it a few minutes ago and I don't even know where the drain plug is, or what it looks like, or nothing.
I saw a bolt I can reach thru a whole in my skid plate. It had a number on it......something like 48-7 and there was a rubber washer around it.
Is that my oil drain plug?
I think I saw my transmission pan, but again I'm not sure. It looked like a transmission pan. It was the very next thing going towards the rear of the Jeep after the thing that I think was my oil drain plug.
(I have all the general instructions on how to actually do an oil change, so I just need the specifics)
I am determined to learn this stuff.

_________________
2007 Jeep Liberty Sport
Not Just Red..............Inferno Red !
Automatic, 4WD
Mopar Skids, Tow Hooks

*EDIT* i just re-read your post, and I skipped a large chunk of it. I personally prefer to get to the filter while the jeep's in the air, but then again, a lot of us don't have the luxury of having a 10,000 lb lift at work to have your rig 6 feet in the air:) Yes, that bolt you referred to with the rubber gasket is the drain plug. Also, I wrote this just for the people that are completely inept, which it appears you are NOT since you knwo what an oil filter looks like:P

you need an oil drain pan, 5 quarts of 5w20 oil, an oil filter compatible with the pennzoil PZ 19, and a filter strap suitable for that size filter, and a 13mm wrench.

there is a bolt at the back of the engine oil pan. remove that bolt with your 13mm wrench, and oil will come out. you'll want your drain pan underneath the stream, obviously.

After letting all the oil drain out, you can replace said bolt (aka the drain plug) and just snug it...DO NOT tighten it like you're tightening a lug nut.

Then you go to the front of your engine. there's an oil filter hanging off it. it's an oblong cylinder-shaped device that's black and emblazoned with the Mopar logo. you grab it, and either by hand or by the oil filter strap, loosen it while underneath your Liberty. There's also a little trough for the oil to flow. you loosen (but don't remove) the oil filter, let it drain with the oil drain underneath this trough. After that's slowed to a slow trickle, completely remove the oil filter, careful to hold the end that was screwed to the engine upright so oil doesn't drip out, then place it open-end down in the drain pan. Wipe up the excess oil from the trough, dip your finger in one of the fresh bottles of oil, and run a thin bead of oil around the black seal on your new filter. Double check that the mating surface with the filter on your engine does NOT have the old seal of the oil filter stuck to it. Now, screw on your new oil filter and only tighten it until you feel resistance, then a half a turn or so. any more can cause your seal to warp and leak.

on the front passenger side of the engine will be a large oil cap. Remove it and the little plastic doohickey inside there, and dump 5 quarts of oil in it. replace said doohickey and cap, start your engine and let it run for a few seconds and make sure the oil pressure light turns off. shut your engine off, and check your oil

badda boom, badda bing, you're done!


or you can just drop $30 and have someone else do it in 15 minutes or so.

You will make life easier if you run out and pick up 2 jack stands and a small jack to do this... NEVER EVER crawl under any vehicle that is only supported by a jack. If the pump fails on the or it gets knocked loose, you can be seriously injured.


Tips:

1) To find the oil drain plug: Find the transmission pan by laying down on the ground behind the front tire. You'll see an aluminum rectangular "pan" hanging. Follow that forward a few inches and you'll see the "bolt" afixed to the engine oil pan.

2) This is the bolt that you will remove to drain the oil. If it's a factory fill (Oil) than the plug will be stubborn so use a rag wrapped around the 13mm box wrench (the circular end) and then smack the wrench with your free palm. [Righty tighty / Lefty Loosey] The rag will abosorb some of the impact and still get the bolt loose.

3) You can then unthread the plug with your fingers... Use a little forward pressure on the bolt as you unthread so as not to drop it in the oil drain pan once it is 100% unthreaded. Then remove as quickly as you can without banging your hand on the undercarriage and have some paper towel ready to wipe up your spills and oily hand.

4) When you crack the oil filter, some oil can seep out from the seal so have something to absorb the oil. I really like using a strap wrench for the filter. They are cheap and can be purchased at any autoparts store.

5) When you remove the oil filter (just unscrew it like a bolt) you need to make sure the gasket from the oil filter is still intact. Sometimes it can stick to the engine and cause a big mess if you don't notice it.

6) Use a dab of fresh oil on the new oil filter gasket to lube it up. (Dry gasket = nearly impossilbe to remove next time)

7) Verify your drain plug is reinstalled and snug again... Then move up top and fill with 5 quarts of your favorite brand of oil.





Sidebar: I like to use the highly contested mobil1 oil and filter but what ever you do, please do not buy a fram oil filter.


Good luck - let me know if you need any help with pictures and such

_________________
02 Liberty Limited
Silver Outside & Taupe Inside
Heated Seats, Sunroof & Infinity speakers
USA Spec I-Pod adaptor, Mopar Sub, Garmin GPS
Tow Package, Select-Trac
Rock Rails, Tow Hooks

All of this info is great. You should have no trouble with this.

I remeber that u have skid plates. This can be a bit of a mess when the oil drains out of the pan. be prepared for any spills with rags and PLEASE wear safety goggles while under there. Oil is a witch in your eyes!

One other tip, run the engine for a few minutes BEFORE starting these procedures. As the engine warms its metal parts will expand making it a little easier to loosen the drain pan plug and the oil filter. Cold metal shrinks and tightens up. BUT keep in mind that the oil will be hot. Best tip is to drive around for 5 or 10 minutes. come home put it on jack stands, if you have them, open the hood, let it sit a short time till you can touch the engine without burning yourself but it is still warm, then go at it.

Also please read the owners manual or find out on here where the jack stands go under your car for the safest hold. stands are great IF they are placed in the correct spot.

Also be advised that you will still need at least two (2) one gallon jugs (5 Quarts) to pour the waste oil in to take it to some place like a valvoline instan oild change so they can dump it for you for recycling. First time is always messy. just be careful!!!

Good luck

P.S. DON'T FORGET TO LUBE THE BALLJOINTS (if you have fittings) AND ALL THOTHER SPOTS ON THE FRONT SUSPENSION!

How many miles on it? is this the first EVER oil change?

_________________
'07 Ltd 3.7L, Black, OME HD's, OME shocks, Mopar Skids, AEV Bridgers w/ TPMS, Kumho KL78's, ARB Bumper, KC 130 Watters, Warn M8000 Winch, Rock Lizard Gecko Roof Basket KC 150 watters, Cobra 75WSX, 3 ft FireFly, RL Super Step Skinks

There are zero grease zerks on a stock KJ,only if you replaced the rear u-joints,LBJ's(with MOOG ones),and installed Al's UCA then you will have grease zerks.

07 limited here, only 2300+ miles on it so I have not had the chance to crawl under YET. I thought there were no zerks there but...


good luck

_________________
'07 Ltd 3.7L, Black, OME HD's, OME shocks, Mopar Skids, AEV Bridgers w/ TPMS, Kumho KL78's, ARB Bumper, KC 130 Watters, Warn M8000 Winch, Rock Lizard Gecko Roof Basket KC 150 watters, Cobra 75WSX, 3 ft FireFly, RL Super Step Skinks

It's all good... The best part about crawling under the KJ for the first time is noticing all the bits and pieces that make it go together!

_________________
02 Liberty Limited
Silver Outside & Taupe Inside
Heated Seats, Sunroof & Infinity speakers
USA Spec I-Pod adaptor, Mopar Sub, Garmin GPS
Tow Package, Select-Trac
Rock Rails, Tow Hooks

Thanks 4 the answers. But why not use fram oil filter??

_________________
99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

You can just get a much better piece by using a WIX (or NAPA GOLD) brand filter for a little more money... There are internet rumors of failed Fram filters but all you have to do is cut one open to see how cheaply they are assembled.

Amsoil is a great way to go as well...

_________________
02 Liberty Limited
Silver Outside & Taupe Inside
Heated Seats, Sunroof & Infinity speakers
USA Spec I-Pod adaptor, Mopar Sub, Garmin GPS
Tow Package, Select-Trac
Rock Rails, Tow Hooks

You can get Wix at Carquest, Napa, From ME, and many smaller auto parts stores. Ask around the independant stores as they usually buy from the same warehouses as the larger chain stores and can get Wix.

The Amsoil Ea series filters, both oil and air, are very good. They cost more but are worth it if you are persuing extended service intervals or just want the best filtration.

_________________
99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

One thing I really had trouble with on the first oil change was getting the oil filter off.. I didnt think I was going to get it off since it was over tightened from the factory..

If its the first time its ever been changed, then you may be better off taking it to a dealership and letting them change it the first time. Then you can take over the next time by and the filter SHOULDNT be a problem to get off.

A good cup wrench is a great tool to get the filter off with..

I think everyone has covered it really good.. Nice pics JJ..

_________________
LOST KJ'S
Where are you going???
Current Jeep: 2004 Jeep Liberty
-Atlantic Blue
-Air Ride Rear Suspension ; OME/Rustys Lift ; Powertrax Locker ; Moog Lower Ball-Joints ; 245/70/16 Yokohama Geolander A/T-S's on MOABS ; Flowmaster 50 SUV
Lost #007082
http://www.cardomain.com/id/jeepjeepster

Johnny Cash,

Now that you have instructions: Listen to JEEPSTER

Take it to the Quick lube or dealer and watch them the first time.

It ain't that cost effective to do it yourself...$24 for 5 qts of syn and $10 for a good oil filter will last you 8K miles if you do it yourself.

You dont need to jack it up to change the oil, it just adds extra wasted time.

A plastic filter socket can help, otherwise remove the filter by hand.

JJ, That post took a lot of love man.

Johnny Cash, I noticed the aka Debbie.

At the risk of sounding sexist, if you are concerned about the dealership or the quick lube places trying to take advantage of you for being female, you have good reason to be concerned. The local quick lube tried to do that to my wife but she had some basic knowlage (like that you have just received), and they weren't able to.

I agree with the1jferg and let the dealership or a quick lube do the first one. Besides, my dealersip gives me oil changes free for the first year (or 12,000 miles). Even though a quick lube might try to hit you up for more money cuz of the skid plates, it will be worth it cuz the filter and drain plug MIGHT be VERY tight. A quick lube in the hood can start to build a returning client out of you and suprise you by not trying to take you to the cleaners.

I also agree about the jack stands. you should not need them. just be careful when that plug does come out and the oil starts flowing. Stands give you more room to maneuver under there and slide the pan around quicker. But a good set of rags can fix that.

DON'T FORGET THE SAFETY GOGGLES, if and when you do it yourself. Driving is a pain in the butt with one or no eyes.

Also if you are going to learn how to do this, ask later on about checking/changing your transfer case front and rear diff. fluids as well as having your glove box ballanced (Just kidding about the glove box)

_________________
'07 Ltd 3.7L, Black, OME HD's, OME shocks, Mopar Skids, AEV Bridgers w/ TPMS, Kumho KL78's, ARB Bumper, KC 130 Watters, Warn M8000 Winch, Rock Lizard Gecko Roof Basket KC 150 watters, Cobra 75WSX, 3 ft FireFly, RL Super Step Skinks

I just love trying to help out a fellow KJ owner!
(Luckily I had the skids off for a little project)

_________________
99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

hi i recoment do not chance your oils by your self taket to mechanic

_________________
liberty 3.7 extreme sport cherokee black

No one has mentioned the need for maintaining a service record. Another post is discussing problems with extended warrantee without adequate service history. If you do service yourself, keep receipts for what you bought and a record of the date and mileage when you performed the service.


When you have it done you get a printout that you must save or if you have your dealer service done they also keep a record in the system.

_________________
Ed

2006 4X4
Full Jeep skids
Rock Lizard Super Sliders
OME Spring Lift
Al's A-Arms and Quick Disconnects
Cobra 75 WXST and Fire Stick
Garmin 580 GPS

LOST #EH075243
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2934108

Personally, nothing gives me more personal satisfaction than changing my own oil. It gives me a great deal of ownership pride. I know exactly what went in, and I know the drain plug will not fall out (documented grease monkey horror stories), and I know I am using a top notch filter (I like wix/napa gold). Plus, I get mobile1 suv for $23 at walmart. The whole enchilada is about $30....probably what you pay for standard oil at a quick lube....
It is true though, my first try I COULD NOT get off the filter. In fact it was getting deformed and crushed. I had to go to the dealer and had to have them loosen it (no charge).
Good luck...go for it...

_________________
'06 3.7 sport 6 speed (long live manual tranny's)
tinted windows, cruise, midnight blue
Mopar roof rack
Royal Purple Synchromax in tranny
Royal Purple Maxgear in pumpkins
Full mopar skids, front diff collar
Future mods: Rock rails, B.F. Goodrich all terains. (In my dreams: Frankenlift)

I changed ours for the first time this morning, it was really easy.

- No jacking is necessary IMHO. I fit under just fine, especially since I only had to get about shoulder deep.

- My OEM filter came off with some difficulty. Luckily I had a good oil-filter wrench already. It's pretty easy to get at from above, but there's not much room to move the handle of the wrench.

- have a very large oil pan handy, or a piece of cardboard, and some oil-absorber. Even though I didn't spill out of the filter itself, the oil from the filter hole dripped all over the crossmember and front axle tube and went everywhere. And I don't even have the disadvantage of the skidplates.

- the uniframe is a lot beefier than I expected. That's some thick steel!

_________________
2007 KJ Sport