Rear wheel arch trimming or not (that's the question)

CD · **Posted:** Mon Jul 02, 2007 8:27 am

Im running 265/70/16 Cooper STT's and now have on order a set of Cragar Soft 8's from the US

. I had planned to get some from a local guy & have them fitted next month but was told today that they can't get them (funny as they told me 2 weeks earlier that they could :evil:

). Anyway the Cragars should be cool, I'm going the Chrome rims 16x8 with 5" back space.

The rear wheel arch has a bit of rubbing as is, when the new rims arrive 5 to 6weeks it's going to push the rim out by 12mm causing more rub on the rear (not to fussed atm on the front, should be fine). I've folded/bent in part of the metal under the plastic at the top of the rear wheel arch as it sticks out (or into the wheel well) further than the plastic wheel arch cover.

So the questions is, is it better to do more work here or get bump stops for the bottom spring plate. I'm thinking that the tyre will just slot into the flare but will continue to rub like hell on the side of the plastic wheel arch.

Anyone running the exact size tyre that can offer advice or post a pic of what you've done.

CD

dirtykj · **Posted:** Mon Jul 02, 2007 11:53 am

I don't think you can trim the wheel arch --- the flares are pretty much right up against the metal already. If you get significant rubbing you might have to add more spacer and deal with custom drive shaft and pushing the rear axle back some more. Jeeping Al should have some advice for you since he did his monster 5" lift

spencevans · **Posted:** Mon Jul 02, 2007 12:35 pm

What you need are some larger bumpstops. That should stop the rubbing issues. It's never good to use you tire as a bumpstop.

CD · **Posted:** Mon Jul 02, 2007 4:57 pm

Yeh I was thinking bumpstop is the way to go but worth the question

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Mon Jul 02, 2007 6:13 pm

You can take a dremmel (the hard way) or a cutting wheel and remove about 9/16" all the way around the wheel arch. You will have to remove the stock weather stripping and go to a Pep Boys and find some weather stripping that will fit on the bottom edge of the door (since you cut away the metal the OEM was mounted). You should only have to cut out the front half of the wheelwell to stop the rubbing. I had 265/75/16 MTs on steel 16x7 with 4.75" BS for a reference.

CD · **Posted:** Mon Jul 02, 2007 11:43 pm

DarbyWalters wrote:

You can take a dremmel (the hard way) or a cutting wheel and remove about 9/16" all the way around the wheel arch. You will have to remove the stock weather stripping and go to a Pep Boys and find some weather stripping that will fit on the bottom edge of the door (since you cut away the metal the OEM was mounted). You should only have to cut out the front half of the wheelwell to stop the rubbing. I had 265/75/16 MTs on steel 16x7 with 4.75" BS for a reference.

Thanks Darby,
Any picks with an open door, and yes I've realised it's mainly the front that gets the rub(aside from the lower part of each sede of the flare).

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Tue Jul 03, 2007 7:27 am

I had pics somewhere a LONG time ago but can't find them now...at the old forum on the EZBoard. The only other thing was that the fender flairs (front half) becamse a bit loose with the cut.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Jul 03, 2007 10:48 am

Anyone ever tried rolling the fender? - the old time hot rod way was to wedge a baseball bat between the tire and fender, and physically roll it back and forth - made the fender curl under - the new hi-tech way is something like this.
http://www.tirerack.com/accessories-tools-fenderlip.shtml

CD · **Posted:** Tue Jul 03, 2007 11:43 pm

DarbyWalters wrote:

I had pics somewhere a LONG time ago but can't find them now...at the old forum on the EZBoard. The only other thing was that the fender flairs (front half) becamse a bit loose with the cut.

Thanks anyway Darby.

Can't see myself doing that ATXKJ, but not a bad idea. I will give it more thought.

Rear wheel arch trimming or not (that's the question)

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