Stripped Oil Drain Plug

finsdown · **Joined:** Fri Jul 06, 2007 2:50 pm **Posts:** 4

This is my first post on this forum, I've been reading posts for awhile and have gained alot of very useful info from all of you.
I haven't seen this question posted before so I figured I'd ask the experts. I have somehow stripped the oil drain plug on my CRD KJ and wondering what I can do about it. I'm using a temporary (but works well) solution of using a rubber plug which expands via a butterfly nut inside the hole. I've tried buying replacement (metal) plugs but they won't stay in. I was wondering if the fumoto valve would work or if I would have the same problem. I guess one solution would be to replace the whole oil pan but I didn't want to go that route unless absolutely necessary. Possibly having someone retap it might work? I asked my stealership rep when I was there last (for the F37 mod) but his eyes just glazed over and mumbled something I didn't understand.

FinsDown
2005 Jeep Liberty 4x4 CRD Limited, ORM mod, new alternator, new Diehard Platinum battery

Jeger · **Posted:** Tue Jul 10, 2007 1:43 pm

This has been reported before...so you are not the first LOL

I think someone has successfully drilled and tapped for the next size up, I dont know if they took the pan off for this or not, but the thought of metal shavings in the oil pan makes me ill :shock:

Jeger · **Posted:** Tue Jul 10, 2007 1:45 pm

Heres a good discussion on the matter

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... drain+plug

And welcome, you have come to the right place

finsdown · **Joined:** Fri Jul 06, 2007 2:50 pm **Posts:** 4

Thanks for the welcome. I'll check the link out.

LanduytG · **Joined:** Sun Dec 11, 2005 6:59 am **Posts:** 188

Go to a 20mm-1.5 and then you can use the F105 or if you use and 18mm-1.5 you can use the F104.

Greg

finsdown · **Joined:** Fri Jul 06, 2007 2:50 pm **Posts:** 4

Ok, are you saying I would need to tap it out to a size of 20mm-1.5 first? Or will a drain plug of this spec self-tap the opening? Thanks for replying.

Jeger · **Posted:** Thu Jul 12, 2007 3:03 pm

You should drill it first with the appropriate size drill

http://www.newmantools.com/tapdrill.htm

And THEN tap it.

I would not recommend just running in a screw. Even if you found some sort of self tapping screw.

hatchetman · **Posted:** Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:59 pm

Have you thought about using a boat drain plug? They expand when you tighten them down. Don't know if they stand up to the heat and oil though. :evil:

finsdown · **Joined:** Fri Jul 06, 2007 2:50 pm **Posts:** 4

No I haven't. I have an extra one though so next time I change the oil I'll try that first. It is made of brass I believe, no reason why it wouldn't stand up to the job. Otherwise, I'll try to tap it out. Thanks.

skywarn · **Posted:** Wed Jul 18, 2007 5:27 pm

Finsdown -

LanduytG wrote:

Go to a 20mm-1.5 and then you can use the F105 or if you use and 18mm-1.5 you can use the F104.

Greg

Go here and order a new plug...

http://lubricationspecialist.com/front/shop.aspx?catid=16&parentid=0

Tom_with_a_Dream · **Posted:** Tue Jul 24, 2007 3:43 pm

If all the drill and tap activity falls through let me know and I can put a 2005 oil pan in you hands. It has 70k miles on it and is equipped with a Fumoto, though not with an adapter. You can use it to drill and tap while you are still nursing your rig along with a boat drain or whatnot.

The pan will be available tomorrow when I pick up my CRD after having a new one installed. I wanted a temp sender installed in the sump and didn't want to do it while installed, so I purchased a spare and had a bung welded on.

Also, I have had an incorrect Fumoto install nagging at me for the last 50k miles. Turns out a "hammer mechanic" felt the adapter was the wrong thread pitch and felt the valve fit correctly by itself (OldNavy, that well-placed comment still stings a bit, even after a year or so

). I've checked the valve regularly and there has been no leakage but you never know when the luck will fail. Cursory inspections of the valve do not reveal any sealant or such so it may be that the valve was snugged tight to the pan and the threads (slightly different pitch) have simply deformed enough to hold it tight all these miles.

I'll be glad to get my oil temp gauge working and be rid of that nagging concern on the oil pan.

Stripped Oil Drain Plug

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