Over Heating CRD?!

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Thu Jul 12, 2007 2:32 pm

last year mine had the transmission temp light come on when driving hard in the dunes down in FL. but the engine temp barely budged past normal. since I had the f37 and reflash I've not had any temp problems at all, even in thick mud.

spencevans · **Posted:** Thu Jul 12, 2007 5:09 pm

I had this problem for over two years. The symptoms were A/c was ussually on, alway going up hill or under heavy load. After seeing the needle go to redline it then mysteriously returns to normal opperating temps within just a few seconds.

The fix was the gauge flash listed previously by oldnavy. It, cost me $16.43. It has been over 3 months and I have not had this overheating issue return. This used to happen on a weekly basis. Now if the engine heats up the electric fan kicks in and cools it right back down.

Ways to tell if you are really over heating.

The A/C will automaticcally shut off if the engine starts to overheat. My A/C never shut off.

If you pop the hood it will be so hot you won't be able to head under the hood.

Hope this helps.

clday25 · **Posted:** Thu Jul 12, 2007 8:13 pm

A little update:

My jeep sat at the dealership for 10 hours Tuesday and never got looked at..... needless to say i got it back and was a little ticked

I was at 35,854 miles before the apt., but its documented and will be covered the next time i take it in. Also, he gave me the option of
having F37 done or not.... ya, i passed on it

I guess i'll just live with it until its covenant to take it back in.....

Cowcatcher · **Posted:** Thu Jul 12, 2007 8:54 pm

clday25 wrote:

A little update:

Also, he gave me the option of
having F37 done or not.... ya, i passed on it

My dealer gave me the option of the F37 months ago...actually they discouraged it....and I passed. Yesterday I got another notice from DC telling me I should have it done. It also says that if I paid to have it fixed independently to send them a copy of the bill for reimbursement. So, I know folks got third party ball joints covered, I wonder if they would reimburse a Suncoast?

Wally3430 · **Posted:** Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:00 pm

First of all, thanks for having me. Just bought a CRD and spent the money for most of the goodies. Got ARB with Hella lights, OME 2.5" lift, 265/75 Kelly MSR's, and a surco rack. Anyways, just took a drive up the rockies--it was about 55 degrees when I got to the top---no problems. Later that day when the outside temp got to about 95, I came back up the mountain pass. The temp gauge was sitting at between 3/4 and redline. It cooled rapidly when I started going down hill. I did have the AC on all the way up. Also had the cruise set at about 75mph. Wasn't pulling anything and didn't have too much weight at all in it. Temp gauge never goes about 1/2 any other time. So, that's the problem. I've read that it may be the fan clutch or the gauge. The fan comes on as it should when the AC is on. As for the gauge, I'll take it to the dealer for that. Could it be the air flow is restricted by the ARB and lights up front? How bout the bigger tires? Haven't changed gears yet and not sure if I'm going to. Also, anyone have a scraping/screach coming from the engine bay at certain RPM's? I'm thinking turbo maybe, but then again this is my first diesel. Thanks for having me all---look me up if anyone is up the Montana way.

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Fri Jul 13, 2007 12:24 am

Wally3430 wrote:

First of all, thanks for having me. Just bought a CRD and spent the money for most of the goodies. Got ARB with Hella lights, OME 2.5" lift, 265/75 Kelly MSR's, and a surco rack. Anyways, just took a drive up the rockies--it was about 55 degrees when I got to the top---no problems. Later that day when the outside temp got to about 95, I came back up the mountain pass. The temp gauge was sitting at between 3/4 and redline. It cooled rapidly when I started going down hill. I did have the AC on all the way up. Also had the cruise set at about 75mph. Wasn't pulling anything and didn't have too much weight at all in it. Temp gauge never goes about 1/2 any other time. So, that's the problem. I've read that it may be the fan clutch or the gauge. The fan comes on as it should when the AC is on. As for the gauge, I'll take it to the dealer for that. Could it be the air flow is restricted by the ARB and lights up front? How bout the bigger tires? Haven't changed gears yet and not sure if I'm going to. Also, anyone have a scraping/screach coming from the engine bay at certain RPM's? I'm thinking turbo maybe, but then again this is my first diesel. Thanks for having me all---look me up if anyone is up the Montana way.

Wally there is no fan clutch on the CRD both fans are electric. as to the odd sound check out this thread...
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=17515

Metal Man · **Posted:** Fri Jul 13, 2007 4:16 am

Quote:

both fans are electric.

I don't think this is correct.

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Fri Jul 13, 2007 10:30 am

Metal Man wrote:

Quote:

both fans are electric.

I don't think this is correct.

I', sorry there are not two cooling fans, the one big fan is two speeds. I don't know why I wrote that without rereading before I posted. Good catch Metal Man :oops:

HIKJ · **Posted:** Fri Jul 13, 2007 1:26 pm

I believe one of the fans (the one behind the radiator) has a viscous clutch. How can you verify that it works correctly?

retmil46 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 13, 2007 2:59 pm

Fro the people that are actually having overheating problems, it might be you need a good old-fashioned cooling system flush. The big rigs run cooling system filters to catch all the scale and corrosion products that form over time.

And it's not unknown for the factory to have left a good amount of casting sand and slag in the cooling system. I've still got a mason jar with a good 2" of casting sand in the bottom that I drained out of my radiator, and another with a good double handful that came out of the surge tank.

Also, check the vent lines that run from the radiator and the engine block to the surge tank. Make sure they're not kinked off, where you could be forming an air pocket in the engine or radiator.

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Sat Jul 14, 2007 4:49 pm

HIKJ wrote:

I believe one of the fans (the one behind the radiator) has a viscous clutch. How can you verify that it works correctly?

Huh! it sure is. That will teach me to think I know about my tractor without checking first.

Wally3430 · **Posted:** Sat Jul 14, 2007 5:09 pm

I believe you check the viscous fan by attaching a small piece of kite string to one fan blade and attach the other end to a stationary object. Turn the motor on and the string will keep the fan from turning. Once the engine heats up the fan clutch will engage and break the string---this is how you know the clutch is good. Tried it once on a Dakota--worked as advertised. Only problem I see is that you have to get that shroud out of the way first. Haven't tried it on my KJ yet.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sat Jul 14, 2007 7:39 pm

Wally3430 wrote:

I believe you check the viscous fan by attaching a small piece of kite string to one fan blade and attach the other end to a stationary object. Turn the motor on and the string will keep the fan from turning. Once the engine heats up the fan clutch will engage and break the string---this is how you know the clutch is good. Tried it once on a Dakota--worked as advertised. Only problem I see is that you have to get that shroud out of the way first. Haven't tried it on my KJ yet.

Here is a simpler method...
With the engine NOT running, grap one of the fan blades and try to spin
the fan as hard a you can. If the fan clutch is good it will only move
about half a revolution. If it spins freely with little resistance its bad.
Easy!

Wally3430 · **Posted:** Tue Nov 13, 2007 6:15 pm

Ok, a little update on the overheating situation. I've had it into the dealer 4 times since my last post. They first did the F whatever upgrade, second time they put new software in for the instrument cluster and checked the temp. sender. Third time they replaced the instrument cluster, and the forth time they didn't do anything because they don't know what to do. I doubt they believe me--I told them I would film the whole event next time I'm going up a long hill. Don't have any ideas...... It still hasn't actually overheated--just comes to about 1 tick south of the last red line. I'll tell you what though--I'm getting really sick and tired of messing with the idiots at the dealer.

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Tue Nov 13, 2007 6:27 pm

Have you flushed the system yet? Replaced the Thermostat?

Wally3430 · **Posted:** Tue Nov 13, 2007 6:59 pm

Nah, haven't messed with that yet. Really don't want to since it's under warranty. I will if I have to though. It's getting cold up here now and the overheating thing is not an issue so I may just wait until spring to figure it out. (I don't like laying on my back in snow under my vehicle.) I am hoping that someone that had the same problem will see these postings and chime in.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Tue Nov 13, 2007 7:51 pm

My recollection is that the thermostat on the VM diesel is a unit inseparable from it's housing, so you replace the whole thing at considerably more expense than we're used to with the 180F sub-$5 units from Bi-Mart that fit most cars. Seems like a different thread had a picture of it - sometime in the past week or so.

Anyhow, might be a bit spendy to replace on spec?

Mark
--

DarbyWalters wrote:

Have you flushed the system yet? Replaced the Thermostat?

Wally3430 · **Posted:** Sun Jun 29, 2008 8:29 pm

So, it's summer in Montana now. Haven't had the overheating issue since last summer. Of course, now that the temps are above 80 F, the overheating is becoming an issue on long, steep grades. I have one day left on warranty!! If I can't get this stupid problem fixed, I'll be getting rid of this piece soon.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sun Jun 29, 2008 9:32 pm

I can't remember what Mopar calls it, but there is a coupling or clutch that engages the fan and makes it pull a lot more air through the radiator when it gets hot. If it does not do this, it is a warranty item.
Another thing to check is the air bleed plug on the top right side of the radiator above the inlet hose. There should be a small return hose like VW uses to return the bubbles to the reservoir instead of a just a manual vent. If the top 25% of the radiator has air instead of coolant, it will not cool properly. When I retro fitted the VW Turbo Diesel engine into my '71 bus, I stuck the radiator out front like a spare tire and it has a manual bleeder valve on the top of the tank to let me bleed out the air. I would crack the valve open after running the engine for a few min and let out the air, I have driven the old brick 75mph at 115f and did not have any over heating problem.
Why does our CRDs have the manual bleeder instead of a hose like VW :?:

Blanking BEAN COUNTERS :!:

Some photos at my picasa link: http://picasaweb.google.com/warp2diesel ... 8518039746

onthehunt · **Posted:** Mon Jun 30, 2008 3:29 am

Quote:

Why does our CRDs have the manual bleeder instead of a hose like VW

Like most industrial/heavy duty engines it has a coolant bleeder so you can bleed the system when filling it up. Therefore you have no need to run it to temp to bleed and risk an air pocket, possibly doing damage to a very expensive piece of equipment.

Over Heating CRD?!

Who is online