The New Fuel Filter, Filter Head, Lift Pump Thread

Jeger · **Posted:** Fri Jul 06, 2007 3:08 pm

dgeist wrote:

Jeger wrote:

Once upon a time someone forgot, and left both the heater and temp sensor unplugged for about a week :oops:

. This person also reported during this same time that they got 27 MPG running 75-80 MPH.....

What was that person getting before ?

about 24-25 MPG at around 80,

27-28 at 65-70. It would do better with fewer WOT passes :twisted:

I would be interested to see the effects of cooler fuel in our setup. Maybe someone could ice their filter assembly to find out? Just a little, dont want to gel it up you know.

Cowcatcher · **Posted:** Fri Jul 06, 2007 3:33 pm

Does it throw codes?

I couldn't figure out how to release the temp sensor on my filter head. It looked like it was two piece with releases on the sides on the part next to the head and a second release on the bottom side for another release where it separates further back. What's the secret?

Jeger · **Posted:** Sat Jul 07, 2007 6:50 am

I dont know if it threw a code or not...my check engine light is always on for some reason..... I dont remember exactly how the latch worked, but only the end plug came off, I think you just squeeze in the sides and wiggle it out?

retmil46 · **Posted:** Sat Jul 07, 2007 8:25 am

Just the rear plug comes off, just squeeze on the latch you felt on the bottom of it.

The part with the two latches on the side, that's where it's glued/heat welded into the plastic housing and won't come off. :evil:

Jeger · **Posted:** Sat Jul 07, 2007 8:33 am

rear, as in furthest away from the filter housing? Or in my case front as in closest to the front of the vehicle :lol:

.

Should it have thrown a code? I have an 06 so the key trick doesnt work..Can autozone tell me what codes are stored?

tigafila · **Posted:** Sat Jul 07, 2007 8:56 pm

Does anyone know if the Davco 245 will fit? I need to do something, I did the CAT and it's been better but my wife called me with a no-start today after she got to her first stop. Tons of air, bled it out and it fired right up. TIA, Tigafila

Cowcatcher · **Posted:** Sun Jul 08, 2007 12:40 am

tigafila wrote:

Does anyone know if the Davco 245 will fit? I need to do something, I did the CAT and it's been better but my wife called me with a no-start today after she got to her first stop. Tons of air, bled it out and it fired right up. TIA, Tigafila

I think I would put it back to OEM and make the dealer fix it.

Don't know about the Davco but we think the RACOR would but you might might have trouble down the road over the heater and temp sensor.

tigafila · **Posted:** Sun Jul 08, 2007 12:52 am

Sorry about the mistype. I actually meant Racor 245. The dealer couldn't fix it before the CAT, it was in there twice for P0093 and its related symptoms. I really don't want to start over with the same leak prone head, does anyone else? Tigafila

bbertram · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2005 4:17 pm **Posts:** 144

My heater plug has been leaking for a while now, after the cat filter change it started stalling daily. So I went and tried to get the part under warranty. I took my jeep in today to get the part swapped out. The part that came in was a filter head, the puck in between that holds the plugs and the filter, all attached together. So then I showed them the mods to the filter head, the bleeder valve and the cat filter with adapter. They told me they were only allowed .3 hours of time to change the part out so moving my mods over would cost me money. I feel if I didn't show them what I have done and just let them do their job I would be saying good bye to my mods, lol. So I convinced them to give me the new parts and I will do all the swapping myself. I really don't think this will stop my stalling but I will be getting some grease for the o-rings between the head and puck. I think the air is getting in there.

Just thought I would give a heads up. I wish the puck came seperate. I do have the option of using the stock unit again I guess with the stock filter though. I don't want to do that but it will for sure stop the air leaks.

Jeger · **Posted:** Wed Jul 11, 2007 3:54 pm

So you have a defective filter head in hand?

I think the NHTSA is looking for one :shock:

bbertram · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2005 4:17 pm **Posts:** 144

Jeger wrote:

So you have a defective filter head in hand?

I think the NHTSA is looking for one :shock:

Yes, but my dealer wants it back.

chrispitude · **Posted:** Wed Jul 11, 2007 4:55 pm

Give the number of your local dealer to NHTSA. I'm sure they'll work out an agreement.

- Chris

tigafila · **Posted:** Wed Jul 11, 2007 8:35 pm

I ordered a Racor 245 with 2 micron element today $165 with heater option & 2 elements. I hope to put it on Sunday & report back, hopefully no more wife stranded with a no-start! Tigafila

MACKJ · **Posted:** Wed Jul 11, 2007 11:14 pm

bbertram wrote:

...but I will be getting some grease for the o-rings between the head and puck. I think the air is getting in there.

I agree. I am going to do just that when I install my Cat.
I have noticed that during the bleed exercise I always get weeping around those O rings when you get some pressure build up toward the end of the process.
I have spoken to a couple of retailers and they recommended either Loctite Hi-Tack gasket sealant (P/N's 37553 or 37554) or Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No3 (P/N's 80018 or 80019).
Spoke directly with Loctite in Australia and they recommended their Aviation Sealant No3 (P/N 3J) which looks to have the same application and tech specs as the Permatex stuff. I couldn't find this one available in the US so maybe try the Permatex Aviation No3. They both remain tacky/flexible and are resistant to fuels/oils.

bbertram · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2005 4:17 pm **Posts:** 144

MACKJ wrote:

bbertram wrote:

...but I will be getting some grease for the o-rings between the head and puck. I think the air is getting in there.

I agree. I am going to do just that when I install my Cat.
I have noticed that during the bleed exercise I always get weeping around those O rings when you get some pressure build up toward the end of the process.
I have spoken to a couple of retailers and they recommended either Loctite Hi-Tack gasket sealant (P/N's 37553 or 37554) or Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No3 (P/N's 80018 or 80019).
Spoke directly with Loctite in Australia and they recommended their Aviation Sealant No3 (P/N 3J) which looks to have the same application and tech specs as the Permatex stuff. I couldn't find this one available in the US so maybe try the Permatex Aviation No3. They both remain tacky/flexible and are resistant to fuels/oils.

Thanks, I will look for this stuff.

bbertram · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2005 4:17 pm **Posts:** 144

Well, last night I removed my old filter head and puck, disassembled everything and put on the new unit*. This time I did things differently though.

* The new filter head comes pre-assembled, suck a pain in the butt. The stock filter was so tight I could not get it off. So I stabbed it with a screwdriver and twisted it off.

1) I applied Loctite Gasket sealant around where the puck and filter head meet.

2) I used Loctite thread sealant on the after market bleeder valve

Using these two products will ensure that there is no air coming it from those locations.

The real treat is what happened after. I primed the filter with fresh fuel and pumped out the air. Before I would always get air no matter what I did or how I did it. This time I got air too but then it went away and soon I had just straight fuel coming out, no bubbles at all!! Then I ran it for a bit and it stumbled at 2000 rpm a bit, it went away, then she blew a nice cloud of white smoke and no problems since. Time will tell if the stalling problem will go away or not. I have noticed before with the old filter head that it will kick out of cruise sometimes while driving down the highway, why? I think because a pocket of air was digested and interrupted the power delivery and threw the cruise off. I have also had the motor rev higher like it down shifted and knock the cruise out, again, I believe a big dump of air went through and temporarily stalled the motor but since it was in gear and going a good speed it started right back up.

I still have the faulty puck in my possession. I am willing to send it off to to be researched if need but I would need them to explain that to the dealer. I will keep the old unit for awhile, an email address of who to contact would be awesome.

Jeger · **Posted:** Fri Jul 13, 2007 9:41 am

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=21971

There is the discussion about this. Contact info included.

cumminspilot · **Posted:** Mon Jul 16, 2007 2:33 am

For those of you running a lift pump what pressure is the max and why? I would like to adopt a fass pump and remove the filter assembly entirely. I know that this cp3 is different than the cummins but how can a few # of pressure be detrimental especially if you are forceing it thru a 2 micron filter. With a 2 micron cat filter on my truck I still have 17# of fuel at wot. I think that fass can get this pressure down to 8# or so and I was just wondering if this would work?

The euro version of the filter head looks much better than what we got but do they run a lift pump? I think that they do just based on the fact that our cp3 seems to be an orphan and not available. If the euro used it would it not be more available? Could the euro version be adopted to our engine?

please excuse all of the stupid questions I'm just trying to reinvent the wheel

Cowcatcher · **Posted:** Mon Jul 16, 2007 3:11 am

cumminspilot wrote:

The euro version of the filter head looks much better than what we got but do they run a lift pump? I think that they do just based on the fact that our cp3 seems to be an orphan and not available. If the euro used it would it not be more available? Could the euro version be adopted to our engine?

please excuse all of the stupid questions I'm just trying to reinvent the wheel

I don't know that we have yet determined if the Euro version uses a different head today. We may only have pictures from the earlier 2.5 version which used this seemingly standard RACOR filter head. This filter is available for between $100 and $200 depending on which model, filtration and if you order a heater or not.

There are no stupid questions. :lol:

BankNote4X4 · **Posted:** Mon Jul 16, 2007 10:32 am

Speaking of reinventing,

1. bbertram, did the loctite treatment prove successful?
2. Anyone, Will the continuous air problem burn up the pump?
3. Is anyone curently working on installing an aftermarket filter head?
4. Any idea what and when might come about from the feds saftey check?

I am continuously dealing with air after the CAT. My biggest concern is the pump or other problems this may cause. Is the pump subject to wear from air pockets up until failure? Or does it work uneffected until an air pocket creates catastrophic failure?

Thanks,
Josh

The New Fuel Filter, Filter Head, Lift Pump Thread

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