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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2007 9:56 am 
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DadsDiesel wrote:
I guess MAF isn't what I meant. I want to clean the one that gets all gunked up.

That would be the MAP sensor or Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor located on top of the intake manifold. In the CRD technical thread there should be information on how to locate and clean that sensor.
DadsDiesel wrote:
If I have it straight... the EGR won't open with the plug "unplugged" for the ORM?! Yes?

Yes
DadsDiesel wrote:
But then it throws a CEL? Yes? The board is what keeps the CEL for that off right?

You're correct it will throw a CEL and the ORM circuit will keep the CEL from being displayed on your dashboard.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2007 7:44 pm 
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i skimmed through this thread i have a few comments

1) my solinoid died at about 28K (im at 30K so its my first offence)
2) will my CRD pass AZ smog inspection if the ERG is broken, or operating "stealth disabled" (yes stupid stupid AZ in my county makes me smog a diesel)
3) if i leave the EGR operational and keep the CCV oil out of the mix, will the EGR last longer?
4) Is it possible that the ORM has somthing to contribute to the failure?
5) isnt the exhaust gas intake lower pressure than the clean air intake b/c its after turbo air intake, so how does this even work w/ out causing air to go the wrong way?

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LIFT #s Front engine skid 12" @Rear Diff 10.5" @running board 21" @tx case 16"
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2007 10:34 pm 
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Based on previous posts – I think the correct answers are

1) Data point noted
2) Texas only has a ‘safety’ inspection for diesels – however a CEL on will fail – the light has to be off. On a real tailpipe sniffer – it depends on the NOx produced vs limits allowed – no idea on that one.
3) the EGR goes from exhaust line to intake – post Turbo, the CCV goes from valve cover to intake – pre-turbo – there should not be much if any interaction. The CCV mods (Provent, EHM) are to keep the intercooler clean.
4) One of the writeups said the early EGR’s had plastic gears that had temperature reliability issues – the new ones have metal gears, the ORM while it’s activated should not have an impact on those. However if you plug the MAF back in – then the gears will have to deal with any gunk that may have accumulated on the valve surface, so I can envision turning ORM on/off as causing problems – but not just leaving it off.
5) Yes however someone was sneaky and decided to reduce the pressure in the intake manifold while the EGR is operating – they did this by partially closing the flow control valve – reduces the cross-sectional area – reduces the pressure, allowing the exhaust to be pulled in (and partially choking the engine in the process)

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2007 11:46 pm 
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hey man thanks, i was wondering about that stuff. Ya i just moved to az and they have emmissions checks on diesels here, its a new concept to me. Tx just did a like, 12$ safty inspection, that was sweet.

Im sure all things mentioned below are prolly coverd somewhere so if so, sorry =(

Ideas:
1)If you just put a spacer ring between the solinoid and the valve so the little plunger couldnt actuate the valve?
2)better yet remove the solinoid and put voltage to it to make the doober stick out, then grind the stub off. :D it will still click back and forth, but will not move the valve. or will that make it permenently suck Exhaust gas (backwards)? I couldnt determine from the pics and description how it sensed failure of solinoid to throw the CEL.
3)That water jacket seems like it would be handy to have on the fresh air intake streem, re-routing fresh air stream through both intakes on valve, however more complex would seem to be the best of all worlds (farmboy's original post, srry if i got the name wrong im on cellphone internet and it UBER too slow to check get his name right). Is that water jacket right there or burried somewhere too imposible to run the fresh air through

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2008 Tacoma:
4.0-liter DOHC EFI V6 with VVT-i ... 236hp 266Ft-lbs
265-70R16 BFG Rugged Trail (stock).... Rear Locker (stock)
Bilstine 2.5" lift front + ProComp AAL 2" lift rear
LIFT #s Front engine skid 12" @Rear Diff 10.5" @running board 21" @tx case 16"
6spd Manual Tranny
http://o8k.ifp3.com <-- My Photo gallery


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 1:09 am 
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After reading through this thread I am more appreciative of the entrepeneurs that worked out the EGR bypass procedures and parts necessary (straight race pipe in place of EGR valve, blockoff plates, rerouted coolant hoses & vacum hoses) to allow me to remove both the EGR Valve and the EGR cooler and modify the ECU to eliminate the associated CEL on my TDI.

I can relate to the picture of the TDI EGR valve. Mine wasn't quite that bad when I removed it at 70,000 miles but my intake manifold also had enough soot buildup forming that it took a can of cleaner and a couple dollars of quarters at the local car wash to get it cleaned up.

I am fortunate enough to live in a state that doesn't mandate testing for diesel propelled vehicles. Removing the EGR valve does have one drawback on the TDI that I'm not sure the CRD would run into - The EGR valve on the TDI contains the anti-shudder valve that shuts down the engine in the case of a runaway turbo and prevents the engine from blowing. TDI owners have to use an alternate means to shut down the engine in the case of a runaway turbo.

I'm not sure if the same procedures and parts could be developed for the CRD but I would certainly sign up to purchase the appropriate bypass parts if they became available.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 8:02 am 
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The initial problem with bypass's is that the computer is looking for a varying feedback signal - it will autocorrect for a constant signal. That's what the tech_Tim's ORM box does.

Farmboss had a mechanical method - blocking the EGR and routing intake air to the FCV - however he never posted pictures or more information and I'm pretty sure the thread got deleted because of some commets.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 3:41 pm 
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not me, TurboTim.

from what I know of this mod it is;
1: stealthy, fools the cpu to think that the egr etc.. is working normally= no CEL, no code during inspection, if done well, invisible to the untrained and trained alike, black box around the size of a jumbo deck of playing cards that can go most anywhere and looks stock.

2: it works, search TurboTim's posts for mileage to date, it's in the thousands, maybe more by now

but,

3: requires electrical know how and experience to install/build. LocoCRD has a kit for sale for around 65 bucks, but it requires DIY.

I'm still waiting for my kit, I can and will build and install, but if there is a guy that could make the kit more "plug-n-play" they would be a super hero to a bunch of the less willing/able CRDers out there.

my .02

keep this one going, we'll have the best diesel on the continent soon :D

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 Post subject: Re: egr normal state
PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 9:24 pm 
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XJJeepGirl wrote:
Because of the spring action the default state of the EGR is closed. It requires power to the solenoid to open it. I'd say just unplug the solenoid and live with the cell being on all the time. Just plug it back when you go to the dealer.


I am working on this right now. I have a Kerma tune on my jeep. I am trying to unplug the Solenoid but it is pretty tight in there. I want to verify that the EGR is completely off by unplugging it and checking if there is no CEL. My engine sounds a tiny bit different at idle than before but others have stated that the SEGR makes it sound slightly different.

Basicly, if we can get the Kerma tune to not set off a cel when the EGR is disconnected, you could flash the computer back to the stock settings using the q-loader and plug the EGR back in for those unfortunate dealer visits!

Results pending as time permits. Work and vacation have taken a toll on my tinkering!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 11:30 pm 
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Don’t be surprised if the CEL light goes on when you unplug the EGR. Just because the CPU doesn’t “Use” the EGR is different than the CPU polling it to “See” if the EGR is still there and ready for action.
A person could use a O’Scope to see if it really is being used. Also a DVM could be used to see if the voltage increases during different driving periods. Not as good as a scope, but useful. (One would have to connect the DVM from +12 Volts to the EGR wire. Remember that one side of the EGR is connected to +12 Volts, and the other side the CPU grounds in pulses. As the pulses get bigger or longer on-time, the voltage read on the DVM would also increase).


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