Any updates on that fuel economy?

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2005 CRD Limited Flame Red w/ Renegade rock rails & light bar, AirLift 1000. 225/75R16 MT/R's on cheap black steel wheels, dual MOPAR subwoofers, Ipod kit & seat covers, Samco hoses - totaled and gone. 2008 WK Laredo 3.0L diesel - AirLift 1000, wife won't let me mess with it much. 2013 JK Sahara on order.

Ranger1 told me that on his last trip to Myrtle Beach SC, 200 miles each way, plus several days driving around in town, he averaged out just over 30 mpg combined for the entire trip. And from personal experience, I can assure you he wasn't babying that beast!

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Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

Hmm, I'm not seeing anywhere near that. We are getting 25mpg with the Suncoast + ORM. My wife's daily commute is about 40 miles highway and 5 miles city. We were getting 23-24mpg before the Suncoast.

It would be interesting to drive someone else's CRD with the Suncoast to see if there is something amiss with ours.

- Chris

Chris - I still think part of it is differences in the CRDs - I have NEVER got much over 25 on the open road, and typically get 24 or so. I drive really conservatively too. Just my 2cents worth though.

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2006 CRD Sport 4X4, bought 6 July 2006, born 5/20/2006 1900 hrs.
Mods N Things:
235/70r16 Wrangler SilentArmor, ProVent, Gasser airbox, CAT filter, Kennedy lift pump, fuel cooler, Evic from wrecked 05 KJ, factory skidplates, towhooks, OME 2" CRD lift, Magnaflow 12256 muffler, Alpine stereo & XM "stealth antenna" install

I'm always around 25mpg's per tank 50/50 but as Mitch can attest I like the bottom end as well.

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2006 CRD Limited
V6 Air Filter Box Mod with Amsoil EaA-201 Air Filter
Mann Provent CCV Filter
Magnaflow Muffler
Mopar Skids
Mobil 1 5W40
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Amsoil Throughout

1000 miles on mine so far - I can still tell the shift kit's there - although it has softened up from the initial drives.
I've filled up 3 times - +1.5 mpg, +2 mpg, +.7mpg over my long term average - since I'm doing manual calculation and my long term Std Dev is 1.57 - I really need another 3-4 tanks to see if that's statistically significant.

For me the most significant point - is on my drive to work - I have a hill, Stoplight at the bottom - 65 mph freeway at the top - My FJ80 could almost hit 45 at the top - I thought I was going to be run over every day I drove it - on the CRD - pre F37 - I had to slow down to 65 before I got to the top - after F37 - I couldn't hit 65 - with the Suncoast - I'm a little better than 65 - so I improved overall acceleration - now I doubt that the mileage while going 65 changed at all - it's locked up per the computer - just how fast it gets there.

Now - was it worth it? - it's not dollar wise cost effective - but it makes my Jeep a lot more fun to drive and that's really what I was looking for.

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

so rather than go threw this whole thread what are the part #'s for everything torque converter shift kit and misc? and how is everyones trans doing with the upgrades? mine doesnt seem to like me anymore so what better of a time to upgrade.

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daily driver:06 midnight blue jeep liberty CRD sport.
mods: CRD frakenlift, 245/75R16 grabbers on Soft 8's,All J interior rack,front hitch,custom intake,ORM, EHM GDE hot tune
141k miles

Anybody????

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2016 JKU RUBICON

other mods coming soon...

I did this and am very happy. The torque converter comes from Sun Coast Converters Inc.(just search the web) and you get the TransGo shift kit there as well. The 2007 tranny pump is a kit that also includes the tranny cooler(my shop said it was "higher performance"), redesigned cover, and the 2 filters. You get this from Chrysler, I didn't need a part #. You need to use Mopars ATF+4 but will need to look back to get the amount (I think around 14 qts.). Find a good local tranny shop, or SunCoast can recommend geographically.
Now I am very satisfied performance is better and no chance of degrading or breaking the TC. MPG is ave 27.

Now we need the fuel head fix. I would like to know(on that thread) how to heat wrap and how to do a cooler on the return line and where to get the materials.

Diesel baby

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2006 CRD Sport Khaki

Lift Pump, Fuel Cooler
Raycor: head, filter, heater
Provent, ORM
SunCoast, TransGo, 2007 pump, B&M stacked plate tranny cooler
V6 Airbox, Wix Filter
AirLift 1000 Rear Air Bags
Fia front cover

Coming soon:
Fuel cooler bypass valve
InMotion tuning
new muffler
300,000 miles here I come

Hi all.
Sorry if I'm slow to this but I'm still trying to cut to the chace on the new pump part number for the 454RFE.

Number 68009879AB-- this is just the updated pump-no plate??

Number CECAF371 -- pump, housing, both filter, a/c o rings and cooler --full kit?

Please advice, thank you

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05 CRD Owner. Diesel good. Gas bad.

Gasser does not use the same automatic.

In Europe, a six speed manual is offered with the 2.8l CRD in the KJ and some other Jeeps, including the Wrangler.

Hi everyone 1st time poster long time observer

Im interested in this suncoast t/c and shift kit ALOT

I have had the f37 done and wished that i didnt, then i came up on the in motion site someone mentioned here so i had it done in an effort to get my power back.

Im in australia and you can imagine how nervous i was sending my ecm over there for the stage 2 tune

Anyways my question to anyone here that can help is: will the suncoast t/c stop my problem of slipping out of lockup?

Does the suncoast have a bigger lockup clutch surface area that will stop slipping or am i on my own?

I have sent ron a few emails hoping that he might be able to help but am yet to here back from him

Does someone on here have the inmotion tune and did you experience this after aswell?

Thanks guys for any help you can offer!!!

Maybe. If it is slipping out of lockup because the converter is worn (which is why they did F37 and de-powered the engine during highway lockup cruising) -- it will solve it. If it is slipping out because the seal in the tranny is tore-- no. It will still slip out. You need a tranny shop to check the tranny pump seals to make sure they are not torn (causing low line pressure).



I don't know if it is much bigger but... much much better lockup cluth material. Not cheap and underbuilt like the stock DC unit. It will not come out of lockup if everything else is working as it should.

hey pablo thanks for your quick reply

i would also like to add that my kj is a 2005 model and has only 13,000 kms on the clock
f37 was carried out at 12,000 kms and never slipped till i put the tuned ecm back in on monday just gone

i take your point about the reduced line pressure from a leaking pump seal (is this the t/c input shaft seal) will this be evident from a leak from the bellhousing area dripping onto the ground? or is this an internal pump seal?

How much of the F37 did they do? Was it just the TC, or did they replace the tranny oil pump and cooler as well?

From the sound of it, they just did the TC. Quite a few over here reported that they had to go back in for the new tranny pump as well - the old seals on the installed pump didn't want to play with the new torque converter - they set up due to heat and don't want to flex and conform to the new mating surface.

If you're going to do the Suncoast and the shift kit, I'd get the new design tranny pump as well. If they did the ENTIRE F37 on yours, you should already have it. From what Suncoast and my local tranny guy have said, it's a much better designed pump, at least for reliability and longevity.

As far as the Inmotion tune, drop a PM to crdmike, he's been running with it for quite some time. I got a chance to drive it with the tune just after he had the Suncoast, shift kit, and new tranny pump installed, and that thing is a flat-out BEAST!!!

From my experience with the 100+ F weather the past two weeks, having to run the A/C full blast, that combo A/C condenser/tranny cooler just isn't up to the task. Before with the old sloppy stock TC, you couldn't notice the difference. But now, with the Suncoast TC and everything nice and tight, you can definitely tell when the tranny is getting overly warm and the electronics are making it back off on the shift points and performance. I'd definitely consider adding an aux tranny cooler.

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

Now that some of you have had the suncoast convert in for quite a while, do you guys regret doing the upgrade? Would you do this again? Does the Jeep seem to like the new TC?
I think my TC is going south and I do not want to replace it with another factory bandaid.

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2006 CRD Sport

thanks retmil for the info
as far as i know only the t/c was replaced i think i will do the pump when i do the suncoast t/c as you say
i am still waiting on ron from suncoast to reply to my emails and see if he will send one to australia so i can stick it in!
fingers crossed!!

Ron ramped up the R & D for this project about a year ago and is probably busy with something new. Your best bet is to call in your order.

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2006 CRD Limited
V6 Air Filter Box Mod with Amsoil EaA-201 Air Filter
Mann Provent CCV Filter
Magnaflow Muffler
Mopar Skids
Mobil 1 5W40
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Amsoil Throughout

Retmil46...

I thought that the sloppy/slipping TC was causing the excess heat and the Suncoast was supposed to stop the slipping and therefore run cooler. Why would the new suncoast cause more heat? Also, is it truly overheating or is your gauge cycling to the H and then back to normal? Mine does this constantly. Some say that a TSB fixes this but it never fixed mine.

Dave

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2005 Black CRD Sport
All J CRD Frankenlift with 500 fronts, Boulderbars, and Superskid
Kilby Gas Skid
Yukon Rear Axles
265/75 16 TrXus M/T's and Bridgestone Revo's
Fumoto Valve
Aero Turbine 2525
Rock Lizard Komodo Bumper
Sundance Custom's Front Bumper

The Suncoast does not make it run hotter-- it should make it run cooler at speed as it is not shifting out of lockup as much. What retmil is probably saying is that it makes the pre-existing problems more noticeable. Once you turn your AC on full blast and run the tranny under hard conditions (stop and go)-- that heat exchanger gets heat soaked with all the heat coming from the tranny and the ac at the same time-- and it can't do its job very well. This would happen regardless of the torque converter installed (stock or suncoast) as stop and go driving means the lockup is not engaged and thus you are fluid coupled and shifting up and down quite a bit.

The hot fluid then causes the computer to cut back power from the motor to keep the tranny from getting too hot. Since the previous converter was crap, you did not notice this much (because performance sucked anyway). With the new one it is easier to tell. I have enough issues with the fuel getting hot that I don't worry much about the new torque converter. I will probably do an extra tranny cooler at the same time I do the fuel cooler.

Also, you cannot tell from the guage in the vehicle how hot your tranny is-- that guage measures your engine coolant temp, not transmission fluid temp. Your engine will not budge off the dead middle, but the tranny temps could be soaring (this often happens coasting down a hill and engine breaking with an auto tranny when the lockout is not engaged).