SEGR/ORM Kit Builder's Thread

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2007 8:46 pm

Yes you could add the switch, but why? Any failure of any circuit will cause the CPU to throw a CEL and would be the same as pulling the MAF connector off.
The point of using a jumper plug was to put the system back to original and remove any evidence of the ORM box for those that have to go to the stealership or other reasons.

Since I have put my circuit in, the CEL has never came back on, I like the performance, and I have just forgotten about it. Life is good.....

crdblazr · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2007 11:06 pm

Thanks, LocoCRD and Turbo Tim, for your replies.

After thinking it through some more, I'll probably just go with the jumper plug as you've suggested. Sounds like I should have a jumper plug anyway, and there really is no point to have both a jumper plug and a toggle switch.

dgeist · **Posted:** Thu Aug 09, 2007 12:39 am

crdblazr wrote:

Thanks, LocoCRD and Turbo Tim, for your replies.

After thinking it through some more, I'll probably just go with the jumper plug as you've suggested. Sounds like I should have a jumper plug anyway, and there really is no point to have both a jumper plug and a toggle switch.

If you really want to have a toggle switch, you could just connect a simple one with a connection to ground at the same point where the lead from the TCM goes into the board. With the circuit completed, the circuit would always stay off and with it open, it'd operate as normal (ORM mode).

Dan

edon · **Posted:** Thu Aug 09, 2007 9:51 am

dgeist wrote:

If you really want to have a toggle switch, you could just connect a simple one with a connection to ground at the same point where the lead from the TCM goes into the board...

Wouldn't you need to prevent the TCM from getting grounded when you flip the switch or would it matter?

dgeist · **Posted:** Thu Aug 09, 2007 5:50 pm

edon wrote:

dgeist wrote:

If you really want to have a toggle switch, you could just connect a simple one with a connection to ground at the same point where the lead from the TCM goes into the board...

Wouldn't you need to prevent the TCM from getting grounded when you flip the switch or would it matter?

Good point, needs a diode I guess. It would make anything else that uses that trigger circuit from the TCM think that the vehicle was always in p/n

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Thu Aug 09, 2007 10:55 pm

I would NOT do that! If that AFC valve is put back in while driving down the road, it will close to choke the engine to force the (supposed) EGR air into the intake manifold. (This is what it is supposed to be doing to make this whole EGR thing work in the first place).
If you switch the AFC back in, then why are you even considering doing the ORM circuit in the first place?

skywarn · **Posted:** Fri Aug 10, 2007 10:37 am

does anyone have pics of the kit yet?

nix · **Posted:** Fri Aug 10, 2007 2:53 pm

skywarn wrote:

does anyone have pics of the kit yet?

Here is a pic of the parts that come with the kit.. I haven't decided to start yet as it looks more difficult to make than I expected. There's also some extra parts (screws/nuts) you still need to buy that don't come with the kit.. and you have to trim and cut various parts that won't fit in the metal box. I havent' started the build yet- just looked over the instruction sheet.. so I may be wrong.. but this is how it seems.

irunmiles · **Posted:** Fri Aug 10, 2007 4:13 pm

Ditto on what nix said about it being more difficult than expected. I don't trust my capabilities to make those close solder connections. I'm now in search of somebody locally with more experience to complete the board.

bugnout · **Posted:** Fri Aug 10, 2007 5:05 pm

For those of you who don't think you have the ability to solder but would like to learn: You should collect the stuff you need and practice. Its easy and a couple of hours desoldering and resoldering on an old circuit board will give you the confidence to tackle this. A new skill learned is priceless.

Buy, borrow a soldering iron suitable for PC boards, 15 watt is plenty big enough. Look at the tip when you buy it make sure its got a chisle point small enough for the pads your going to be working on. Source: Radio Shack, Harbor Frieght, Northern Tool, Internet, Ebay, etc. Runs $10 -$15

Buy some flux core solder , 60/40 Lead/Tin is good, they 63/36 with the optimum melting point for IC's better, Don't use plumbers solder, its mostly lead and often has a very corrosive flux, not suitable for PC boards. Source same as soldering iron. From RS about $2.00

Solder wick or a solder sucker, Solder wick is copper mesh used to pick up melted solder to clean it off the board. A solder sucker is just that, a vacume pump to suck the melted solder off the pad. I know Harbor Frieght has them, RS probably as well. about $7.00 There are desoldering irons out there with a little pump attached but I've never liked them, don' t work very well, I'd skip them.

Now find some broken 10+ year old electronic device, that has components similiar to the kit and practice desoldering and soldering the components on. You will probably damage parts and lift pads off the board, but thats how we all learned.

LocoCRD · **Posted:** Sun Aug 12, 2007 5:38 pm

Just a recommendation...I'd solder the connector pins to the wires after crimping them. I have almost completed the build and will report once It is installed this week.

Dennis

ccattie · **Posted:** Tue Aug 14, 2007 3:37 pm

Anybody in Delaware, SouthEastern PA, Southern NJ, Eastern MD do one yet? I'd prefer to not do it by myself.
-c

CATCRD · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2007 4:36 pm

Would it be beneficial to pot this assembly after completion and test? I can have a buddy at work pot it really fast, but it would have to be baked. I don't know the specs on that oven temp.

LocoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2007 11:09 pm

I just installed mine this evening and placed the enclosed circuit box behind the panel under the fuse box. I figured that it would live better at cabin temps. I also used a silicone based PCB board insullation that I picked up at the local electronics supply house. I just sprayed it on the board after building it and let it dry for 24 hours.

Any way down to the important part. After splicing it in I fired up the CRD and cleared the codes. NO MORE CEL Yeah! It worked. I"ll almost miss that little yellow friend, NOT! Lets hear some more success stories out there.

Dennis

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2007 11:26 pm

Yeeeeeeeee Haaawwwwwwww!!!! About Time!
Now I know all those long nights, hot days, (ya, ya, ya) just wasn't a dream. It works.. This is so cool. Glad to hear it....

LocoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2007 11:34 pm

Thanks so much Tim. Your connector pinouts and schematics were invaluable. If you are ever in Rio Rancho there is a steak and cold one with your name on it.

Dennis

jdorris · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2007 11:49 pm

I would love some picks of your finished board and of the install. I am tackling this this weekend.

USNA · **Posted:** Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:36 am

Went to LocoCRD's for help in installing the board. With his help and patience it worked out great.

Cleared codes after install and no codes or check engine light. Very peaceful to drive vehicle with no check engine light illuminated.

Sorry I just found this thread so no pictures.

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Thu Aug 16, 2007 8:10 pm

Good, good, good!!! Ok now, don't drop the ball. Take some pictures so the rest can see what you guys did.
Some day I just might take you up on that steak! (You could always come to Phoeinx too).

How about some reports on performance too. Notice any difference?
I keep hearing a squeeling sound from the rear tires when I nail it.......

LocoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:43 pm

I thought I had taken more but here is what was on the camera. The first is the completed board of course. The 2nd is where I mounted it behind the panel in front of the drivers door under the fuse box. The third is not a very good pic, It is trying to show where I came through the firewall on the drivers side. I poked a hole through the rubber insullation where there was already a large harness coming through the wall. Then I ran everything up to the wire raceway above the brake booster like on Tim's pics. Everything from there is the same as Tim's pics except I only had to take the TCM wire across the engine bay to splice into the TCM, everything else was done at the ECM connectors.

Dennis

SEGR/ORM Kit Builder's Thread

Who is online