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 Post subject: Re: RE: Oil Pan Thread size
PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 4:16 pm 
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v8dak wrote:
I got an email from VM Motori, that says the thread size is 16MM X 1.50
That was my thought, but local dealership said no as did Greg at LubricationSpecialest. It is close, but no cigar as they say.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 4:47 pm 
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We have 9 adapters left to go with the Fumoto valve. Once these are gone thats it. Not enough interest in them to make more.

Greg

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 10:18 pm 
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Has anyone tried 3/8 NPT?

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 7:30 am 
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danoid wrote:
Has anyone tried 3/8 NPT?


:shock: I just screwed my original drain plug (I have a Fomoto) into a female 3/8th pipe fitting and it appeared to be a perfect fit for someone with buggered threads. Being tapered they would tighten as they went in. I wouldn't try it unless my threads were messed up but it may be a good alternative to retapping :lol:

EDIT: The original plug is not tapered like most NPT's are. However I've seen mentioned on a mahine tool group that there's a untapered standard pipe thread now :?:

Good find!
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Last edited by Joe Romas on Sat Aug 18, 2007 9:03 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 8:54 am 
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I have it on good authority that it's not a Metric thread. It's a 3/8 pipe thread of some sort. NPT, NPSC, NPSF or any one of half a dozen different American standards or a 19 threads/inch British standard.

I'm researching...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 9:05 am 
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danoid wrote:
I have it on good authority that it's not a Metric thread. It's a 3/8 pipe thread of some sort. NPT, NPSC, NPSF or any one of half a dozen different American standards or a 19 threads/inch British standard.

I'm researching...
It is not any standard thread of any kind from what a local machinest has told me, it is a custom thread, these are refered to in the machinest world as a b@stard thread and are usually done to to prevent loss of torque from viberation, use of unauthorized parts or adaption to other uses not intended for the original useage.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 1:34 pm 
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Joe Romas wrote:
danoid wrote:
Has anyone tried 3/8 NPT?


:shock: I just screwed my original drain plug (I have a Fomoto) into a female 3/8th pipe fitting and it appeared to be a perfect fit for someone with buggered threads. Being tapered they would tighten as they went in. I wouldn't try it unless my threads were messed up but it may be a good alternative to retapping :lol:

EDIT: The original plug is not tapered like most NPT's are. However I've seen mentioned on a mahine tool group that there's a untapered standard pipe thread now :?:

Good find!
Joe


Has been for some time the threads used by most electricians are basically strait and only have a few tapered at the end. This is unlike the threads used in plumbing that have a couple non tapered starter threads and then taper away to nothing.

K

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 Post subject: 3/8 British Gas
PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2007 11:33 am 
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The oil pan plug is specified on the print as '3/8 GAS'. This is european shorthand for 'British Standard Specification for Pipe threads for tubes and fittings where pressure-tight joints are made on the threads." Or for the technical BS 21 : 1985 - 3/8 nominal.

It's similar to our 3/8 NPT except for two critical things. It's 19 threads per inch and 55° flank threads (vs. 18 tpi and 60° like the American spec that we call 'Engligh').

PM me with your e-mail if you want a copy of the BS spec. (Honestly that's what they call them - they're issued by the British Standards Institution)

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2007 3:26 pm 
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Found some I think, 3/8 equates to a number 6 fitting.

BSPP Countersunk Sealed Plug, 9028-06 $4.18 ea
Image
BSPP Hex Head Plug, 9030-06 $3.00 ea
Image

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 10:17 pm 
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Got around to changing my oil today and tried out the BSPP Countersunk sealed plug with a copper washer. I cleaned up the skid plate and sprayed everything down with brake cleaner and will see if there are any leaks in the next couple of days. Here are some pictures of the three.

Stock on the left, Countersunk, and Hex Head.
Image
Image
Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:09 pm 
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I didn't do my first oil change but my plug did not have a Allen like that, it has a Hex head.


K

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:39 pm 
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Yup, looks like the countersunk plug is almost an exact replacement. It doesn't have the same shoulder as the stock plug does and the head is about twice as thick, but the stock plug comes with a copper washer that pretty much negates the effect of the shoulder anyway and the extra thickness of the head shouldn't be a factor. I like the Hex head, its 20mm and I prefer that over the hex drive, but that plug is a bit longer, and I wasn't ready to see if there would be clearance problems. I thought about adding a thick copper washer/s to reduce the depth it penetrated, but wanted to try out the closer match first.

The thread seems to be an exact fit, I didn't have to force it at all, just snugged it down like the stock plug.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:46 pm 
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bugnout wrote:
Found some I think, 3/8 equates to a number 6 fitting.

BSPP Countersunk Sealed Plug, 9028-06 $4.18 ea
Image
BSPP Hex Head Plug, 9030-06 $3.00 ea
Image

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com


Guys,
BSPP = British Standard Pipe Parallel thread. Very common pipe fitting thread in hydraulics etc for us colonials. Thread form etc is identical to BSP except these are normally tapered, the extra "P" just ensures everyone knows it is a straight thread as per the pictures above.
The example with the captive O ring would be a good one to try. I've always found a steel plug in an aluminium sump or similar has a tendancy to lock up a little after a large number of heat/cool down cycles that you see in engines or hydraulics. I've even seen it with steel plugs to steel sumps.
Having said that I have never tightened the CRD sump plug with a torque wrench and have no leaks.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 10:12 am 
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MACKJ wrote:

Guys,
BSPP = British Standard Pipe Parallel thread. Very common pipe fitting thread in hydraulics etc for us colonials. Thread form etc is identical to BSP except these are normally tapered, the extra "P" just ensures everyone knows it is a straight thread as per the pictures above.
The example with the captive O ring would be a good one to try. I've always found a steel plug in an aluminium sump or similar has a tendancy to lock up a little after a large number of heat/cool down cycles that you see in engines or hydraulics. I've even seen it with steel plugs to steel sumps.
Having said that I have never tightened the CRD sump plug with a torque wrench and have no leaks.


For us Yanks the exact type of thread has been a mystery until danoid hit the mark. You guys from Oz have been keeping it secret :D They get all the good stuff downunder, a CRD Renegade was not available in the states, Besides the light bar and the flat hood what else did it come with?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 3:36 pm 
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bugnout wrote:
Found some I think, 3/8 equates to a number 6 fitting.

BSPP Countersunk Sealed Plug, 9028-06 $4.18 ea
Image
BSPP Hex Head Plug, 9030-06 $3.00 ea
Image

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com


I think I might try to see if it's possible to tap a 1/4 NPT thu the middle of one of those. It will create some very thin wall conditions - might not survive the tapping process...

BING - instant Fumoto adapter and it's shorter than the one from Lubrication Specialists (no offense meant to Mr. Greg). It might also be possible to tilt the Fumoto valve to move it further from the skid.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 8:28 pm 
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[quote="bugnout
For us Yanks the exact type of thread has been a mystery until danoid hit the mark. You guys from Oz have been keeping it secret :D They get all the good stuff downunder, a CRD Renegade was not available in the states, Besides the light bar and the flat hood what else did it come with?[/quote]

The 05 renegade came in two forms; both had the flat hood but one version had driving lights on the front bumper and unpainted wheel arches. The "extreme sport" model didn't have the driving lights but the wheel arches were painted body colour. Neither version had the light bar as standard equipment, only supplied as an option.

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