SEGR/ORM Kit Builder's Thread

techTim · **Posted:** Sun Aug 19, 2007 1:47 am

TurboTim, LocoCRD;

my limited experience with building boards is leaving me a bit out of sorts,
I have a couple questions RE polarity.

1] LocoCRD, on the poop sheet, C1 and C2: they are polarity sensitive, yes? I have them with the long leg thru the square marked hole, just a guess at this point.

2] C3,4,5 do not appear to be polarity sensitive, yes?

3] D1,2,3 diodes, red tape end/black band =+ , correspond with the square marked hole/band print on board, yes?

further, for the rest of the guys and gals here, a bit of clarity;

on the poop sheet; first two of the four columns reads from top to bottom, last two columns read from left to right, I figured this out before it was to late, here's a link for color coding of resistors, I had to go back and change R13,14,15, no catastrophe.

http://www.geocities.com/aliciainelpaso ... r-code.gif

(Note 1): has some double speak; ignore the underlined part

"10ohm resistor get wired in between ohm power resistor get wired in between connection 3(12V) & connection (CPU EGR Output)"

next up is the physical build, I should have no problems here, but like anything new and exciting, go slow, done right the first time is much better than done right after a couple tries.

Thanks again for all the work on this much needed mod, nest up, retmil's lift pump and cooler, then the CAT filter, bwah ha ha ha :twisted:

LocoCRD · **Posted:** Sun Aug 19, 2007 10:36 am

1] LocoCRD, on the poop sheet, C1 and C2: they are polarity sensitive, yes? I have them with the long leg thru the square marked hole, just a guess at this point.
That is correct, the long leg on C1 and C2 is + and goes into the square hole. There is also a small + sign silk screened on the cap and the board too.

2] C3,4,5 do not appear to be polarity sensitive, yes?
This is also correct you may put C3,C4, and C5 in as you choose there is no polarity on these components.

3] D1,2,3 diodes, red tape end/black band =+ , correspond with the square marked hole/band print on board, yes?
The black banded end of the diodes goes to the end the of the board which also has a band silk screened where the diode goes, I believe this also goes in the square hole.

further, for the rest of the guys and gals here, a bit of clarity;

Sorry about the typo in note one, it was late when I put the insrtructions together. Let me know if you have any other questions...

(Note 1): has some double speak; ignore the underlined part

"10ohm resistor get wired in between ohm power resistor get wired in between connection 3(12V) & connection (CPU EGR Output)"

techTim · **Posted:** Sun Aug 19, 2007 12:26 pm

no harm, no foul, just thought others with less experience (like me) might need a bit of help, thanks for the quick reply. I will probably solder today and get the build complete and ready for install when I do the oil change etc in a couple weeks.

again, MUCH thanks for all this

techTim · **Posted:** Sun Aug 19, 2007 6:31 pm

how do I explain to my better half my newfound electrical hobby? :roll:

it's bad enough that I get two subscriptions to motorcycle magazines, buy RC mags at random, post on this board, and the RC rock crawler board, own two bikes, two RC cars, one plane, one small heli, and now of all things i'm into soldering PCB's? :twisted:

could be worse, my RC stuff could be full size :shock:

as it is, the money I spend on scale projects keeps in line with their relative size (almost :oops:

)

thanks for the ramble, got my board soldered during #1 son's nap today, he's stirring now, so the rest of the build will happen later tonight. I found a ton of help online for circuit board stuff, and of course here.

maybe next project is a scale liberty?

:twisted:

now to find a 1/10 diesel powerplant.....he Heh haha.......

nix · **Posted:** Sun Aug 19, 2007 7:28 pm

techTim wrote:

now to find a 1/10 diesel powerplant.....he Heh haha.......

I used to run a RC10GT r/c truck with the davis diesel conversion on the motor.. http://www.davisdieseldevelopment.com/home.htm Pretty hard to start but it ran forever on a single tank of diesel. Fast too.. but smelly. I got run out of a few RC tracks because of the smell. :lol:

LocoCRD · **Posted:** Sun Aug 19, 2007 10:28 pm

For those who have not built there's up yet one more tip.

Start with one particular resistor value like 10K and solder all those in, then on to 100K, etc....

USNA · **Posted:** Tue Aug 21, 2007 11:21 am

Fuel mileage up two miles per gallon on first tank.

Drive ability improved also shift quality improved.

Definitely worth the time, trouble.

LocoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Aug 22, 2007 12:19 pm

Couple more tips for the ORM build.

First, the enclosure should be mounted to a metal contact point, capable of removing the heat that the power resistor can produce. If not the temperatures could approach the design limits of standard electronic parts, some of which are 40*C or 104*F. Turbo Tim has mounted his ORM under his hood and temps have I'm sure far exceeded recomend limits so again this is just a recomendation for longevity.

Second, I also recomend putting a 3-4 amp fuse inline with the 12v supply to the ORM box. This is probably overkill, but better to be safe IMO.

LocoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Aug 22, 2007 8:28 pm

Here is how the final mounting looks. I took a piece of aluminum and attatched it to the ORM box and then used the large bolt holding the bracket for the dash to bolt it to the body. I replaced the bolt with a longer one of course. I used heat sink compound between the ORM box and the aluminum as well as between the aluminum and the bracket. Just thought I'd share.

LocoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Aug 23, 2007 11:02 am

In case the crickets here are interested, I have yet to put a full tank though the CRD, but the EVIC shows a marked improvement in in town MPG. I also have quite a bit more pep upon take off compared to before. Loco likes...

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Thu Aug 23, 2007 8:51 pm

Do you have the same problem that I do with the tires squeekin' when you nail it?

LocoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Aug 23, 2007 9:27 pm

Yes and the more I have that problem, the bigger I grin...Hehe

jdorris · **Posted:** Fri Aug 24, 2007 12:47 am

I soldered up the board last weekend. I plan to wire it into the jeep this weekend. My wife drives it during the week, so my crd time is limited...for now. As soon as she finds the car she likes, that baby is mine. As soon as i get is in, I will post an update or two.

jdorris · **Posted:** Fri Aug 24, 2007 12:48 am

chirp chirp

Pablo · **Joined:** Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:06 pm **Posts:** 1201

I am going to wait for my 36,000 miles warranty to finish before installing this. With the 245 tires it is taking forever as the od reads low. After that I will have to bribe somebody to help show me how to get this thing together right but I am looking forward to it.

LocoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Aug 29, 2007 11:33 am

Ok I now have over 1000 miles on my Jeep after this mod, here is a quick summary of what I think I think...

In town mileage has jumped from 19 mpg to 23 mpg. We took a 700 mile road trip up to Colorado and back and averaged 29 on the road, which is my highest since putting the 255's on. The little beast is much more responsive on takeoff with the only side effect being a chirping sound from the tires upon launching. Warning this mod may cause large smiles...

edon · **Posted:** Thu Aug 30, 2007 1:24 am

LocoCRD, a quick question for you reguarding soldering these boards since I've never worked with a dual layer circuit board before (probably falls into the "If you have to ask, you shouldn't be doing this" catagory!). Do you need to solder the top layer to the (necessary) components separatly or does the solder "wick" through from the bottom if the heat temp is proper?

LocoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Aug 30, 2007 9:34 am

As long as you get a good solder joint at the bottom pad, then that is the right way to do it.

LocoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Aug 30, 2007 9:49 am

Good Job Bill!

techTim · **Posted:** Sun Sep 02, 2007 1:37 am

oooooh nice!

thanks for that.

that's my project for this weekend, that and an oil change.... and re-roof the deck if time allows.
:roll:

Loco, and turbo, if your lurking; when the ORM is in place, I assume the plugs for the components in question return to their factory position, ie, plug in the MAF, EGR, and anti shudder flapper. at this point a series of 3 start / cool cycles should clear the CEL? (I doubt that I can find a parts place open tomorrow evening, or monday for that matter, to use their reader.)

thanks, have a grand day of labor.

SEGR/ORM Kit Builder's Thread

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