I have purchased the OEM hitch and the wiring harness, but not the supplemental harness (parts guy at the local dealership said I did not need it).
My CRD does NOT have an EVIC.
I have the break lights
I have the turn signals
My running lights work on the Libby but not on the trailer - tried 2 different trailers + a 7to 4pin adapter that has a set of test lights. They all light up when I turn the signals are on and when the brake is engaged.

Questions:
1. I checked the fuse box - #25 looks OK. Is there a different fuse that would give me the running lights? I went thru the manual but no word about the trailer running lights.
2. What does the supplemental harness do for me?
3. Do I need the supplemental harness to get my trailer running lights going.

_________________
05 CRD FOR SALE

Euromade,

1: No. You should have running/clearance/taillights even with the 4-wire hook up.

2: The supplemental harness provides additional connections for electric trailer brakes (you still need to separately install a trailer brake controller), a switched/accessory 12V, and an auxiliary 12v (unswitched).

3: No, only if you are running a large trailer with electric brakes and a need for 12V power (like lighting inside a camper trailer)

Cheers,
Duey

_________________
2K9 Space Grey 335d Sport
2K1 Galaxy Blue Jetta TDI 5-sp

(1) Running light on the trailer are powered by a relay in the bundle in the right rear that's part of the trailer harness. Manual is very confusing
(2)Supplemental harness Gives you
....(a) the blue brake wire.
....(b) Power to the trailer for battery charginc etc. AND supplies the 12 volts to the relay for running lights. (FROM WIRE THAT GOES TO BATTERY)
....(c) Pick voltage to the relays that turns the running lights and trailer power on. (shown in the manual off fuse 25)
(3) Definetly.
The manual is written as if you have all possible cables installed at the factory. In addition the second cable hooks the relay pick current into the "convience outler" on the dash and it's on all the time instead of switched as is fuse 25. I redid mine to the rear of fuse 25 so now it's switched. On "B" there's a fuse in pos 10 under hood and the wire is already inside the jeep (just find it)

You are one of the "choosen few" and need the second cable

_________________
Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Oops...my bad, you're right Joe. I thought the power was coming from the main harness for the running lights as it does for the turn signals and brake lights (probably because I didn't do a continuity/voltage test until I had already installed the supplemental harness)...

Full report on how the supp harness works with those four wires removed from the female chassis-side connector to follow.

I'll also post pics of my install of my brake controller in a wee bit.

Cheers
Duey

_________________
2K9 Space Grey 335d Sport
2K1 Galaxy Blue Jetta TDI 5-sp

MODS: could we rename the thread, or split it, to something like "Non-EVIC equipped towing harness (and e-brake cont) install" or the like to make it a bit more descriptive? It sort of headed in a direction that a few folks might like to refer to. Thanks.

UPDATE: Re: (link) my issue with the supplemental wiring harness for non-EVIC equipped CRDs earlier in this thread:

I have tested all 7 wires in the connector and found them to be in perfect working order, so removing the four pre-existing wires from the connector as noted seems to have worked out.

I also promised to add pics of my brake controller install. In a nutshell, I wired my Tekonsha Voyager into the system (removable) using some blade connectors on the controller outputs, and buying a REESE e-brake harness for a Dodge Ram p/u (because that connector shape worked best with blades compared to GM/Furd/Toyota harnesses)

My Voyager controller and REESE/Dodge harness:



Close-up of the connector:



Close up of the harness brake signal and ground hooked up. I took the brake light switch harness off and tapped the brake signal (white w/ tan trace) about 4" from the switch itself and re-installed -- didn't want to break the "one-use only" switch.



Lt.blue controller wire from the Dodge harness tapped/butted to the supplemental harness trailer lead, and for powering the controller, I tapped of the supplemental harness's 12 ga. Batt+ wire that I had hooked up already to the battery with the 20A in-line fuse. I figured rather than go hunting for another 12V+ or sting another wire through the firewall, I'd just use the 20 amper from the supp harness I had already pulled through. I would not have any 12V load on in the trailer anyway while I'm towing, so I'm not fussed about twinning off the pk/lb 12V+ to power the controller...the ampacity is within spec per the instructions.



Controller mounted onto the black pedal cover (good access to remove/store the controller when not towing.)



I through-bolted the controller mount to the black plastic pedal quadrant cover -- the plastic is fairly robust for my needs and allows me access to the level, gain and manual slide, let's me see the status light, yet is non-obtrusive in the cabin.



What everything looks like under the dash. You can see the controller wires coming up from beneath the black cover to the white REESE connector, that I've zap-strapped the excess length and then branched off to the four connections (brake lt, grd, controller output, 12V+).




The end product! Electrically tested, works fine. Now to report elsewhere how the towing goes...


Hope that helps some who may have been wondering about the additional wires in the connector thing.


Cheers,
Duey

_________________
2K9 Space Grey 335d Sport
2K1 Galaxy Blue Jetta TDI 5-sp