Broken Steering Gear

06LTD · **Posted:** Thu Aug 30, 2007 5:46 pm

A few days ago the bracket that holds the rack and pinion steering gear housing to the frame broke. The bracket is part of the housing. I just got word from the dealer the warranty will not cover the cost of replacing the steering gear because of my Frankenlift. I think that is total BS. Has anybody else had this problem? How does the lift affect the steering components? I appreciate any comments on this.
Steve

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 30, 2007 6:49 pm

06LTD wrote:

A few days ago the bracket that holds the rack and pinion steering gear housing to the frame broke. The bracket is part of the housing. I just got word from the dealer the warranty will not cover the cost of replacing the steering gear because of my Frankenlift. I think that is total BS. Has anybody else had this problem? How does the lift affect the steering components? I appreciate any comments on this.
Steve

The lift will put more stress on the rack/pinion,just by the fact your probally running bigger(heavier) tires and by changing the angle of the tie-rod ends thus putting more stress on the rack housing.Chysler does not have to warrenty a part that failed due to a aftermarket modification,sorry but that is life and the lift will put alot of extra stress on the rack.

USAFCOP · **Posted:** Thu Aug 30, 2007 6:57 pm

The lift puts the ends at a higher angle. The lift is not the issue the issue is the larger tires creating more resistance on the rack. Mine did not go bad until after my warranty had expired.

here is where I got my rack from:http://www.newmoparparts.com/mopar-parts.htm

I see troy beet me...

06LTD · **Posted:** Thu Aug 30, 2007 9:25 pm

I still don't quite get how significant the lift is. I referred back to an excellent post by JFortier777 (http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29193). It looks like there is neglible difference in the tie rod and CV angles in his before and after pictures. Although it looks like the before is unsprung with the wheels off and the after is with the wheels on solid ground, if that matters.
Even with the tires, it's not like I'm running 35's or anything. I have pretty new 255/75/17 BFG MTs. I can't imagine these minor modifications having that much of an effect on the integrity of the bracket that broke. Tomorrow I am going to talk to the guy who usually works on my cars to see when he can squeeze it in. Thanks for the info.
Steve

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 30, 2007 9:34 pm

06LTD wrote:

I still don't quite get how significant the lift is. I referred back to an excellent post by JFortier777 (http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29193). It looks like there is neglible difference in the tie rod and CV angles in his before and after pictures. Although it looks like the before is unsprung with the wheels off and the after is with the wheels on solid ground, if that matters.
Even with the tires, it's not like I'm running 35's or anything. I have pretty new 255/75/17 BFG MTs. I can't imagine these minor modifications having that much of an effect on the integrity of the bracket that broke. Tomorrow I am going to talk to the guy who usually works on my cars to see when he can squeeze it in. Thanks for the info.
Steve

Well on a IFS any lift is a drastic change to all the stock componets,and the Frankinlift is the tallest lift out there,more then 3" in the front.It will put alot of stress on the LBJ's,UBJ's,a-arm bushings,and the rack and pinion.The biggest thing is the tires your running,255/75R17's is about 32" tires and being BFG MT's they are twice as heavy as the stock tires,even more so if your running steel rims,that alone puts a massive added stress on everything in the front end.Even if you don't offroad it it is still putting more stress on the components.You gotta pay to play and wearing out stuff after lifting is just part of the deal.

jason thompson · **Posted:** Thu Aug 30, 2007 10:01 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

You gotta pay to play and wearing out stuff after lifting is just part of the deal.

some very very true words
Kinda like
"If you aint breaking stuff then you aint wheelin"

myjeepwalks · **Posted:** Fri Aug 31, 2007 1:35 am

06LTD wrote:

I still don't quite get how significant the lift is. I referred back to an excellent post by JFortier777 (http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29193). It looks like there is neglible difference in the tie rod and CV angles in his before and after pictures. Although it looks like the before is unsprung with the wheels off and the after is with the wheels on solid ground, if that matters.
Even with the tires, it's not like I'm running 35's or anything. I have pretty new 255/75/17 BFG MTs. I can't imagine these minor modifications having that much of an effect on the integrity of the bracket that broke. Tomorrow I am going to talk to the guy who usually works on my cars to see when he can squeeze it in. Thanks for the info.
Steve

That's the problem with dealerships these days they try to weisel their way out of warranty. Tell the stealer to prove that the lift broke it. I'd call chrysler and complain. Yes a lift and bigger tires will put more wear and tear on things but i honesty dont think it's enough to break the rack. Unless you wacked something really hard.

RespectMyLibertay · **Posted:** Fri Aug 31, 2007 2:22 am

How did the bracket just break? You could take off your lift and go to a different dealership who'd help you out, but unless you actually did something, probably offroad, to stress it enough to break, then it probably wore out over time due to the different angles of the lift.
I got the original Rancho/OME/Skyjacker/Daystar Frankenlift over a year and half ago and since then I've been slowly replacing OEM components in the front end. IFS seems much more weak than SFA, so replacing some of the questionable stock suspension/steering parts is the only way I feel safe driving my Jeep. Taking your modded Jeep to a dealership is asking to get ripped-off or your warranty denied. When my upper ball joint failed on one of the OEM upper a-arms, taking it to the dealership for repair was the last thing on my mind. Buying what you need and repairing your Jeep yourself, possibly with a friend or two, is going to save you insane amounts of money and the headaches you'll get from trying to get the dealership to co-operate. If the vehicle is lifted, they can try to void the suspension and steering parts of your bumper-to-bumper warranty, and your entire powertrain warranty, especially if you have bigger tires. I've had a dealership service rep tell me that they won't cover 'insert repair' under warranty because lifting a Liberty at all will put undue stress on the driveshafts, front control arms, ball joints, front swaybar, CV shafts and joints, the whole rack and pinion. Truely, it's not so bad that you should expect everything to fail, but expect to replace everything at least once, I say! :roll:

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sat Sep 01, 2007 1:18 am

myjeepwalks wrote:

06LTD wrote:

I still don't quite get how significant the lift is. I referred back to an excellent post by JFortier777 (http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29193). It looks like there is neglible difference in the tie rod and CV angles in his before and after pictures. Although it looks like the before is unsprung with the wheels off and the after is with the wheels on solid ground, if that matters.
Even with the tires, it's not like I'm running 35's or anything. I have pretty new 255/75/17 BFG MTs. I can't imagine these minor modifications having that much of an effect on the integrity of the bracket that broke. Tomorrow I am going to talk to the guy who usually works on my cars to see when he can squeeze it in. Thanks for the info.
Steve

That's the problem with dealerships these days they try to weisel their way out of warranty. Tell the stealer to prove that the lift broke it. I'd call chrysler and complain. Yes a lift and bigger tires will put more wear and tear on things but i honesty dont think it's enough to break the rack. Unless you wacked something really hard.

You all need to work in a dealership(as a mech) for a month,you'll understand better.Just to see half the stupid things poeple want warrented is way out there.Modding the suspension they do have the right to deny the warrenty of all effected components,and that includes the steering,heck just putting different sized tires on they can deny anything with the suspension,steering,and drivetrain since it will cause more stress.You gotta remember those mech's have bills and families to,I'm sure poeple complain about your jobs to when you overcharge or deny this and deny that for free.And warrenty work pays about a 1/4 of what the same job paid out of pocket to the mech's,understandable that they don't want to do it.I didn't want to either working at the dealer.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Sat Sep 01, 2007 9:00 pm

Putting a lift on the Jeep changes the angles of the tie-rods as many have said. With that, when the Jeep is stock the tie-rods push out on the knuckle to turn the wheels. When you have a lift that is as high as the Franken lift, the tie-rods then push down and out to turn the knuckle. This puts more stress on both the tie-rods and the rack. 255/75/17 is a big tire for the stock from suspension, much less the front diff. Thats one main reason that I only run a 245/70/16 tire, to keep down wear and tear on the steering and front suspension. I usually only run those offroad or in the winter too.

The Franken lift backed with a 32x10in tire, I could see how that would cause the rack to wear out quicker but breaking a mount on the rack, Ive never heard of it before.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sat Sep 01, 2007 10:48 pm

Quote:

breaking a mount on the rack, Ive never heard of it before.

It's just like 3/16" of cast aluminum,if that thick at all.

doug · **Posted:** Sun Sep 02, 2007 2:05 am

last friday my p/s went out. the dealer replaced the p/s, rack and pinion, and i had a hole in my cv boot. they didn't tell me what broke, but it was all covered under the warranty. it took five days to fix it, but it was free!

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Sun Sep 02, 2007 9:59 am

doug wrote:

last friday my p/s went out. the dealer replaced the p/s, rack and pinion, and i had a hole in my cv boot. they didn't tell me what broke, but it was all covered under the warranty. it took five days to fix it, but it was free!

I hope you realize just how lucky you are that your dealer took care of you. It is rare these days to not have to put up a fight (or beg) to get stuff covered on a modded vehicle.

myjeepwalks · **Posted:** Sun Sep 02, 2007 2:14 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

myjeepwalks wrote:

06LTD wrote:

I still don't quite get how significant the lift is. I referred back to an excellent post by JFortier777 (http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29193). It looks like there is neglible difference in the tie rod and CV angles in his before and after pictures. Although it looks like the before is unsprung with the wheels off and the after is with the wheels on solid ground, if that matters.
Even with the tires, it's not like I'm running 35's or anything. I have pretty new 255/75/17 BFG MTs. I can't imagine these minor modifications having that much of an effect on the integrity of the bracket that broke. Tomorrow I am going to talk to the guy who usually works on my cars to see when he can squeeze it in. Thanks for the info.
Steve

That's the problem with dealerships these days they try to weisel their way out of warranty. Tell the stealer to prove that the lift broke it. I'd call chrysler and complain. Yes a lift and bigger tires will put more wear and tear on things but i honesty dont think it's enough to break the rack. Unless you wacked something really hard.

You all need to work in a dealership(as a mech) for a month,you'll understand better.Just to see half the stupid things poeple want warrented is way out there.Modding the suspension they do have the right to deny the warrenty of all effected components,and that includes the steering,heck just putting different sized tires on they can deny anything with the suspension,steering,and drivetrain since it will cause more stress.You gotta remember those mech's have bills and families to,I'm sure poeple complain about your jobs to when you overcharge or deny this and deny that for free.And warrenty work pays about a 1/4 of what the same job paid out of pocket to the mech's,understandable that they don't want to do it.I didn't want to either working at the dealer.

I worked at a dealer for 5 years as a technician so i know how they operate. :lol:

The problem was the ford dealer i worked at would warranty just about anything and everything with no questions asked

. In this guys case a broken rack? Just from a lift and tires? Come on now. Either he is not telling the whole story (like hitting something really hard) or it is a defective rack.

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Sun Sep 02, 2007 2:31 pm

The racks are known to wear out the bushings that are in the two mounting points. My 2002 wore out and they replaced it...but a lift and bigger tires along with hard wheeling were to blame...just the facts of life. If you could lower the rack to compensate for the lift some (I think JeepinAl did that) it would definitely last longer and work better.

Fix for Upper and Lower Ball Joints...SAS (Straight Axle Swap)

Fix for Rack & Pinion...Recirculating Ball with SAS

Just the way it is...or keep parts fresh :!:

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun Sep 02, 2007 4:51 pm

Quote:

Fix for Upper and Lower Ball Joints...SAS (Straight Axle Swap)

Fix for Rack & Pinion...Recirculating Ball with SAS

Just the way it is...or keep parts fresh

Good words! You gotta pay to play.

Broken Steering Gear

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