LIFT PUMP AND AUTOMATIC BLEEDER MOD, LONG TERM RESULTS

UFO · **Posted:** Mon Sep 24, 2007 8:00 pm

BlackLibertyCRD wrote:

If adding a lift pump cost $100 per vehicle times 11,000 vehicles equates to $1,100,000. We lose! :evil:

I bet somebody got half of that as a bonus... :twisted:

crawdad-480 · **Joined:** Fri Jan 19, 2007 12:03 pm **Posts:** 47

I installed a lift pump this past weekend. I used a facet posi-flow 60106. It's rated for 32 gph, 4-7 psi, an a min of
12 inches of lift. I'm using this pump as a trial pump to determine if a lift pump will even make a difference in my case. I
mounted my pump in the same location as BlackLibertyCRD. One thing I did find out about the posi-flow after reading
the instructions, the pump is only rated for an ambient of 140 degF. So do not leave this type of pump in the engine
compartment.

I've put a 116 miles on the jeep, since installing the pump. Driveability has definitely improved. The engine starts much better,
runs quieter, and for the most part it got rid of an annoying clatter that I had when accelerating. I still have a very faint clatter on
acceleration, but it does not occur all the time anymore. Reading other threads here regarding the racor filter used across the pond,
I may upgrade my pump to one that can handle 45 gph. Facet makes one, 480532E, with a pressure range of 6-8 psi.

Also, I do not have to bleed the filter head anymore.

Thanks BlackLibertyCRD for the work you put into the lift pump/bleeder mod.

Jeger · **Posted:** Tue Sep 25, 2007 8:14 am

Perfect!

Thanks for guinea piggin' that pump for me crawdad-480

Thats the exact one I was going to try. Except I was going to mount mine down by the fuel tank. I think the Kennedy pump that Mitch is using was rated for 140 degrees also....he has a cooler and his pump is by the tank. I think a fuel cooler might be best for the life of our pumps.... Still I am glad you are trying it without a cooler. Keep us updated on occasion.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Sep 25, 2007 2:10 pm

Today I did what I've know needed done since the day I got my crd new

Same thing I did to a $50 VW jetta with over 300,000 miles on broken odometer on it :oops:

NAPA has the 40106, their 610-1050, for a unfriendly price of $42.99

4 to 7 psi @ 32 gph with 1/8th NPT fittings. I did not add the bleeder section yet though and will machine a fixed orfice adapter later if I need to. This weekend we'll be taking our trailer for a short trip of about 150 miles round trip and I'm hoping it will improve my preformance :lol:

What I noticed so far is it idles smoother, the full throttle delay from a dead stop time has been cut in two, the surging feeling on the interstate is gone, so far, and during normal around town driving it's more responsive. There is no noticable smoke at least in the daytime. These are the same improvements that I saw on my $50 jetta :roll:

Did Chrysler drop the ball big time or is it possible that there is a marginal batch of pumps and I got one :?:

BankNote4X4 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 25, 2007 9:07 pm

I mimmicked RetMil's set up and am seeing similar improvements. With the pump this vehicle finally feels as should have from factory regardless of the ULSD change over. I will say however, when the high pressure pump was pulling vacuum, the system was primed and warmed and the tranny not in hot mode the torque and acceleration seemed better(but that only lasted for a short time after start ups and then only with the above conditions ). I would definitely do this mod again. Consistancy in driving, huge noise reduction, no priming, no more drivetrain jerking feeling like it would kill the high pressure pump in a very short time(in hot weather), all make for a much improved vehicle. It seems to have corrected the release of entrained vapor and impedance of full fuel delivery. Nice!!!!!!!!

RetMil, and the rest- Thank You

gmctd · **Posted:** Wed Sep 26, 2007 12:43 am

Anybody gotta direct side-on pic of the fuel manager head, minus the filter element?

retmil46 · **Posted:** Wed Sep 26, 2007 3:03 am

Never thought I'd say this, but maybe in a way DC did us a favor by being so bloody cheap when they built this beast. :shock:

In a way, they gave us a blank slate (not unlike the space between a beancounter's ears), to where we could take the best ideas and mods from other diesel vehicles - Cummins, Duramax, Powerstroke, TDI, etc - and combine them on ours to make a truly excellent little oil burner.

OK, that's my kind word for DC for the year, now back to your regularly scheduled grump. :lol:

truckbouy2 · **Posted:** Wed Sep 26, 2007 8:20 am

Mr. Retmil I do believe you have hit the mark once again.
I think it has been a fun adventure refining these Jeep experiments.
Sure the classic whiners are ever present.... But the creativity here is quite amazing.
AND in spite of the few flaws (take me out vehicle shopping and point one out to me that DOESN'T have issues...Uh hu) present in these oilers, it is one fine machine. Just look at the price of the few used ones you can find....

Cowcatcher · **Posted:** Wed Sep 26, 2007 10:16 am

truckbouy2 wrote:

Mr. Retmil I do believe you have hit the mark once again.
I think it has been a fun adventure refining these Jeep experiments.
Sure the classic whiners are ever present.... But the creativity here is quite amazing.
AND in spite of the few flaws (take me out vehicle shopping and point one out to me that DOESN'T have issues...Uh hu) present in these oilers, it is one fine machine. Just look at the price of the few used ones you can find....

And take me out and show me a single vehicle on the market that can compare with it's features and capabilities.

truckbouy2 · **Posted:** Wed Sep 26, 2007 10:46 am

AMEN....Brother CowCatcher...AMEN..... :wink:

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2007 12:04 am

I towed a loaded 3000 lb trailer from Delaware to NW Washington this weekend, (three days of hard driving) over 3000 miles. The pump and automatic bleeder mod worked flawlessly. With the ORM and Predator chip I was able to pull the mountain passes with ease. Some with the overdrive off to protect the trans from over shifting and burning up the torque converter.

I had the engine temperature go up to almost 3/4 climbing a mountain pass in Washington. I felt it was normal since I climbed this long grade with OD off and engine at 3,000 RPM at 70 MPH. I seen a rig with double trailer of hay catch the first trailer of hay on fire from its exhaust on this grade. That hay got quickly unloaded on the road to save the rig and trailers. What a smoky mess, look like it was unloaded while the rig was still moving for at least 1/2 mile.

Cowcatcher · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2007 12:53 am

Aha Rygrass!

chrispitude · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2007 6:50 am

I've had my gauge go up to 3/4 while towing up grades as well. I'd really like to know what coolant temperature this corresponds to, and whether I should be concerned if the engine operates at this temperature for sustained periods.

- Chris

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2007 10:51 pm

I felt the condition still within normal range and doing well. This grade on this mountain pass even had signs posted warning about overheating and recommended turning air conditioner off for less load on the cooling system. Even with the load I was towing, the temperature quickly went to normal when I reached the top. This was the only grade I seen raise the temperature of this CRD and knew I was pushing it to it's limits.

Jeger · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2007 5:42 am

How's that check valve holding up?

I am having trouble finding any check valves besides yours that are under $70...was hoping to get a metal one with a Viton seal, but if the one you found is holding up I will go with it.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2007 1:13 pm

The check valve is doing it's job great. I only worry how the clear tube will hold up and keeping a close eye on it. I know I can close the bleeder valve in a pinch. Now that I know it works I looking to replace it with a 3/16 fuel hose but need a fitting off the bleeder valve that fits the hose. I'm thinking long term safety against fuel leak that I don't know would even happen.

uncaged · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2007 8:29 pm

how much pressure does it take to overcome the check valve? That would be the pressure left in the filter head and held against the IP.

Good idea about the speed bleeder. You can find them in the Help! parts section of autopart stores now. Would be interesting to know how much pressure it takes to overcome the speed bleeders.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Fri Oct 26, 2007 12:04 am

uncaged wrote:

how much pressure does it take to overcome the check valve? That would be the pressure left in the filter head and held against the IP.

Good idea about the speed bleeder. You can find them in the Help! parts section of autopart stores now. Would be interesting to know how much pressure it takes to overcome the speed bleeders.

The release pressure is 1 psi more than what the return pressure is at the time. The automatic bleeder is on page one of this thread and looks nothing like as sold at auto parts store.

BiodieselJeep.com · **Posted:** Fri Oct 26, 2007 3:00 pm

Guys, I notice a reference to clear tubes. I have a lot of experience with different tubing and fuels. Overall, if you check it regularly, it doesn't really matter what it is made of, as long as you keep an eye on its behavior and replace it if you get suspicious.

However, for tubing that is not under regular scrutiny, I would warn you away from vinyl, the average clear hosing you find at most home depot like places. Even with "plain" diesel, but more often with additives and biodiesel (even commercial biodiesel) the various alcohols present tend to leach out the elastomers that keep he tube flexible. Alcohols are present in pretty much anything, and winter diesel is often just as tough. In the long term, this makes the tubing stiff and can result in leaks at the seal or even weeping on the line....and if the tube is left there long enough....brittleness and potential cracking. Anyone who has used these tubes with modern gasoline (5-10% ethanol) has seen the fast-track version of what I am talking about.

We do a lot of experiments and, because we are cheap yankees, have a lot of experience with crappy tubing. Viton is the best, but it isn't clear. But if you check this thing a lot (and isn't that the fun?) then you'll be fine.

mccrank123 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 16, 2011 4:33 pm **Posts:** 1

Hi, Did you have to fit a new relay in fuse box I have a UK model and have wired it as shown but relay position is shown as spare?
John.

LIFT PUMP AND AUTOMATIC BLEEDER MOD, LONG TERM RESULTS

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