6" lift is up on jeepinbyal.com

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Oct 09, 2007 6:05 pm

Tokyojoe wrote:

Because the front dif is aluminum or because it is a Dana 30 regardless of being aluminum or cast metal?

It's because the D30A has a longer pinion shaft then a dana30,and there is only a choice of 3.55's,3.73's,and 4.10's untill someone makes lower gears with the longer pinion shaft for the D30A.

Tokyojoe · **Posted:** Tue Oct 09, 2007 8:26 pm

dirtykj wrote:

What's this:

Looks a little fragile.

Those mount the rear control arms to the frame. Look at yours on your KJ to compare thickness and design for strength.

SILVERJEEPKJ · **Posted:** Tue Oct 09, 2007 9:45 pm

i want!!!! :lol:

KJ2005 · **Joined:** Wed Aug 08, 2007 1:05 am **Posts:** 27

Tokyojoe wrote:

dirtykj wrote:

What's this:

Looks a little fragile.

Those mount the rear control arms to the frame. Look at yours on your KJ to compare thickness and design for strength.

This is true but we'll have to see how it holds up. I'm still scratching my head over why you'd have to cut back your CV axles. My opinion is that not only to you want heavy duty axles but you'd want longer axles just as with longer drive shafts, it would help reduce the angle like longer drive shafts. Also I’ve seen lift kits that actually have spacers from where the cv axle meets the differential housing which again is legthening the cv axle not shortening it.

The shorter the axle the higher the angle, so I’m guessing they want you to cut it down because something is going to bind or grind?

Guest · **Posted:** Tue Oct 09, 2007 11:09 pm

Tokyojoe wrote:

KJpilot wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

KJpilot wrote:

Here is a list Marlin E-mailed of what comes with the kit:

§ Front strut kit

§ Al’s A-arms New Gen 4

§ 2” sub frame for under K frame

§ Steering knuckle extension

§ Transfer case cross member shim plates

§ Y link for on top or rear axel

§ Long control arms on rear axel w/ factory sway bar

§ Longer drive shaft

§ Rear shocks and coil springs

§ Steering rod extension

§ Longer brake hoses

§ Removing inner front wheel wells if using 33” tires

§ Re-gearing axels 4:10,1 or 4:56,1

Options

§ Factory rubber bushings or Johnny Joints

§ Front strut adapters to use with other lift kits

§ Adapter plates to use factory Y link

§ Differential Locker for off road use

WOW! A "removal of the wheel wells" comes with the kit?

:lol:

Seriously though.....Wow! New diff gears comes with the kit? 4:10,1 or 4:56,1?

So who has info/experience with 4:56,1 gears?

Please forgive my inaccurate cut & paste skills, I shall aim to do better in the future!

KJ2005 · **Joined:** Wed Aug 08, 2007 1:05 am **Posts:** 27

KJpilot wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

KJpilot wrote:

I'm surprised that it is that inexpensive. It is a complete kit after all. Yeah, maybe somethong can be done with the CV joints, but for crying out loud, EVERYTING else is included & is all bolt-in! That is simply outstanding at $3,600!

I was certain it was going to be more like $5,000.

Don't forget install($$$$) and I'm sure the stock drive shaft will not work(or not live long with those angles and probally will be to short) so a SYE and new rear driveshaft will be in order(more$$$$$).

I capitalized EVERYTHING for a reason! That price includes driveshafts! new 4.10 gears and oodles of other things! Yeah you got to put it in... but most kits do require installation!

Here is a list Marlin E-mailed of what comes with the kit:

§ Front strut kit

§ Al’s A-arms New Gen 4

§ 2” sub frame for under K frame

§ Steering knuckle extension

§ Transfer case cross member shim plates

§ Y link for on top or rear axel

§ Long control arms on rear axel w/ factory sway bar

§ Longer drive shaft

§ Rear shocks and coil springs

§ Steering rod extension

§ Longer brake hoses

§ Removing inner front wheel wells if using 33” tires

§ Re-gearing axels 4:10,1 or 4:56,1

Options

§ Factory rubber bushings or Johnny Joints

§ Front strut adapters to use with other lift kits

§ Adapter plates to use factory Y link

§ Differential Locker for off road use

if all of those parts including drive shaft, gears, andstering rod does come with the kit, it is competitively priced with other 6" kit for other vechicles

RespectMyLibertay · **Posted:** Wed Oct 10, 2007 3:03 am

I think what Marlin may mean by shortening the CV axles inner face is to cut the "into the diff" side, allowing you push the thicker external part of the axle, where the clevis conveniently hits at full droop, closer to the diff and away from the clevis. It should then place the skinniest part of the axle underneath the clevis at full droop, given it much more clearance.
It is very feasible in my head at least, you would just need to make a clean cut and then whatever you cut off is what you lose when you tighten the axle nut, if I understand this correctly...you'd really be changing the angle of the CVs. I know that the clevis hitting the CV boot/axle is a problem I saw with my 2.5" lift and stock upper a-arms. It is probably prone to happen more when you lengthen the strut assembly, since it pushes the clevis ever closer to the CV axles' stable (other than rotating) and thickest part along with it's easy-to-tear boot.
:!:

6" lift is up on jeepinbyal.com

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