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PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 7:27 pm 
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I don't recall the final circuit wires involved but I know there was consideration of trying to find both ends of the coupling at the air box MAF plug. If everything is there I will be keeping my eyes open for a wrecked CRD that I can pull the MAF out of along with chopping the end of the wiring harness.

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'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 7:53 pm 
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Cowcatcher wrote:
I don't recall the final circuit wires involved but I know there was consideration of trying to find both ends of the coupling at the air box MAF plug. If everything is there I will be keeping my eyes open for a wrecked CRD that I can pull the MAF out of along with chopping the end of the wiring harness.


Mr Bill.Barg recently picked up a MAF he might be willing to part with in the name of science :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 9:45 pm 
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I think some said the MAF plug was used on late model mustangs, There may be an extension kit for them?

I just recently changed an engine in my son's 99 Dodge Neon. There were several plugs that were similar to the Crd MAF. I will take a closer lokk on monday to see if any are a match. It would be great to find a match since there are way more Neons in the salvage yards over CRD's.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 11:02 pm 
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Hummm. This may be the wire harness repair kit for the MAF plug. Also the specific circuits each point connects to. And here is a site to find electrical repair kits: http://dto.vftis.com/mopar/main.asp


2006 KJ : LIBERTY

Mopar Package #
68032282AA

SENSOR-MASS AIR FLOW (DIESEL) - 6 WAY

CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1
-
-

2
K811 20BK/OR
MAF SENSOR 5 VOLT SUPPLY

3
F1 20PK/WT
FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN-START)

4
-
-

5
K957 20BR/OR
MAF SENSOR GROUND

6
K157 20BR/OR
MAF SENSOR SIGNAL

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Dave

'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 1:04 pm 
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BillGates must have a software probe in my computer - I keep getting p.m.s.'ey little notes from MS stating -

Microsoft OLE DB Provider for SQL Server error '80040e14'

Incorrect syntax near the keyword 'ORDER'.

/mopar/connreview/reviewconnheader.asp, line 116

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject: 2 late to get in?
PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 10:18 pm 
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Been out of touch for long time due to JOB..... after a couple of limps and a noticable chatter of the AFC valve under heavy acceleration I started looking here again for a resoultion. I have the connectors dangling right now and love the improvement, no tire spin but very noticable improvement in driveability. Would there happen to be any kits available?


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 Post subject: Re: 2 late to get in?
PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 11:04 pm 
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CrayZ wrote:
Been out of touch for long time due to JOB..... after a couple of limps and a noticable chatter of the AFC valve under heavy acceleration I started looking here again for a resoultion. I have the connectors dangling right now and love the improvement, no tire spin but very noticable improvement in driveability. Would there happen to be any kits available?


here ya go better hurry

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=24693

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 12:09 am 
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Sir Sam wrote:
Cowcatcher wrote:
I don't recall the final circuit wires involved but I know there was consideration of trying to find both ends of the coupling at the air box MAF plug. If everything is there I will be keeping my eyes open for a wrecked CRD that I can pull the MAF out of along with chopping the end of the wiring harness.


Mr Bill.Barg recently picked up a MAF he might be willing to part with in the name of science :wink:


Sam,

I got the MAP (jeep terminology) sensor. Not the Manifold MAP (LOST terminology) / Boost / Bosch temp/pressure sensor. The MAP sensor is the one attached to the side of the air box. I did not get the MAF.

Bill

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 1:20 am 
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Bill.Barg wrote:
Sir Sam wrote:
Cowcatcher wrote:
I don't recall the final circuit wires involved but I know there was consideration of trying to find both ends of the coupling at the air box MAF plug. If everything is there I will be keeping my eyes open for a wrecked CRD that I can pull the MAF out of along with chopping the end of the wiring harness.


Mr Bill.Barg recently picked up a MAF he might be willing to part with in the name of science :wink:


Sam,

I got the MAP (jeep terminology) sensor. Not the Manifold MAP (LOST terminology) / Boost / Bosch temp/pressure sensor. The MAP sensor is the one attached to the side of the air box. I did not get the MAF.

Bill


Well terminology aside, that was a joke about your recent boondoggle with the MAP. :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 10:23 am 
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Bill.Barg wrote:
Sam, I got the MAP (jeep terminology) sensor. Not the Manifold MAP (LOST terminology) / Boost / Bosch temp/pressure sensor. The MAP sensor is the one attached to the side of the air box. I did not get the MAF Bill

FYI- this is what the manual says you got:
(an inlet pressure sensor) Note that the Boost Pressure/intake Air Temp Sensor is what we commonly call a MAP sensor. It measures the pressure.. i.e. boost in the manifold.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 11:22 pm 
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Note the location of the Boost solenoid - the lawnmower fuel-filter type Boost solenoid filter is twixt that and the inner fender panel on our '05

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 10:00 am 
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gmctd wrote:
Note the location of the Boost solenoid - the lawnmower fuel-filter type Boost solenoid filter is twixt that and the inner fender panel on our '05

Does anybody know what the Boost Pressure Solendoid does? Does it act like a wastegate for VNT/VVT turbochargers?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 11:05 am 
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Mine likes to buzz loudly sometimes during cold weather idling.

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255/70/16 Big O on Rubis minor trimming required
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Suncoast TC and Transgo Snake oil-41k
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 Post subject: Basic question
PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 4:20 pm 
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I've read that this modification "disables" the EGR circuit. Is that true, or does it just reduce the on time of that circuit?

Thanks for the hard work putting together the design, PC board, and components.

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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
Suncoast, SEGR, lift, InMotion tune, homebrew B100
At 138k, new head & gasket, timing belt, rockers and swearing vocabulary


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 4:42 pm 
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Yes, it does. That is why it was called the ORM kit, for offroad use only.

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2005 CRD Limited
1.5/2.0 Daystar Lift
V6 Airbox
SEGR ala TurboTim
255/70/16 Big O on Rubis minor trimming required
87k+ miles=3 factory TC's, 2 front pumps, 1 turbo, & drivers side wheel bearing/hub
Suncoast TC and Transgo Snake oil-41k
New Front Drive shaft-30K
Stage 2 InMotion Tune-54k, makes me go :)
B&M Tranny Cooler


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 4:57 pm 
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LocoCRD wrote:
Yes, it does. That is why it was called the ORM kit, for offroad use only.


... but technically, it's on when you're in park or neutral, though, so the EGR can function normally while you're idling in a parking lot :)

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2005 Silver CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 5:03 pm 
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Well, the EGR never gets put back in the loop. When in park the PCM is given back control of the FCV so it can close to aid in a smooth shutdown.

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2005 CRD Limited
1.5/2.0 Daystar Lift
V6 Airbox
SEGR ala TurboTim
255/70/16 Big O on Rubis minor trimming required
87k+ miles=3 factory TC's, 2 front pumps, 1 turbo, & drivers side wheel bearing/hub
Suncoast TC and Transgo Snake oil-41k
New Front Drive shaft-30K
Stage 2 InMotion Tune-54k, makes me go :)
B&M Tranny Cooler


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 5:11 pm 
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LocoCRD wrote:
Well, the EGR never gets put back in the loop. When in park the PCM is given back control of the FCV so it can close to aid in a smooth shutdown.
That's the level of detail I was after. So a blocking plate on the EGR circuit is probably not necessary to prevent things from getting clogged up, assuming the FCV is working properly to begin with and stays shut.

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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
Suncoast, SEGR, lift, InMotion tune, homebrew B100
At 138k, new head & gasket, timing belt, rockers and swearing vocabulary


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 5:38 pm 
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greiswig wrote:
LocoCRD wrote:
Well, the EGR never gets put back in the loop. When in park the PCM is given back control of the FCV so it can close to aid in a smooth shutdown.
That's the level of detail I was after. So a blocking plate on the EGR circuit is probably not necessary to prevent things from getting clogged up, assuming the FCV is working properly to begin with and stays shut.


Right, they both are actuated normally on start-up and until you put the tranny into gear, then as loco said, the EGR and FCV are closed and opened wide, respectively. There's also a handy little bypass plug which, aside from the splices, puts the whole thing electrically identical to stock for inspections, etc.

Loco, I must have missed something in the control logic if the EGR isn't powered AFTER putting the transmission back in park.... I didn't think the board was aware of previous state (simply "normal" or "bypass" depending on the P/N trigger wire). You sure about that one? (Tim, confirmation?)

Dan

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2005 Silver CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 6:39 pm 
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Short - ECM uses the Boost Pressure Solenoid to control the turbocharger according to requirements - the filter is in a bi-directional control line which vents to atmosphere, and is used to protect the vacuum pump, which is inside the crankcase.


Long - Boost is made by fuel, not the other way around, as most folks believe - ECM controls fuel depending on engine load requirements - ECM also controls Boost depending on load, along with other environment variables

ECM reads MAP\Temp sensor, Intake Air BAP\Temp sensor, Throttle Position Sensor, Engine Coolant Sensor, Rail Pressure Sensor, RPM and several other inputs to determine required level of Manifold Air Pressure, or Boost
- ECM uses the BPS valve to actuate the variable vane servo on the turbocharger, which configures the nozzle vanes in the gas-turbine motor in order to provide power to drive the compressor, which will then supply the required pressure level

Don't believe it?

Go outside, crank the engine, and note how much Boost the engine makes at idle - ya got fuel, got air, got turbo - where's the Boost?

Takes exhaust energy to drive the gas-turbine motor to drive the air compressor to make Boost - hot gasses from combusted fuel makes exhaust energy - exhaust energy is almost always more than necessary to make required Boost - ECM can vary the nozzle angle to 'regulate' that energy according to demand - the BPS is the electrical to mechanical control link.

BTW - there's not enough energy in idle exhaust gas to compress air = no Boost

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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