So I do my own oil change, as most here do.

At my last oil change, The plug almost fell out when I removed it. I know It was not overtightened the previous time, I am very careful about that.

So researching here a little I see I am NOT the first -- far from it, who have had this issue. After finding this out I refuse to get stuck with the $500 repair bill for this job and will be taking Jeep to small claims court. Its a simple and painless process for those who have never done it.

I will obviously need to have some proof/research to show in court so I have come here, again, for everyones help.

Here is what I need ...

*** I need a reply from anyone who this has happened to in the past with as much info as possible

*** I need to know, from the experts around here, why this is happening sooooo much? Ideas suggestions etc ...

I will obviously keep everyone up to date on this issue since I may be the "guinea pig" for others here to get $$$ back on their repairs. I will also post some pics of the new and oil pan with its "redesigns" as soon as I get them.

Thx in advance for your help ...

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Omi
_____________________

_-o||||||||o-_
()_)¯¯¯¯()_)

http://www.miamitj.com

Bluntly - it's a cast-aluminum oil pan, hard and brittle - heavy-handed Americans are accustomed to the more forgiving steel pan with a thick steel nut spot-welded into the bung hole - impact wrenches and air wrenches not allowed on the steel pans, which of course is promptly ignored at the oil-change joints - the aluminum pans require hand-operated hand-wrench, only, thread-start the plug with fingers, only

Easy repair =

steel thread-serts - tap the hole, insert\loc-tite the steel threads, and yer good to go

tap for next size steel pipe\conduit bushing, loc-tite it in, use plug

'Course, none of this is gonna help your cause, but you prolly weren't around when GM released the first all-aluminum V8 engines - talk about yer stripped bolt-holes.

And, there will always be cross-threaded bungs in the steel oil pans - but, the threads seldom fall out.

Good luck with your cause

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

Very helpful -- thank you -- [/sarcasm]

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Omi
_____________________

_-o||||||||o-_
()_)¯¯¯¯()_)

http://www.miamitj.com

So you weren't serious about this part of your request? He just told you why it happens and how to fix it cheaply. Or you just eager for your day in court?

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2006 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD

So, what exactly is your claim? You've stated that you do your own oil changes. There are lots of folks that have had threads stripped when their local shops overtorqued them. Are you saying that you followed the torque settings to the letter and still stripped it? If so, then I think a calibration reciept for your torque wrench and the reciepts for all your parts when you did the change yourself would be a good thing to have. If you're saying that it's just a bad design and just a little bit too much muscle kills it, then I don't know how much small claims will be swayed (unless you're a professional engineer with metalurgy experience).

Good luck, though, an oil pan's a terrible thing to waste!

Dan

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2005 Silver CRD Limited
245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids

I did my first oil change at 500 miles and thought that the drain plug was welded on.

I called the dealership to verify right hand threads as it was not moving with the application of considerable torque. I used a half inch breaker bar to remove the plug initially. Since then I have installed the adaptor made by

http://lubricationspecialist.com/front/index.aspx

With a fumoto valve it has been a non issue.

My thoughts are the threads were damaged in production due to over tightening, dissimilar metals. However I mitigated the potential problem by installing aftermarket parts.

You could get it fixed properly and seek reimbursement from the dealership, if that fails then have your day in court.

There is data to support an iron alloy bolt wears a cast aluminum fastener.

(edit) sorry after re-reading your post new pan already installed. Disregard some of the above.
Do Right…Fear Nothing

Sorry, "dissimilar metals" isn't an issue, The drain bolt is cadium Plated for corrosion resistance.

Most of the time when you take the drain bolt out, If you forget to put the small copper seal back on the drain bolt, You will damage the first couple of threads in the oil pan. This is due to the bolt seating in too far and smashing the threads. Then when you crank the bolt back out the bad threads come out with it. BTW the bolt will seal enought with out the copper seal that you won't have a oil leak.

FYI

_________________
Curtis
Lost # 3914
2006 CRD Limited
Sp Diesel Module
Samco Boost Hoses
K&N Performance Air Filter
Straight Pipe (No muffler)
SEGR
Mopar Skids
Cummins In Tank Lift Pump
245/70R 16 Wild Country AT's

When things break, fix them.


Believe me you will be a much happier person the day you take ownership of your issues.

_________________
2005 CRD Limited, Black 205k Miles (Timing Belt Changed at 100k and 200k), GDE Eco-Tune, Carter in-tank lift pump
2005 CRD Sport, Black - Ingested Valve at 170k miles R.I.P.

What fatweasel said.

_________________
2006 Black Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
K&N, Samco Hoses, Michelin 245/70-16 LTX A/T2, Fumoto F-102, V-Force Muffler, Mopar, Hitch, Trailer Wiring, Skid Plates, Slush Mats, Rear Shelf, Predator Stage 1, Transgo, ORM & CodeReader, Facet 40109 Pump
"IT'S A DIESEL THING, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND"
Certified Services Auto & Truck Repair

I am sure you have seen my posts:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... highlight=

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... highlight=

Good luck with it, I had absolutely no luck dealing with DC even threatening lawyers. I will be happy to supply you any further info you need.

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2005 Liberty CRD, 245/75R16, OME CRD Springs front, OME HD rear

Sorry for the misuse of the term "dissimilar metals" what I was attempting to say is the yield strength of threads on the iron alloy bolt are greater than the threads on the cast aluminum pan.

“But the real key is that cadmium is not selected for corrosion resistance so much as lubricity (lack of stick-slip for critical torquing fasteners) and lack of bulky and gummy corrosion products that can jam a mechanism.” Posted on another site. fyi

That's dry assembly - the crankcase oil pan drain\plug threads have an excess of lubricant on them, in pretty much most cases, not being npt - takes a tad bit more care when torqueing them down.....................

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

I agree with some of the above posts. While you are more than welcome to take this to small claims court, the fact that YOU were the one who stripped this oil pan causes a whole heap of trouble for you. You have a big list of things going against you:

1) I am guessing that you are not a certified mechanic. From the court's perspective, this means you do not have the know-how to properly work on your vehicle. (it's ridiculous I know....but it's how they view it)

2) I am guessing you do not have the calibration sheets for the torque wrench used. (Have you sent it to be re-calibrated as they recommend every X # of years or after any major impact to the tool?)

3) DC is a big company and others in their shoes would ignore any threats of legal action until summoned. They then will push the matter to litigation rather than small claims. Your legal fees will far outweigh the amount you will receive for the oil pan if you were to win.... they know this and that is what they will do.

4) DC can always present the argument: "...we have X # of Jeep liberty's in current operation with X # of oil changes being done on these vehicles annually without incident by our certified mechanics."

I am sorry to say but I don't think this will be going anywhere for you. I do, however, think that it is your absolute right to pursue this as far as you wish. Do keep us updated on your progress.

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Former CRD owner... now I just sit around and stare at the wall.

About small claims court, I recommend that you check the laws in your state. I found out just in time for a case I was pursuing.
Here in Arizona, either party can move it to civil court even though it was filed as a small claims action! This now means lawyers and you will pay attorney fees plus court costs if you lose. (The other side gets to charge what ever they want when this happens).

I'm just saying check first.

(As for me, I would do what my father did on his old truck. He rethreaded the hole to the next bigger size, then put in a 90 degree elbow, piece of hose, then just put a plug on the end of the hose and lifted it up higher than the side of the engine. To change oil, just remove the plug and lower the hose into the pan. No mess, no fuss, just done in a couple of minutes).

Nice. Makes it easy to take a sample for analysis as well.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---