SEGR/ORM Kit Builder's Thread

UFO · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2007 11:59 pm

I have started to ship soldered kits. I finally got my wire shipment from Digikey yesterday, and I sent two kits out today. Please bear with me as I am a one man band who gets time after the family is asleep.

As they start to trickle out, those who get them please inspect them and give me feedback. If I've made any mistakes I will fix them, and if they get caught in time, I may be able to keep them from propagating to other kits. But to re-assure you, I am confident in my soldering and crimping abilities, and I've not caught any mistakes myself (yet).

And thanks to LocoCRD, you are doing a fantastic job shipping me these kits. It's very easy to keep the details straight, and I appreciate the pre-addressed mailers and included hardware needed to build. I have completed my own kit, heatsink grease under the resistor and everything, but I may not get to install it in the Jeep for a few weeks.

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2007 12:16 am

Possibly - if you can lift one end of it out of circuit - touch the soldering iron to the pad, let the solder melt, then pull the lead out with needle-nose pliers, or a fingernail file tip - then recheck it - should read ~550 one direction, infinity in the other, as indicated by the "1"

No prob, and no embarrassment required, either - I've only been doing this 55years - some of it's bound to have stuck, right?

greiswig · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2007 1:02 am

gmctd wrote:

Possibly - if you can lift one end of it out of circuit - touch the soldering iron to the pad, let the solder melt, then pull the lead out with needle-nose pliers, or a fingernail file tip - then recheck it - should read ~550 one direction, infinity in the other, as indicated by the "1"

Nuts...okay, doing that the diode checks as good. One direction is open, and the other reads .535 VDC. Checking across the caps, I get a steadily increasing resistance just as I would expect.

The one thing I haven't done is gone over the pads on the component side and soldered there, in addition to the non-component side. I've assumed that these were all good through-holes. But other than that, I guess I'm still wondering if I've got one or two bad chips. Like I said, I'm glad I used sockets...

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2007 1:24 am

They're plated-thru - I s'pect a solder bridge that looks like a valid connection

nescosmo · **Joined:** Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:17 pm **Posts:** 202

greiswig wrote:

gmctd wrote:

Possibly - if you can lift one end of it out of circuit - touch the soldering iron to the pad, let the solder melt, then pull the lead out with needle-nose pliers, or a fingernail file tip - then recheck it - should read ~550 one direction, infinity in the other, as indicated by the "1"

Nuts...okay, doing that the diode checks as good. One direction is open, and the other reads .535 VDC. Checking across the caps, I get a steadily increasing resistance just as I would expect.

The one thing I haven't done is gone over the pads on the component side and soldered there, in addition to the non-component side. I've assumed that these were all good through-holes. But other than that, I guess I'm still wondering if I've got one or two bad chips. Like I said, I'm glad I used sockets...

Go back and check all of your resistors and check your soldering with a mag glass, if you see that all of the component are ok go and assemble it and do not check it if it work the engine light will stay off after you cleared it.

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2007 12:06 pm

Here's an alternate test:

Disconnect the 10ohm 25w resistor, leave it disconnected for the test.

Connect +12v power and ground to pin 3+ and pin 6-
Do not disconnect B4 end of testing, or prior to successful passing of smoke-emission test, whichever comes first
Readings depend on nominal applied power - my 12v is +13.67v, normal when alt is charging, and quite safe for your SEGR.

Referenced to ground -
pin 1 = 0v
pin 2 = 0v
Pin 3 - power
pin 4 = ~0.6v
Pin 5 - go fish
Pin 6 - ground
pin 7 = +12v nom - whatever your applied power is
pin 8 = 0v
pin 9 = +12v nom

Ground pin 9 and the relay will click
Pin 8 will then read applied power

Apply +12v to pin 1 and leave it connected - Pin 2 should read +4.64v

Ground pin 4 - pin 2 should read +3.15v

Move that Ground to pin 7 - pin 2 should read +6.22v

If circuit responds to that, it should be good to go.............................

greiswig · **Posted:** Fri Oct 26, 2007 1:39 am

gmctd wrote:

Apply +12v to pin 1 and leave it connected - Pin 2 should read +4.64v

Ground pin 4 - pin 2 should read +3.15v

Move that Ground to pin 7 - pin 2 should read +6.22v

If circuit responds to that, it should be good to go.............................

Everything passed the steps up until these last points. 0v on Pin 2 on all of these steps. Is there an easy way to test the chips themselves?

UFO · **Posted:** Fri Oct 26, 2007 2:21 am

greiswig wrote:

gmctd wrote:

Apply +12v to pin 1 and leave it connected - Pin 2 should read +4.64v

Ground pin 4 - pin 2 should read +3.15v

Move that Ground to pin 7 - pin 2 should read +6.22v

If circuit responds to that, it should be good to go.............................

Everything passed the steps up until these last points. 0v on Pin 2 on all of these steps. Is there an easy way to test the chips themselves?

Test for power and ground first, then you can measure voltage on the input and output pins of each amp or comparator. The schematic shows the right pin numbers. For the LM339 (comparators), if the voltage on the (+) input is higher than the voltage on the (-) input, the output pin must have a voltage present. If not, the output should be close to 0 volts. Make sure your black probe is connected to the ground on the chip, and measure the pin voltage with the red probe. For the LM324 (amplifiers), the input pin voltages should be equal to each other.

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Oct 26, 2007 10:50 am

Yes - with 13.7v power applied at Pin3+ and Pin6-

0v on Pin1, U1 should have 0v on -2 and -3, making -1 output 0v, making Pin2 0v

Apply +13.7v to Pin1, U1 should have 13.7v on -3, 6.48 on -2, making -1 output 12.4v

This will be divided by R5-6 to put 4.6v on U1-5, making -7 4.6v, giving Pin2 4.6v

....................................................................
With 12.6v power at Pin3+ and Pin6-

Apply +12.6v to Pin1, U1-13 = 12.6v, 5.6v on -2, and 11.3v on -1

Divided by R5-6 puts 4.2v on U1-5, making -7 and Pin2 4.2v

.....................................................................
With 12v power at Pin3+ and Pin6-

Apply 12v to Pin1, U1-13 = 12v, 5.3v on -2, and 10.7v on -1

Divided by R5-6 puts 4v on U1-5, making -7 and Pin2 4v

longrange2 · **Posted:** Fri Oct 26, 2007 6:11 pm

I just got an SEGR kit from a LOST member that did not need it anymore. Anyone in Colorado that would help me get it together and installed? Looking forward to giving it a try. Thanks, Ken

gmctd · **Posted:** Sat Oct 27, 2007 1:43 pm

Sorry, Ken, not in a position to help you there, but George: those levels are for those with only a single power source - if you have two power supply's I can give you specific voltages at originally suggested input levels....................

Or, are you out and away with it, having increased-power fun?

Anomious · **Posted:** Sat Oct 27, 2007 2:14 pm

You say that you used sockets for the chips. Not being disrespectful, check that none of the chip leads folded under and missed the socket holes. It has happened to me!

Larry K.

stan · **Posted:** Sun Oct 28, 2007 9:29 pm

dear dennis(lococrd) i am after one of these kits . can you please advise the cost and how i can get one . your australian brother stan

LocoCRD · **Posted:** Sun Oct 28, 2007 10:20 pm

Check your PM box Stan.

UFO · **Posted:** Mon Oct 29, 2007 2:38 am

longrange2 wrote:

I just got an SEGR kit from a LOST member that did not need it anymore. Anyone in Colorado that would help me get it together and installed? Looking forward to giving it a try. Thanks, Ken

I'm in Denver. Let me know how I can help.

longrange2 · **Posted:** Mon Oct 29, 2007 11:14 pm

sent you a PM, thanks, Ken

greiswig · **Posted:** Tue Nov 06, 2007 10:17 am

Anomious wrote:

You say that you used sockets for the chips. Not being disrespectful, check that none of the chip leads folded under and missed the socket holes. It has happened to me!

Larry K.

First thing I checked...and it should have been dealt with anyway when I started swapping out chips thinking they were zapped. Anyway, I haven't had a chance to deal with it again for awhile because of business travel. I'll check back in once I've gone over all the solder joints and such. Thanks again, all.

UFO · **Posted:** Sun Nov 11, 2007 6:27 pm

Can anyone post or link some pictures of where and how the main harness is spliced to install the SEGR?

dgeist · **Posted:** Sun Nov 11, 2007 7:02 pm

UFO wrote:

Can anyone post or link some pictures of where and how the main harness is spliced to install the SEGR?

http://picasaweb.google.com/Turbo4tim/Ckt
n'joy.

UFO · **Posted:** Sun Nov 11, 2007 7:41 pm

dgeist wrote:

UFO wrote:

Can anyone post or link some pictures of where and how the main harness is spliced to install the SEGR?

http://picasaweb.google.com/Turbo4tim/Ckt
n'joy.

Thanks for that, I knew I'd seen it somewhere...

Question: Is there two spots to splice? IIRC, the connector numbers on the colored SEGR diagram give pin numbers, is that for the ECM connector or the TCM?

SEGR/ORM Kit Builder's Thread

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