pinch welds

rt_power · **Posted:** Sun Nov 11, 2007 5:18 pm

i am currnetly in the process of geting 245/75/16 grabber AT tires for my lifted 03 kj. i have been reading on how to pound down the pinch welds ect but was just wondering if there has to be any more mods to the well to keep the tire from rubbing ?? is there any mods that have to be done to the rear wheel wells??

thanks

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Sun Nov 11, 2007 5:50 pm

rt_power wrote:

i am currnetly in the process of geting 245/75/16 grabber AT tires for my lifted 03 kj. i have been reading on how to pound down the pinch welds ect but was just wondering if there has to be any more mods to the well to keep the tire from rubbing ?? is there any mods that have to be done to the rear wheel wells??

thanks

On stock rear wheels, the inside top of the tire might rub the inside of the wheelwell but only when fully stuffed and not usually a problem. In front you might have to trim some of the fog light door plastic where it might rub and it will probably rub on the sway bar a little at full lock w/ stock wheels.

Pote · **Posted:** Sun Nov 11, 2007 6:18 pm

what wheels and backspace are you using??

jason thompson · **Posted:** Sun Nov 11, 2007 6:25 pm

rt_power wrote:

i am currnetly in the process of geting 245/75/16 grabber AT tires for my lifted 03 kj. i have been reading on how to pound down the pinch welds ect but was just wondering if there has to be any more mods to the well to keep the tire from rubbing ?? is there any mods that have to be done to the rear wheel wells??

thanks

I run 245/75 MTR's on OE wheels
you will need to pound the pinch
move/cut the fog lamp door area
cut a small bit off of the lower air dam
I get a very very slight rub at full lock in reverse ,only rubbing on plastic so it is OK
I also get some good rub on the plastic liners out back at VERY full stuff
the rub out back will stop when I add 1" of bump stop spacing

Landy · **Posted:** Mon Nov 12, 2007 1:29 am

I used this cold galvanizing stuff before I pounder them over:

And a chunk of an old conveyor belt from work for a patch pop riveted on with black Vulkem calk behind it:

2006 KJ · **Posted:** Mon Nov 12, 2007 1:58 am

i cut out a side and slit the top of the box they have covering it from the factory.. heated and pushed it over. used a plastic welder (a heated screwdriver will work too) to seal the plastic back together then put 2 screws in to make sure it stayed... his is of course after rust proofing the pinch weld with undercoat and then black paint...

and the front i just cut out plastic until it stopped rubbing..

this is to get 265/75/16's to stop rubbing.. i'm sure if you do this your 245's wont touch anything in the front.. i had no problems in the rear. you wont have to do this.. but i had to get wheel spacers to avoid sway bar rubbing with the 265's

rt_power · **Posted:** Mon Nov 12, 2007 7:55 am

im going to be running moab rims with no back space. pounding down the weld doesent sound to hard to do. but fill me in on moving/cuting the fog lamp door area??? from what i understand its done by heating it up with a heat gun and just pushing the fender in?? will i have to cut the the lower air dam like in the pic?? im very new to this jeep thing, i love the look of a 245/75 but if it bcomes a lot of work for a look i may just consider a 245/70 just to save the jeep from a hack job.

thanks all. i have only been on this site a short while and already have learned so much

Landy · **Posted:** Mon Nov 12, 2007 1:13 pm

Verbaige: Pound the pinch weld "over" not pound it in or down.

Just my .02 worth.

daspes · **Posted:** Mon Nov 12, 2007 2:04 pm

I'm Running 245/75 MT/R's on Moab's. Tire s nowhere close to the pinch weld, I only rub the sway bar at full lock, and I had to trim the airdam (rubbing when in reverse).

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Fri Mar 22, 2013 7:45 pm

Bump for those who may benefit from this thread.

pinch welds

Who is online