I'm getting ready to install my super skid, the instructions say to remove the nutzerts and drill all the way through the cross members so you can use the carriage bolts. How do you get them out? The nutzerts seem pretty well anchored, not going to come out easily.

The SS1 is much heavier than the stock skid so I'm leaning toward drilling all the way through for the extra strength, but want to see if anyone just used the stock mounting points and hardware.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

you just drill through them.. Thats what they did for me at All J's

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2016 JKU RUBICON

other mods coming soon...

That easy? Ok thanks

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

Some examples

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2016 JKU RUBICON

other mods coming soon...

Huhm, never thought about taking the cross member off. good idea. ended up laying under the jeep and trying to fit the drill under and then push it up. probabley explains why it's always a pain to get the bolt straight through. I also put carriage bolts on the front of the SSI. Be careful not to hit the diff though.

Thanks for the tips, Finally got it installed. It was quite a production.
First off, I found it very handy to use a rolling floor jack, just balanced the skid on it and jacked it in place. Made postioning it very easy.
That was the only easy part,

I drilled the nutzerts out for the xfer case skid then realized that those didn't need to be drilled out. No biggie, used some carriage bolts instead.
Drilled out the nutzerts on the cross brace that are used for the rear of the tranny skid, then realized that the holes on the SS1 didn't match up. Drilled a suitable hole in the SS1 for the drivers side and file'd out the connecting metal to match the other holes. Finnally spent a bunch of time trying to make the front drivers side mounting hole to work (the one on the angled part of the cross member). In the end, I created a new hole in the SS1 to match the driver side nutzert location.

I didn't drill out the nutzerts on the front cross member, but am thinking seriously about replacing the nutzerts with carriage bolts.

Signcutter21, Did you have any issue getting to the nuts to tighten them?

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

it's a bit tight in there, especially on the front crossmember. I used a wratching wrench as a socket wouldn't fit and a conventional wrench was taking FOREVER. Rear is pretty easy to get too, the front requires some finaggling. Make sure to drill the correct angles to make the fitment much easier.