suckin dust! defective airbox?

o8k · **Posted:** Thu Nov 22, 2007 10:35 pm

went to clean my airbox and noticed a divit in the rubber hose going from the turbo to the airbox, right over the O-clamp where it connects to the air box. Needless to say my engine's been suckin good ole Dusty air for who knows how long....

under further inspection it seems that some cobination of events has taken place

1) clamp was clamped too tight by the last knuckle head who took it apart and caused the airbox tube to collapse
2) arizona heat warped this thin piece of plastic.
3) some combination of 1 and 2

place of collapse

my quick fix

hatchetman · **Posted:** Fri Nov 23, 2007 12:18 pm

You could measure the inside diameter and try to find a piece of pvc that has that has an outside diameter to reshape or reenforced the damaged area. :evil:

retmil46 · **Posted:** Fri Nov 23, 2007 1:02 pm

Hmmm, you sig says that yours burns Amsoil. What kind and at what rate? When I tried Amsoil 15W40 about a year ago, it went thru a 1/2 quart in 3K miles, where previously with Rotella 5W40 it hadn't used any.

A new airbox lid, MINUS the MAF sensor, is about $40 from what I remember. $150 if they order it WITH the MAF sensor installed. One dealership tried telling me I needed a new lid because I had installed an air restriction indicator, claimed that had screwed up the MAF, and would cost me $150 out of pocket for a new lid with MAF. I promptly left the premises. I checked at another dealership, MAF was fine, and just for the heck of it had them check the price of JUST the plastic lid - $40.

Agreed, you could try some thin wall PVC or copper pipe to reinforce the plastic tube. The Behr radiators at work have sections of copper tube glued inside the hose connections to reinforce them - we're talking 18 wheeler radiators.

Pote · **Posted:** Fri Nov 23, 2007 1:16 pm

from the look of the agressive crease there, I'd say that someone's screwdriver slipped past the clamp and entered the gap where they connect, creating that divit....its not a soft bend inward like would be casued by overtightening...looks like an impact on that metal with a flathead screwdriver. i am with you...the "knucklehead" who did some work last time.

0311_DoC · **Posted:** Fri Nov 23, 2007 2:13 pm

Pote wrote:

from the look of the agressive crease there, I'd say that someone's screwdriver slipped past the clamp and entered the gap where they connect, creating that divit....its not a soft bend inward like would be casued by overtightening...looks like an impact on that metal with a flathead screwdriver. i am with you...the "knucklehead" who did some work last time.

well I was doing some cleaning and re arranging under my hood this morning and mine looked exactly like his did. I did the same thing with the bic to melt and reshape. I am the original owner and as far as I know the dealer or anybody hasn't unscrewed the clamp accept me this morning ????

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Nov 23, 2007 2:34 pm

As retmil suggested, but use a section of exhaust pipe, available at yer friendly muffler twist'em and bend'em emporium - scuff the i.d. of the airbox duct and the pipe o.d. with 80grit sandpaper, clean the dust, insert the pipe section using black RTV to bond the interface - you want to reinforce that outlet duct without significantly reducing the i.d. - a section of stainless steel e.p. would be even better, as the wall dimension is usually not as thick

This, because not everyone will have access to and\or sure mastery of that NASA space technology reforming tool shown in the pic..................

Pote · **Posted:** Fri Nov 23, 2007 3:03 pm

gmctd wrote:

This, because not everyone will have access to and\or sure mastery of that NASA space technology reforming tool shown in the pic..................

i like how he was able to "weld" his Mr. Coffee maker right onto the airbox....those bics work wonders!!!!! :shock:

No need to stop off at Starbucks on the way to work in the morning. :roll:

palla · **Posted:** Fri Nov 23, 2007 8:28 pm

Well that is very interesting, mine also looked exactly the same. I had a CEL & put it into Jeep to investigate, they pulled the top airbox & saw the divit just like yours & promply ordered a replacement. Im wondering if this is a manufacturing problem. My Jeep is still under warranty they put back my old sensors so just the lid was replaced.

Kniggit · **Posted:** Fri Nov 23, 2007 9:25 pm

I'll have to check the wife's Heep, but about a month ago I was changing the Air Filter in the Work truck and apparently some one had done something to it also. Plastic elbow was crushed by over tightening the clamp on the filter. (Someone had previously installed a K & N)

K

blake1827 · **Posted:** Sun Nov 25, 2007 5:46 pm

You might want to have an oil analysis done to double check and see if any significant silicon numbers if you're worried about damage.

o8k · **Posted:** Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:13 pm

retmil46 wrote:

Hmmm, you sig says that yours burns Amsoil. What kind and at what rate? When I tried Amsoil 15W40 about a year ago, it went thru a 1/2 quart in 3K miles, where previously with Rotella 5W40 it hadn't used any.

A new airbox lid, MINUS the MAF sensor, is about $40 from what I remember. $150 if they order it WITH the MAF sensor installed. One dealership tried telling me I needed a new lid because I had installed an air restriction indicator, claimed that had screwed up the MAF, and would cost me $150 out of pocket for a new lid with MAF. I promptly left the premises. I checked at another dealership, MAF was fine, and just for the heck of it had them check the price of JUST the plastic lid - $40.

Agreed, you could try some thin wall PVC or copper pipe to reinforce the plastic tube. The Behr radiators at work have sections of copper tube glued inside the hose connections to reinforce them - we're talking 18 wheeler radiators.

Burned about 4 quarts in 10K miles. i have an 8 quart sump.
the Elf im running now hasnt burned a drop...

o8k · **Posted:** Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:14 pm

Pote wrote:

gmctd wrote:

This, because not everyone will have access to and\or sure mastery of that NASA space technology reforming tool shown in the pic..................

i like how he was able to "weld" his Mr. Coffee maker right onto the airbox....those bics work wonders!!!!! :shock:

No need to stop off at Starbucks on the way to work in the morning. :roll:

Dood i dig my coffee in the morning... breakfast blend, sumatra, itallian, and espresso....

o8k · **Posted:** Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:16 pm

blake1827 wrote:

You might want to have an oil analysis done to double check and see if any significant silicon numbers if you're worried about damage.

a post from the other page...
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... 2&start=60

Amsoil 5w30 w/ Bypass filter
Miles on unit-317105
Miles on oil- 12033
Added- 4

Aluminum-49
Chromium-1
Iron-39
Copper-6
Lead-1
Tin-0
Moly-2
Nickel-0
Maganese-10
Silver-0
Titanium-0
Potassium-0
Boron-4
Silicon-24
Sodium-0
Calcium-3073
Magnesium-10
Phosphorus-1093
Zinc-1190
Barium-0

SUS Viscosity@100C- 12.82
Fuel Dilution%=0
Antifreeze=0%
Water=0%
Soot=1.67
Oxidation=10
Nitration=18

I was hoping to see more reports on SOOT to see how my Bypass is or isnt helping.....

gmctd · **Posted:** Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:27 pm

A 'nuther possible method of damage involves air filter replacement technique(?) - that thin plastic will tend to deform if the lid is merely man-handled off the airbox base for the switcheroo, rather than taking time to loosen the duct-hose clamp B4 wrenching it out of position

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:56 pm

WOW! After reading this I had to go check mine, whew and found it OK

suckin dust! defective airbox?

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