SEGR/ORM Kit Builder's Thread

Threeweight · **Joined:** Mon May 14, 2007 5:57 pm **Posts:** 679

Curious how warm other's SEGR box is getting? 1/2 drive, mix of 55 mpg + highway and 20-35 mph stop and go in the city, get home, and the box is not warm at all.

I mounted my resistor with heatsink compound between it and the aluminum of the box.

gmctd · **Posted:** Wed Nov 28, 2007 2:29 pm

FYI - the only time it will really heat up is during heavy EGR application, when there will be max current flow thru the resistor - most of the time there is no EGR, or little EGR - box temperature is, then, direct reflection of your real impact on the ecology, as it were

Current local Winter ambients should be taken into account

0311_DoC · **Posted:** Wed Nov 28, 2007 11:11 pm

gmctd wrote:

Well - you're not supposed to be up this late on a weekday :shock:

, and the pic url suddenly went into maintenance mode, so no pics - I'm shutdown till they're finished

- I was hoping to have the initial post pic'ed and edited for content B4 everyone got up, later this a.m. :oops:

But, yeah - it pics most everything but the actual cut\crimp\solder\heatshrink operation, and that's simple wiring technique

so is the pic site still on maintenance mode :wink:

gmctd · **Posted:** Wed Nov 28, 2007 11:52 pm

Prolly not, but I'll wait till the wee hours of the morning so I can get all the pasting and editing done - takes forever - wish I wasn't so PC-illiterate.................

Ok, here's the pics, for whatever nefarious purposes you guys got in mind>>>>>>>>>>

Here's C1 and C2 in proper position, latches closed

Same, latches open - push down on C1, remove, then pull up on C2

Using a small screwdriver to release the cover, two latches on C1, also on C2

And, released

C2-58pin and C1-96pin, face-on

C1-68 AFC, Brn\Gry - SEGR 7 and 8

C1-85 MAF, DkBlu\Grn - SEGR 1 and 2

C1-90 EGR, DkBlu\Vio - SEGR 4 and 5

C2-1 +12v, DkBrn\Vio - SEGR 3

C2-2 Ground, Blk\DkGrn - SEGR 6

C2-17 T41, Yel\DkBlu - SEGR 9

Spliced - crimped, soldered, shrunk, good to go

When popping the covers back on, make sure the latch is fully extended and handle is at full travel - C1...............

And C2

SEGR with factory wiring

Interestingly enuff, here is C1-11 Torque Management Request pin - hmmmm......what's gmctd up to, now, eh?

Equally as interesting, 8.5psi @ 55degF

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2007 6:33 am

A sealed rubber grommet thru the firewall is located just behind the fuel manager head, on the engine side - the SEGR harness may be fed thru that grommet to locate the module in the cabin, if so desired - see Bill Barq's post, somewhere above ^
http://picasaweb.google.com/bill.barg/J ... ingProject

The splicing is easiest in the plastic harness tray on the firewall, but you'll still have to pull the ECM connectors to determine the correct wiring, as there are several of each color in that big harness

Unlatch and remove C1 - push the latch handle down, then pull the connector out, up and back to clear C2
Unlatch and remove C2 - pull the latch handle up, then pull the connector out and up from back of ECM
Carefully pull C1\C2 harness up and out to full extension from harness tray on firewall, clearing other wiring harnesses.

Pull the main harness tray off the firewall far as the brake booster, pop the cover off the tray using a small screwdriver on the latches
Un-tape and un-bundle the wires from the harness loom so you can separate and pull-trace the required wiring for splicing

Locate the pins in the connectors, identifiable by the wire color
The pin numbers are visible on each connector face

C1 is four columns of 24pins, counting top downward - 1-24, 25-48, 49-72, 73-96

C2 has 6 power pins across the top, 1-2, 3-4, 5-6
And four columns of 13pins counting top downward from the power pins - 7-19, 20-32, 33-45, 46-58

The male pins in the kit are for the box-mounted connector shell
The female pins are for the cable connector shell

Crimp is good - solder 'em if ya got 'em

The SEGR connectors are labled 1-2-3 in the top row, 4-5-6 in the second row, and 7-8-9 in the bottom row
Connector pin #'s correspond to termination points on the pcb:

Male box connector wiring from pcb
1=White - 1
2=Wh\Red str - 2
3=Red - 3
4=Blue - 4
5=empty, not used
6=Black - 6
7=Yellow - 7
8=Yel\Blk str - 8
9=Violet - 9

Female harness connector wiring

Cut the DkBlu\Grn MAF wire in two
1=Wh wire to Maf DkBlu\Grn
2=Wh\Red stripe to ECM MAF DkBlu\Grn

3=Red to C2-1 DkBrn\Vio +12v

Cut the DkBlu\Vio EGR wire in two
4=Blue to C1-90 ECM EGR DkBlu\Vio
5=Blu\Blk str to EGR solenoid DkBlu\Vio - used only with optional test jumper plug

6=Black to C2-2 Grnd Blk\DkGrn

Cut the Brn\Gry AFC wire in two
7=Yellow to ECM AFC Brn\Gry
8=Yel\Blk str to AFC valve Brn\Gry

9=Violet to C2-17 T41 Yel\DkBlu

Do 3,6,9 to C2 wiring first, as they are simple taps - the other 6 are cut and splice between C1 and the affected device

For 3,6,9, I carefully pushed a sharp awl thru the harness wire, tinned the bare SEGR wire, inserted it into the hole, soldered the joint and sealed it with black RTV, using a piece of tape for the curing mold.

The cut and splice joints were crimped, soldered and heat-shrinkable tubing used to insulate

Locate each wire\pin at the connector, noting the color, then pull that wire away from the main harness, noting which wire moves in the main harness, trace it back to where you want to splice it - terminate both ends B4 proceeding to the next cut\splice

After each wire is cut\separated, the end toward the connectors is ECM, as ECM EGR or ECM AFC - the other end, toward the engine, is the device, as EGR or AFC

When reassembling the covers to the connectors, make sure the latch is fully extended and the handle is at max open travel

Tape everything back up, re-lay the harness in the tray such that all wiring beds-in and can be covered, pop the cover back on and onto the firewall studs

Position the ECM harness to connect C2 first by pushing C2 into position, keeping C1 harness back against the fender\firewall - push C2 squarely into it's nest, push the handle down - movement should be firm, but not difficult as connector seats

Now carefully feed C1 harness down in behind C2 harness - it'll fit, it was there when you started this gig - insert C1 into nest, pull the handle up as the connector seats

Connect 9-wire harness connector to the black box, crank it up, and yer good to go

Scott Langohr · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2007 8:45 am

One question for you guys that have completed the install:
If we already know the color of the wire we are looking for by previous posts and we know the pin position of the wire in the C1 and C2 plug body, why do we need to disassemble the plug and remove the tape back from the wire bundle? Couldn't we simply insert our continuity probe in the proper pin number in the plug and look for the proper color wires in the firewall chase and double check by testing the continuity of the wire? The only reason I can see to unplug C1 & C2 is to verify the proper wire color in the respective pin locations. I believe, thanks to all of you guys, that we know the color of the wires to look for in the firewall chase. Those of you that have done this a couple of times and can recognize the wire colors by site should be able to make the splices without unpluging the C1 and C2 plugs at all. Those of us that have not completed the first install must verify the correct wire to splice for sure but I see no reason that can't be done from the open ended plug body. What am I missing?

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2007 8:59 am

Diff'rent strokes for different folks, is the name of that tune - some folks don't even need pics and instructions - some as do.................

Hoosierdaddy · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2007 9:22 am

THANK YOU GMCTD!!!! The pics give me the info to proceed with confidence.
Dean

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2007 9:52 am

No prob - btw, that's a yes, Scott - if you're familiar with dvm's and dom's, lites and buzzers, that would be the easiest method - some methodology is required, however, as the bundle serves several different circuits, but using the same color wires - 'nuther words, don't assume that dkblu\grn str wire is the one you need without verifying termination, either at the connector or the device - so, go fer it..................

dgeist · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2007 10:31 am

Scott Langohr wrote:

One question for you guys that have completed the install:
If we already know the color of the wire we are looking for by previous posts and we know the pin position of the wire in the C1 and C2 plug body, why do we need to disassemble the plug and remove the tape back from the wire bundle? Couldn't we simply insert our continuity probe in the proper pin number in the plug and look for the proper color wires in the firewall chase and double check by testing the continuity of the wire? The only reason I can see to unplug C1 & C2 is to verify the proper wire color in the respective pin locations. I believe, thanks to all of you guys, that we know the color of the wires to look for in the firewall chase. Those of you that have done this a couple of times and can recognize the wire colors by site should be able to make the splices without unpluging the C1 and C2 plugs at all. Those of us that have not completed the first install must verify the correct wire to splice for sure but I see no reason that can't be done from the open ended plug body. What am I missing?

If you want to do use a pin probe to do it that way, that's completely your prerogative, and it'll probably work. The potential problems are with environmental contaminants getting into the wires that you test that aren't the right ones and also current flowing into sensitive electronic components. Ultimately, I think the un-wrap method is messier and more time-consuming, but safer.

Dan

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2007 11:08 am

Well, since I gave'im the thumbs-up, guess I oughtta give'im the cure - RTV, in yer fav color, gray or black, will seal any exploratory probing amongst the wiring bundles

I normally splice, crimp, solder, then heat-shrink over a coat of RTV to get the mfp result, but it was dark-thirty, chilly, and the mosquitoes were very pesky, so it got the fair-weather job, counting on the resin-core flux to seal off the joints inside the 'shrink - plus, the tin offers a certain resistance to oxidation.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2007 1:48 pm

I know some of the silicone sealants (home style, for sinks, tubs, windows, etc) use acetic acid as a solvent - you'd want to avoid those as they may start a corrosive process inside the wrap/seal that would eventually cause problems. So the ones to use would have something else as solvent that will cure without leaving a problem behind...

Do you have a favorite RTV?

Thx,

Mark
-

gmctd wrote:

Well, since I gave'im the thumbs-up, guess I oughtta give'im the cure - RTV, in yer fav color, gray or black, will seal any exploratory probing amongst the wiring bundles

I normally splice, crimp, solder, then heat-shrink over a coat of RTV to get the mfp result, but it was dark-thirty, chilly, and the mosquitoes were very pesky, so it got the fair-weather job, counting on the resin-core flux to seal off the joints inside the 'shrink - plus, the tin offers a certain resistance to oxidation.

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2007 1:52 pm

Permatex in the gray sensor-safe blend, or black oil-resistant if that's at hand - the 25yr house stuff at yer local home-repair emporium is the type to avoid for auto and electronic work

dgeist · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2007 2:38 pm

gmctd wrote:

Permatex in the gray sensor-safe blend, or black oil-resistant if that's at hand - the 25yr house stuff at yer local home-repair emporium is the type to avoid for auto and electronic work

I think food-safe/aquarium-sealant is lacking the acetic acid as well. It also takes a bit longer to cure... and is more expensive than decent RTV.

Bill.Barg · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2007 4:12 pm

Scott,

I used a piece of the resitor wire trimmed off the board to probe inside the C1 and C2 connectors.
On the other side (in the harness), I used a sharp miniature screwdriver to push into the wire in question and then checked continuity.

I did not dissasemble the connector.

Scott Langohr · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2007 5:21 pm

Bill,

Was it tough to locate the proper wire by color? Others have posted that the same color wires are used for other things and are also located in the firewall channel. Did you find this to be the case or was it more a matter of matching the color names to real wires. The color picture posts of the wires should be a real help. I would like to do it in a way that disturbs the factory job the least. It just seams your way would do that. It was suggested that I use the proper silicone to reseal the holes made to test the continuity on the right and wrong choices. That makes sense. I think I will try it your way.

Scott

Bill.Barg · **Posted:** Fri Nov 30, 2007 7:10 pm

No it was not hard. There are dupicate ground and power wires, but no duplicate colour signal wires, that I could fine.

The screw driver I used to pierce the wire is really tiny, more like a needle than a driver. The hole it leaes in the wire insulation is tiny... Anyway, I typically made the splices at the test points anyway!

SBrooks · **Joined:** Sun Sep 17, 2006 7:30 pm **Posts:** 85

Hi folks,
This is my first post to this website. LOTS of good info here. Looked around and saw this thread, and immediately thought it's something to get in on. Sorry to have to revisit "old" info, but I'd like to know:

1. How to go about getting a completed box, and

2. See who lives relatively close to the Clovis NM area, so I can maybe see a completed job.

Thanks in advance for the help!

Steve

gmctd · **Posted:** Sat Dec 01, 2007 10:05 pm

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=22498

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=26372

UFO · **Posted:** Sun Dec 02, 2007 3:35 pm

For those who wish to be able to restore EGR function (for those perilous visits to the stealership, here are the part numbers for the jumper plug. I've assumed everyone has built their box with the female contacts in the harness and the male contacts in the box - I don't think it can be built the other way, but just in case, make sure it is. All the kits I built used the male contacts to fit the box connector.

Order them from Digikey.com:

Connector housing A1352-ND (Tyco/AMP 206705-2)
Pack of ten male pins A31998-ND (Tyco/AMP 1-66361-2)

SEGR/ORM Kit Builder's Thread

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