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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 4:24 pm 
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Good question posted there dgeist...

Another note...I know it doesn't seem like much material but if I were to order a bumber without the stinger bar and with 2 of the 4 light holes "plugged" would there be an adjusted price at all?? Just curious....saving all the pennies and nickels I can find to get this thing before the deadline....

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 4:40 pm 
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ryno wrote:
501 wrote:
ryno wrote:
Sorry to burst your bubble, guys, but $300 is the COST to make a bumper, not the price he's selling them for. The PRICE of the bumper is $650 ($725 if you want it painted). It can't be good for sales when everyone thinks something costs less than half as much as it really does... Unless everyone is paying with a credit card. :twisted: :lol:


JHCRASH wrote:
the weight is about 125 or so. It uses the holes existing on the bottom of the unibody (there are three) and you have to drill two holes on the top. As for the 02-04 I am trying to find some one local that wants one at cost($300) to let us fit them up so we know what to change as soon as this happens we will be good to go. So local boys chime in or even colorado boys that want to spend a weekend in utah chime in.


No bubble busrting here, I was refering to his offer for a local guy to test it, just letting him know that I'll test it for him on this side of the US if he'd like.


Gotcha. I guess that's what I get for skimming... And in that case, sign me up! I'm about 75 miles from Tooele. Too bad my KJ is about 1,075 miles from Tooele. :lol: I'm a car-less BYU freshman right now.



That's so sad. maybe I have to pick you up and take you wheelin', that's if you can Aggie graduate students.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:03 pm 
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That thing makes me wish I still had my KJ. Nice job.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 10:54 pm 
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Crusader: I can definately come up with something as a bolt on.If you had a bolt on mounting plate would you want the reciever point at all. I could make a plate that dropped down the front like the liscence plate mount that did a double duty that would finish very nicely.Without the reciever.Or if you would want the reciever I can come up with something as well.

Dgeist:I could change the stinger angle if you so wanted that is not a huge deal.There is mounting slop to help with line up.and when you tighten it all down things squeeze together so yes it is pretty easily adartable for different circumstances.And to answer another question that might come up the brackets are designed to give in an accident to an extent,Just like the big boys(arb,road armor)however the mounts do not infringe on their design.


KJSport: Yes I have decided if people chose to go without the stinger or other options I will go $600 for the initial buy in price this will also affect the price after the initial buy in is over.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 12:29 am 
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What a great looking bumper. The only reason I would want the winch higher and closer to the body is to not infringe on approach angle. If the winch is low and sticking way out in front, then that could really reduce approach angle.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 11:00 am 
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JHCRASH wrote:
Crusader: I can definately come up with something as a bolt on.If you had a bolt on mounting plate would you want the reciever point at all. I could make a plate that dropped down the front like the liscence plate mount that did a double duty that would finish very nicely.Without the reciever.Or if you would want the reciever I can come up with something as well.


Here's an easy way to accommodate the top-mount winch and not fundamentally affect the overal design: Take the existing license-plate mount:Image and extend it with a horizontal component with warn/etc. mounting holes and a plate mount for a fairlead. Then include 2 or 3 threaded bungs in the horizontal plane of the main bumper in the middle flush to the surface (plug-able when not in use). that would leave the 2" receiver to take the majority of the load for the plate/winch subframe but still keep things from being susceptible to torsional stresses be being bolted down to the top of the bumper. It can also be sold separately since it'd be the same base unit and the bungs could provide connectivity for a little sub-frame for floods, etc. The options are open.

Dan

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 11:36 am 
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dgeist wrote:
JHCRASH wrote:
Crusader: I can definately come up with something as a bolt on.If you had a bolt on mounting plate would you want the reciever point at all. I could make a plate that dropped down the front like the liscence plate mount that did a double duty that would finish very nicely.Without the reciever.Or if you would want the reciever I can come up with something as well.


Here's an easy way to accommodate the top-mount winch and not fundamentally affect the overal design: Take the existing license-plate mount:Image and extend it with a horizontal component with warn/etc. mounting holes and a plate mount for a fairlead. Then include 2 or 3 threaded bungs in the horizontal plane of the main bumper in the middle flush to the surface (plug-able when not in use). that would leave the 2" receiver to take the majority of the load for the plate/winch subframe but still keep things from being susceptible to torsional stresses be being bolted down to the top of the bumper. It can also be sold separately since it'd be the same base unit and the bungs could provide connectivity for a little sub-frame for floods, etc. The options are open.

Dan


That is pretty much what I was thinking of doing, it would be fairly easy to do.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 11:49 am 
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JHCRASH wrote:
dgeist wrote:
Here's an easy way to accommodate the top-mount winch and not fundamentally affect the overal design: Take the existing license-plate mount and extend it with a horizontal component with warn/etc. mounting holes and a plate mount for a fairlead. Then include 2 or 3 threaded bungs in the horizontal plane of the main bumper in the middle flush to the surface (plug-able when not in use). that would leave the 2" receiver to take the majority of the load for the plate/winch subframe but still keep things from being susceptible to torsional stresses be being bolted down to the top of the bumper. It can also be sold separately since it'd be the same base unit and the bungs could provide connectivity for a little sub-frame for floods, etc. The options are open.

Dan


That is pretty much what I was thinking of doing, it would be fairly easy to do.


Sweet. I look forward to a mock-up and the "pull yourself out of a ditch" test. Think the existing frame will support it okay?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 11:54 am 
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If you can make that stinger into more of a bull bar (more vertical) I am likely into your initial buy but not until after the first of the year. I do want to find out the weight first though. Can you get it painted in Light Khaki?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 12:02 pm 
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dgeist:Ya it will ,Idont think doing it that way should change to much strength wise.


cowcatcher:Ya I can paint it what ever color is wanted you just need to get me the paint code from your jeep.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 1:13 pm 
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ok someone is going to have to make up some kind of drawing for what this winh adapter wopuld look like because im not getting how everyone is explaining this at all.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 1:34 pm 
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I like the stinger bar as is...How far is SLC from Phoenix????

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 1:39 pm 
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JHCRASH wrote:
cowcatcher:Ya I can paint it what ever color is wanted you just need to get me the paint code from your jeep.


So....if some old arthritic guy from Spokane were to drive to Salt Lake or Toole in say April, could they get a factory install?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 2:30 pm 
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lmao. I take it you dont want to install it

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 2:31 pm 
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Hmm, I wonder why April too... April...Utah...April...Utah... Nope, can't figure it out. :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 2:55 pm 
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Quote:
some old arthritic guy
:lol: :cry: :lol: :cry: :lol: :cry:

Not sure how well I can handle 125 lbs on my back unless she.......oh, family site, won't go there.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 12:18 am 
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co Crusader: I will mock something up so you can see it right on the bumper.


broncsrule: ?bareback rider? Anyway I cant remember its been a couple years since i have made that trip. I guess i couold quit being lazy and look in an atlas thats ten feet away,656 mi. you will have to do the math I dont know how fast you drive. For me thats like 10min.

cowcatcher:Absolutely I would love to.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 12:27 am 
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JHCRASH wrote:
co Crusader: I will mock something up so you can see it right on the bumper.


broncsrule: ?bareback rider? Anyway I cant remember its been a couple years since i have made that trip. I guess i couold quit being lazy and look in an atlas thats ten feet away,656 mi. you will have to do the math I dont know how fast you drive. For me thats like 10min.

cowcatcher:Absolutely I would love to.


Well heck if thats the case I might make a lil trip up to SLC :) so you can help fix mine....

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 12:30 am 
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0311_DoC wrote:
JHCRASH wrote:
co Crusader: I will mock something up so you can see it right on the bumper.


broncsrule: ?bareback rider? Anyway I cant remember its been a couple years since i have made that trip. I guess i couold quit being lazy and look in an atlas thats ten feet away,656 mi. you will have to do the math I dont know how fast you drive. For me thats like 10min.

cowcatcher:Absolutely I would love to.


Well heck if thats the case I might make a lil trip up to SLC :) so you can help fix mine....

Well drive fast and come on up.

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Life changes with kids,make sure it is for the best.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 12:41 am 
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broncsrule wrote:
I like the stinger bar as is...How far is SLC from Phoenix????

I can get From Draper (south end of SLC) to Phoenix in about 10 hours if I don't stop for lunch. So figure about 10 1/2 hours from Phoenix to Tooele.

Or...8 hours to Moab and then 3 1/2 hours to SLC. :)


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