It just qiut and wont start again

Herk · **Posted:** Sun Dec 02, 2007 9:06 pm

I have a buddy who went out to start the lib in the morning and after it idled for about 5 mins then it died. He was not able to start it again and its been at the dealership for 4 days with no response. Any input would be great? :?:

Thanks

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sun Dec 02, 2007 9:16 pm

Gelled fuel??

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sun Dec 02, 2007 9:47 pm

How cold is December in Alaska?

I'm with BlackLibertyCRD - something in the fuel - either water or the fuel itself.

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 02, 2007 10:31 pm

Could also be an air problem.

skywarn · **Posted:** Mon Dec 03, 2007 12:29 am

need more info...

does it turn over?
studder?
nothing?

im thinking air as well... at least its a good place (cheep) to start!

Herk · **Posted:** Mon Dec 03, 2007 2:04 am

I was thinking air as well, the temps were not that bad 20F. It turns over just no light off.

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Mon Dec 03, 2007 10:40 am

Fuel ... Air ... Bad Glow Plugs

Bill.Barg · **Posted:** Mon Dec 03, 2007 10:46 am

More of a long shot. I remember a post not long ago about the security feature of the key system. If a key that is not programmed correctly is used to start the car, a couple minutes later, the car will be disabled.

litton · **Posted:** Mon Dec 03, 2007 10:59 am

Bill.Barg wrote:

More of a long shot. I remember a post not long ago about the security feature of the key system. If a key that is not programmed correctly is used to start the car, a couple minutes later, the car will be disabled.

Put this one high on your list. That is exactly how the security system works....start and runs for a few seconds then dies.

click23 · **Joined:** Thu May 11, 2006 9:22 am **Posts:** 309

I'm the one that had the wrong key, but it only ran for a few seconds before it cut off. You could be a few miles down the road at 70 mph if it killed itself after 5 minutes. And I was able to restart it.

gmctd · **Posted:** Mon Dec 03, 2007 2:36 pm

Open the bleeder, pump the primer - if no fuel, it's gelled or\and the filter is plugged - if good fuel there, check cranking speed - if cranking is good, check for power on the FQS solenoid, should slightly click to full-open at key-on - if all ok, feed the turbo inlet with a good hair dryer, set to high heat - that should give you at least 80deg intake air from 20deg ambient.

BiodieselJeep.com · **Posted:** Mon Dec 03, 2007 2:46 pm

ditto what gmtctd said. Air in line = 5 minutes then dies (no fuel)

air-leaks in fuel filter (Known issue) + colder/thicker fuel + vacuum design = big air bubble.

Pump the air out, start her up. Check fuel heater plug on the filter head (see the thread) for shorts and leaks.

Herk · **Posted:** Sun Dec 09, 2007 7:27 pm

Well the dealer came back in a week and said it was the fuel pump (gear pump side not the high pressure) its covered by the warranty. Is this common? I have not heard any one report this before.

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 09, 2007 9:45 pm

Not common, but you're not the first either.

drharv · **Posted:** Mon Dec 10, 2007 12:09 pm

I think I was one of the first failures....it was blamed on an non OEM fuel filter. As far as I know the low pressure (gear) pump on the Bosch CP3 cannot be replaced as a separate part. At least it could not in June when my IP puked. Also there are no facilities to test the IP that I know of in Canada or the States. The IP gurus that I spoke with said that Bosch has not released the test parameters for this pump nor have the test "bed" mnufacturers offered a drive for spinning this wee pump.

I still a have an untested failed CP3 sitting on the bench in my garage waiting for the day when it can be tested and repaired. The dealer will replace the IP in its entirety and send back the old one to Chrysler. Because mine was not warranteed I was able to keep it.

It just qiut and wont start again

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