Torque converters, trannys, and F37....OH MY!

chadhargis · **Posted:** Mon Dec 03, 2007 12:31 pm

Well, today is supposed to be the big day.

Service guy told me that Chrysler authorized a new pump, new clutches, and yet another torque converter as the first one they put in was, "the wrong part".....humm.....that's interesting.

Makes me wonder if Chrysler has figured out that the little torque monster needs a more stout torque converter.

With all the work I'm having done on the tranny, I'm glad I'm not fitting the bill for it. Can anyone reccomend a good extended warranty? How much do they cost?

chadhargis · **Posted:** Tue Dec 04, 2007 8:31 pm

Well...the saga continues. I called the shop Monday, and they said they were still waiting for the new pump. I checked with them today, and they said all the parts were in and the tranny was back together but the problem still existed.

One thing I can say is that they are being very persistent with it. So far they have replaced the torque converter (twice), the clutches, and the pump. The service guy told me that it may be a bad TCM, so I think that's where they are heading now. They've tried re-flashing it with the F37.

So far I'm very impressed with the dealer's service. I feel like they are doing everything they can to fix the issue.

Bill.Barg · **Posted:** Tue Dec 04, 2007 9:50 pm

chadhargis wrote:

With all the work I'm having done on the tranny, I'm glad I'm not fitting the bill for it. Can anyone reccomend a good extended warranty? How much do they cost?

Some results of online searching

Maximum Care $100 Deductible, 5 years / 70,000 miles [Under 48,000 total miles and in-service Less than 48 months] Price includes extra charge for 4x4 and DIESEL !!

Maximum Care Added Care
www.eservicecontracts.com $1295 $1095
www.chryslerwarrantys.com $1445 $1240 ** note possible 180 discount with onlinecode 33633

I got the Maximum care with $180 discount from www.chryslerwarrantys.com
(fringe benefit is free rental car during maintanence visits!)

see
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... ht=#241692

valoflyby · **Posted:** Wed Dec 05, 2007 10:18 am

chadhargis wrote:

Well...the saga continues. I called the shop Monday, and they said they were still waiting for the new pump. I checked with them today, and they said all the parts were in and the tranny was back together but the problem still existed.

One thing I can say is that they are being very persistent with it. So far they have replaced the torque converter (twice), the clutches, and the pump. The service guy told me that it may be a bad TCM, so I think that's where they are heading now. They've tried re-flashing it with the F37.

So far I'm very impressed with the dealer's service. I feel like they are doing everything they can to fix the issue.

FWIW, Chad... I tried to have the F37 done nearly a year ago. I had scheduled an appointment and had dropped the Jeep off @ the dealership the night before. The service manager called me to tell me that although they had been shipped TCs w/ new part numbers on the box... when they opened the boxes, the TCs were the exact same as the ones that were installed @ the factory... Line of bull to get out of doing the work? Maybe... which is what I thought @ the time... but listening to your story here makes me wonder now.

chadhargis · **Posted:** Wed Dec 05, 2007 12:18 pm

You may be right, but I've had an opportunity to talk to the tech and the service manager, and both of them seem to be honest. The service manager has done a great job of communicating with me and letting me know what's going on. Also, when they replaced the torque converter, I could tell a BIG difference in drivability. Power delivery wasn't as "soft" as it was before, or course that could be due to some fresh fluid, who knows? My CRD only has about 22,000 miles on it, so you wouldn't figure it would be worn out.

I'm hoping to hear from the service manager today. The only thing that I'm starting to get sick of is having to bum rides. I hate being without a car. At $35 a day, a rental would be bleeding me dry and the dealership said unless you have an extended warranty, they don't furnish a car for you. I really wish they would make an exception, but being in the service industry myself, I understand why the rules are there and I understand that everyone thinks they are special.

I've really resisted the temptation to print off all the material from here and take it to them. Like I said, I'm in a similar position, just a different industry and I HATE when people try to tell me how to do my job. They are the experts, I'll let them figure it out.

gmctd · **Posted:** Wed Dec 05, 2007 12:52 pm

Experts are not born, as is, but rather created out of inquisitiveness.......or hunger.

Take 'em the info from here, as empirical fix-ative information with established positive results - shame on them if they choose to file-13 it

Altho, I do notice you got everything to increase engine output, but no auxilliary lift pump - might wanna give that a shot, also - easy to hook up a temporary Facet at the fuel manager head, coupla hose clamps and a jumper to the battery + post - just as easily removeable

chadhargis · **Posted:** Wed Dec 05, 2007 1:29 pm

The fuel pump is something that is a little out of my realm of comfort. I'm sure I could mess around with it and get it working, but the CRD is my daily driver and I can ill afford to experiment on it. I did the Provent since there isn't any way it can cause a failure. Same with the other mods. But messing with fuel delivery can leave me on the side of the road if I don't do it just right.

Now, if someone wants to give me a hand, then I'd be more than happy to give it a shot. I learn by doing.

gmctd · **Posted:** Wed Dec 05, 2007 2:10 pm

Quick walk-thru for a quick safe test -

- get a 40106, -107, or -109 Facet lift pump - appropriate fittings, hose stubs and clamps come in the package

- assemble the two fittings to the pump, also placing one hose stub and two clamps on the OUTLET side fitting, tighten the clamp nearest the pump body

- unclamp and remove the rubber hose from the inlet fitting on the fuel manager head - that's the one closest to the engine

- push that hose onto the Facet pump INLET fitting , tighten the hose clamp

- push the OUTLET hose on the Facet pump onto the inlet fitting on the fuel manager head, tighten the clamp

- run a black wire from the Facet to the negative battery terminal

- run a red wire from the Facet to the positive battery terminal

- the Facet should start thumping, and the sound will quieten and slow down as the Facet builds head pressure

- crack the bleeder till pure fuel seeps out, eliminating all air in the head, tighten the bleeder.

- make sure everything is secure - the hose clamps will hold the Facet - tape or tywrap the wires - take it for a spin, see what transpires

- if it helps, rewire it to the oem factory-installed lift pump circuitry in the underhood fuse center.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Wed Dec 05, 2007 2:23 pm

Direct to battery is a good way to bleed the system and verify you've got it hooked up right
but personally I'd add an on/off switch and an inline fuse somewhere in the circuit before you try a test drive.

gmctd · **Posted:** Wed Dec 05, 2007 2:31 pm

True - I wouldn't wish an accident on ya, but it is possible, so a switch, 5a fuse\holder and some wire-nuts from 'shack would be infinitely safer

chadhargis · **Posted:** Wed Dec 05, 2007 2:58 pm

At this point, I'd settle for a CRD that doesn't have a pooched transmission.

Those of you who are quite knowledable need to put together some step-by-step "how to" guides complete with pictures, model numbers, where to buy, cost, etc.

Nothing pisses me off more and makes me drop a project like a hot rock than about 10 trips back and forth to buy parts and crap. If I start the project with all the parts and pieces I need, have directions to do it, and a few pictures to guide me, I can do just about anything.

yakers · **Posted:** Wed Dec 05, 2007 5:41 pm

I want to avoid or defer AT problems as much as possible. I picked up n 06 CRD about a month ago now has 21K miles. Had the F37 service and the Jeep web site shows no outstanding recalls. I expect to tow a travel trailer which will probably be 3,500 lbs loaded. Of course it will have trailer brakes. What can I do to prolong AT life? Use synthetic ATF? An additional oil cooler? (The ORM should lower radiator cooling requirement. Would it make any difference in the load on the AT to tow in AWD on regular roads? There is an AT temp sensor, do I just pull over if it comes on? How about speed, is there a lot more strain over 55 MPH?

I bought the CRD specifically to tow this camper so I want to make sure I have the best set up. Still have 11K miles on warranty. Want it to break by then or run forever.

chadhargis · **Posted:** Wed Dec 05, 2007 5:56 pm

Here's the post mortem on my tranny issues:

The service manager was very nice. He explained to me what they did, and said that it looked like Chrysler had superceeded the torque converter part number with another, which I believe has already been mentioned on this board. I believe he said the pump was a different part too. They also replaced the valve body, which I don't recall anyone here ever having done.

I road tested it, and it's PERFECT! Shifts great, and no more shudder!!!! YEAH!!

gmctd · **Posted:** Wed Dec 05, 2007 6:20 pm

Water in the valve body must have been evidenced by rust\corrosion\oxidation, which would cause delayed\incomplete reaction\response to apply\release commands - that could make the EMCC apply function even worse, where the TCM is trying to soft-pedal the weak TCC as power is applied

Good deal on the fix, tho they didn't replace any clutches butcept the one in the t\c - would guess the fluid quality tole them clutches weren't needed at this time

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Wed Dec 05, 2007 7:31 pm

yakers
I don't tow - however several folks on the forum do - and normally the CRD does very well (even beyond the 5000lb recommended tow rating) - it should tow well - and as a precaution I'd add a Transmission cooler and the standard ATF +4 fluid is synthetic.

That said - if you have a problem - towing is when it will show up because you're pushing everything harder than normal.
So pay attention to stuttering, temps issues - ect.

For at least 15K more miles (36 total) you have factory warranty - if you have problems try to get the dealer to address it (and try to find a dealer that works on Diesels)

onthehunt · **Posted:** Wed Dec 05, 2007 8:51 pm

My take is they didn't know what was wrong with it but had a good idea. They knew something was wrong with it so they made up the water story so warranty would cover it and threw parts into it. Whatever works. Warranty work sucks.

greiswig · **Posted:** Wed Dec 05, 2007 10:56 pm

My 2005 has not had any work done on the transmission, although I suspect that it did get the TCM reflashed during one dealer visit. At the time, I hesitated to get the TC replaced, etc., pending the reports of other people who had it done. I'm curious: how many of you that have had it done have had subsequent performance or parts issues afterward? Now that they appear to be actually using different part numbers, I wonder if having F37 done might actually make the vehicle more reliable?

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Dec 06, 2007 12:11 am

I don't know about "shuddering" but I now have a noise issue on mine. When in 4wd Full Time (AWD) mode, and anywhere below TC lockup, there is a clicking chirping kinda noise that comes and goes, but is specifically able to be caused by lifting off the gas to coast for a bit, then re-applying power. Not hard at all, just a gentle re-press of the pedal causes the noise.

I'm going back to Mopar tomorrow as they also didn't fix the remote starter issue yet, it still sets the alarm off randomly, and I don't know why.

Thoughts on my noise? Is it the TC?

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Dec 06, 2007 12:23 am

If it doesn't chirp in 2wd then it's likely transfer case or front axle related, maybe even in the shifter\linkage

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Dec 06, 2007 1:20 am

I was wondering about that too. I've got to try and reproduce it in 2wd, now that I know it's there. I usually drive in 2wd and haven't been driving the KJ like I drove my Jetta (like I stole it, foot to the floor most times) b/c I'm trying to see what the "best" mileage it is capable of. Also 3.55 per gallon for dino diesel sucks. But tonight I was in a bit of a hurry, and 2wd just wasn't feeling like the power was getting to the road (tach running up to 2500 before it really felt like it was moving, and NEVER pulled like the Jetta could) so I popped it into 4wd so I could at least get some of the "pulls like a train" feeling. Thats when I started noticing the noise.

Torque converters, trannys, and F37....OH MY!

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